Bellhousing

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cuda620

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Can anyone tell me. Does it really matter with the bellhousing used to put a 4 speed in a 67A body if I’m not trying to be year exact? Thanks
 
It really makes no difference as long as you get all of the correct pieces.
 
Such as? I gotta piece this together or stay with 727. Thanks
 
Can anyone tell me. Does it really matter with the bellhousing used to put a 4 speed in a 67A body if I’m not trying to be year exact? Thanks

There's the obvious big block small block thing, using the correct transmission opening size unit and then verifying that the face of the bellhousing that the transmission bolts to is centered with the crank centerline and also square with the crank centerline.

Of course, if you intend on high performance usage, consider a scatter shield instead.

ps verify that your crank is drilled deep enough for the input shaft to clear.
 
There's the obvious big block small block thing, using the correct transmission opening size unit and then verifying that the face of the bellhousing that the transmission bolts to is centered with the crank centerline and also square with the crank centerline.

Of course, if you intend on high performance usage, consider a scatter shield instead.

ps verify that your crank is drilled deep enough for the input shaft to clear.
Thanks
 
Major considerations:
You do not want a van/ pickup bell which uses a larger flywheel
You need to be careful some years are 3 speed or 4 speed only. A few bells have dual bolt patterns The center hole can be larger / smaller depending on what transmission, and that includes the overdriven A833
Earlier 273 bells only accept small clutches
The ball pivot mount for the Z bar and so on is different through the years, and you can get into a geometry nightmare to get the linkage "right"
Consider using a hydraulic clutch setup
 
I may consider or create a hydraulic setup. It may eliminate problem. Wanting just to convert mu barracuda to a 4 or 5 speed and not blow 6k or more. Cranks drilled. Thanks
 
Of course, if you intend on high performance usage, consider a scatter shield instead.
All good advice, especially this part. If this is a mild 318 that never sees over 5000 rpm, and normal "black & round" street tires, your feet will probably be OK.
But I second the motion that you use a scattershield for anything hotter... I'm sure lots of people will say "I never had a problem with my *** combo", but it only takes one flywheel/clutch explosion to ruin your whole day.
 
One more thing;
Have you considered your slowest driving speed with a 4-speed?
Typically; with a 2.66low, and 25.5 tall tires, and 3.23s; your slowest speed (not toeing the clutch) is 700rpm=6.2 mph/ 650=5.75mph
Parades are done at ~3.5 mph or less because that is an easy walk for participants. Trying to drive at 3mph with a clutch is a real challenge. With 3.23s this comes to about 320 rpm with 3.55s and 27" tires, in the regular A833 with a 2.66 low gear. Yeah/no, that ain't gonna happen.
The closest I got was 4mph = 550 rpm with 27s, 3.55s, and the Commando box with it's 3.09 low gear. For parades I got 4.88s or 4.30s.
With 4.30s; 3.5mph is 580rpm, still a stretch for a 230* cammmed 367 . But with a diaphragm clutch and 340 pedals, it is just doable, so long as your cooling system is adequate and the cam lobes get oiled.

There are two pedal ratios; one for slantys and another for 340s and everything else, which I will call the 340 pedals. IDK what ratio the 318s got.
If you try to use the slanty pedals on a B&B HPclutch, you will need a stout left leg. But it seems to work ok with a diaphragm clutch.
But, at 5* Idle-Timing, and with 340 pedals, and a diaphragm clutch, then you will have a very nice time modulating your take off, especially with a 3.09 low gear.
And parading, if not easy, is at least doable.

Ok so what I'm saying is that; if operation at slow speeds is important to you, then it is VERY important which transmission, and which pedals, and which rear end ratio, you use. Don't be like me; I got a pretty good selection of obsolete stuff on my shelves that didn't work out for me.

My Commando guts came from a 64 which had a tri-pot driveshaft.IDK if the Commando ever came with a slip-yoke. In any case, I had to supply a used mainshaft and the appropriate tail house to make it work in the 67 and up cars. For me that was not a big deal, cuz I already had a collection of blown up boxes to steal parts from to make it work.

I used a B/E body tail, which is the same length as the 727. But I had buckets and moved the shifter back about 6 or more inches. This required the fabrication of a new adapter-plate and longer shift rods. Since you do not yet have a floor hump, this could be ideal for you. You will still have to cut open the floor to make room for the shiftrods,but you can patch that without a hump. You will never again smash your knuckles into the dash on the 2-3 shift.

Happy HotRodding
 
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Can anyone tell me. Does it really matter with the bellhousing used to put a 4 speed in a 67A body if I’m not trying to be year exact? Thanks

67 to 76 A body 4 speed conversions are pretty easy. If you are lucky it will cost you about $3,000 for factory setup including a rebuilt trans by the time you add in a 4 speed shifter, clutch pedals plus linkage, and trans tunnel. You will also need a longer driveshaft. Pick or find a 10.5 A body bell housing and match the components from there.

Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists

You can do it cheaper, but the process is the same. Good luck.
 
You are in for an education, hang in there, get the correct ball pivot for the same bellhousing .
 
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