Before 540 stroker 1st start

[ronw]

Getting close to the first start! Coming to the part of what oil to use? There is so much being said about high zinc content. What is everyone using? And when to change the oil after break-in? I kinda hate that phase (Break-in) until all goes well. Thanks Ron

 

[jockeyshift]

I use BRAD PENN BREAK IN OIL. After 30 min breakin I dump it refill with brad penn straight 30 fall or 40 summer here in NJ MY 2 cents

 

[Phreakish]

The oil is as important as the lube you put on the cam. High zinc oil is no replacement for proper cam break-in lube. I might be stating the obvious, but some folks think high zinc negates the need for break-in lube or forget to grease up that cam real nice before hand.

 

[jockeyshift]

If its a roller cam do still need to lube it

 

[daveakre]

There's no special break-in procedure for roller cams. The only thing to break in on a roller motor is the rings, and from what I understand, you want to get a load on the motor as soon as possible to set the rings right.

 

[DesertRat]

I do not have a roller cam but I used Royal Purple break-in oil with a pint of zinc break-in additive for the initial start and break-in run. Then I changed the oil and fuel filters and proceeded to tune the carburetor and timing with the break-in oil still in the engine adding another pint of zinc additive. So far, so good!
DR--------------

 

[justinp61]

Ron most cam manufactures recommend removing the inner springs if you have doubles for break in. IMO, one of the most important parts of new cam break in is the engine starting with out much cranking.

I second Brad Penn break in oil.

 

[Lustle]

Cam lube/assembly lube is always important. Then fill it with break in oil. One does not replace the other. They work together. I'm not sure it REALLY matters WHO's oil it is. As long as it has the zinc additive. Firing up on first crank is most important. Otherwise all that assembly lube is wasted. Run at VARYING high rpm (over 2500) for 20-30 minutes. Then shut down. Drain oil. Replace with whatever you run (i run a 10w30 high performance with zinc additive oil).

Drive and enjoy!

 

[ronw]

Cam lube/assembly lube is always important. Then fill it with break in oil. One does not replace the other. They work together. I'm not sure it REALLY matters WHO's oil it is. As long as it has the zinc additive. Firing up on first crank is most important. Otherwise all that assembly lube is wasted. Run at VARYING high rpm (over 2500) for 20-30 minutes. Then shut down. Drain oil. Replace with whatever you run (i run a 10w30 high performance with zinc additive oil).

Drive and enjoy!

Thanks Guys, I would never of thought of removing the inner valve spring. Sounds like a lot of extra work but all worth the trouble. I have decided on Brad Penn and a pt of Zinc additive.