best shifter

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dustertogo said:
Sorry to disagree, but I have a Super Shifter (I know this for a fact) in my '73 340 Duster, and absolutely no modifications were done to install it. The newer Super Shifters may be different, but mine is 33 years old.
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You have a Supershifter 2. Later it became the Street Supershifter. That is a street shifter, that doesn't require any modification to mount. The rods are straight for forward gears, but they are not horizontal like a Supershifter. To install a Supershifter, which is a race shifter, you must cut the back of the hump off and remove it so you can mount the large "L" shaped bracket that the shifter mounts on. This raises the shifter up and INTO the interior of the car. This allows the rods to not only be straight, but they are completely horizontal as well. These shifters have the levers that the rods attach to all the same length. I have a 33 year old Hurst catalog in my hands, and it shows the street version. The difference between the Supershifter 2 and the comp+ is the Supershifter 2 ( like the original race Supershifter) has further heat treated parts with reinforced rods, built in reverse lockout (unlike the old Supershifter), and a narrower neutral gate for easier/faster 2nd/3rd shifts.
 
Outsider said:
You have a Supershifter 2. Later it became the Street Supershifter. That is a street shifter, that doesn't require any modification to mount. The rods are straight for forward gears, but they are not horizontal like a Supershifter. To install a Supershifter, which is a race shifter, you must cut the back of the hump off and remove it so you can mount the large "L" shaped bracket that the shifter mounts on. This raises the shifter up and INTO the interior of the car. This allows the rods to not only be straight, but they are completely horizontal as well. These shifters have the levers that the rods attach to all the same length. I have a 33 year old Hurst catalog in my hands, and it shows the street version. The difference between the Supershifter 2 and the comp+ is the Supershifter 2 ( like the original race Supershifter) has further heat treated parts with reinforced rods, built in reverse lockout (unlike the old Supershifter), and a narrower neutral gate for easier/faster 2nd/3rd shifts.
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Yeah I guess I forgot that about the Supershifter. Mine is a Supershifter 2, but all I know is that it's 33 years old,still works great, and I can bang an 833 with the best of 'em.
 
dustertogo said:
Yeah I guess I forgot that about the Supershifter. Mine is a Supershifter 2, but all I know is that it's 33 years old,still works great, and I can bang an 833 with the best of 'em.
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All the Supershifters were bulletproof, and extremely fine shifters.
 
If it was my decision, and the car saw any strip action, I'd go with a street Supershifter. The straighter the linkage the less chance of binding.
 
Hey Outsider, any chance you could post up scans from that Hurst catalogue showing the differences?
 
I like my Hurst Ram Rod.

Ram Rod.jpg
 
racingsnake440 said:
Hey Outsider, any chance you could post up scans from that Hurst catalogue showing the differences?
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That catalog is from '75. I can get a scan of it tomorrow, since my scanner isn't hooked up to the computer at the moment. Unfortunately Hurst was no longer selling the Supershifter in '75, only the Supershifter 2, so they don't have any kind of comparison. The shifters available in this catalog are, Comp+, Mastershifter (3-speed), Ram 4 (the old Ram Rod), and the Supershifter 2...well the "Mini-car" Volkswagen shifter too. I'll get it up tomorrow if I can.
 
My shifter mechanism has a reverse lock out and has Hurst stamped on it.

What shifter do I have?

I have always assume it to be a Plus.

The reverse rod has a slight bend in it but the others are straight.
 
mullinax95 said:
My shifter mechanism has a reverse lock out and has Hurst stamped on it.

What shifter do I have?

I have always assume it to be a Plus.

The reverse rod has a slight bend in it but the others are straight.
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Sounds like a Street Supershifter. The rev. lockout has a red T-handle on the side?
 
When I bought my Super Shifter in the fall of 1971, I was told it wouldn't work on the street, that it was strictly for race cars. I believe it cost me about 130 dollars when you could buy a Competition Plus for less than 80.

The arms were specific to the Super Shifter and so were the rods, with the forward gear ones straight, reinforced with sleeves, and heat treated. The mounting bracket for the shifter frame consisted of two plates connected by three bolts running thru dowels to space the inner one (mounting plate) from the outer one (tower) the proper distance to allow the shift rods to run straight back horizontally in line from the shift arms on the side cover to the ones in the mechanism. This caused the shifter frame itself to end up well above the floor pan tunnel. It was my first Hurst shifter with a bolt on handle, and the only handle offered was the same short one as a Corvette.

I added a reverse lockout as soon as they became available. It cost me a little over seven dollars. It was a square shaped affair that sandwiched between the shifter frame and the tower it bolted to. You actuated it by pushing and pulling on a little red ball mounted on a fully threaded rod (crude but easy way to make it adjustable for the height of any shifter handle, with a plastic sleeve covering the threads) attached to it.

I had to cut a hole in the floor pan of my 2+2 from the front of the tunnel to just behind where the shifter frame mounted, and from the top of the tunnel all the way to the driver foot well and add a piece not unlike the factory one in a Duster or Dart. For the rear of the opening I had a box constructed by a local sheetmetal worker on his lunch hour that was just tall enough and big enough to contain the shifter frame and mount the original boot and ring. It had flanges on the bottom to attach it with sheet metal screws to the modified tunnel. I remember this box to be at least as high as the side bolster of the driver seat.

Any hopes of using a factory console were abandoned early on after I got the Super Shifter in my hands. It stayed in the car for over twenty five years and it never saw a drag strip. The wood shift knob I used in place of the white Hurst ball it came with is still on it. After I get a few other projects out of the way, I hope to install this shifter in a car I've had planned for some time now.

I don't know how long this design was used, but I have never actually seen another one like it.
 
I have a 70 Duster, original 3 speed. I put a 4 speed in it in 1973, with a super shifter. No mods were necessary. Until I trashed 2nd gear.
 
Outsider said:
Sounds like a Street Supershifter. The rev. lockout has a red T-handle on the side?
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Sorry I didn't notice your question on this thread until now. :clock:

Yes but I cut it off and used a smaller boot and round chrome ring. I just didn't like the big square boot.
 
Outsider said:
Now THAT is a Supershifter.
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If any of you guys would be willing to teach me how to get my pictures out of iphoto (Mac book Pro) and into this thread, I could show you the Super Shifter mounted to a transmission and laying on a towel with the various components spread out.
 
the hurst indy a-833 shifter is the same as a competition plus without the stops - a little time with a drill, tap and 2 nuts and bolts and you're in business
 
johnthegoalie said:
the hurst indy a-833 shifter is the same as a competition plus without the stops - a little time with a drill, tap and 2 nuts and bolts and you're in business
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The Indy shifter is NOT the same as the Comp+. It is the entry level "economy" shifter.
 
Suicidesteve said:
hey guys, i have an Inland in my 71 duster and got a hurst shifter with the car. Tryin to put it in i had to recognize that the inland rods are too short. Which rods do I need?

These for example? http://moparplus.com/product_info.php?cPath=59&products_id=101

Thanks!
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Hurst is Hurst, so it is not surprising you cannot make something else work.

For quite some time now the shifter frame has been sold separate from the installation kit.
As a result, if you have a Competition Plus shifter frame, you should be able to get the installation kit (mounting plate, rods, arms, bushings, bolts, and clips) for your particular year, make, model, transmission type, and body style, direct from Hurst (now owned by B&M in California), from one of the mail order houses (Summit, Jegs, Speedway, etc.), or your friendly local speed shop (if you have one). Just be prepared for it to cost as much or more as a new shifter frame itself.

If the shifter frame has, or is the type for a bolt on stick (virtually everything from about 1970 on, at least the aftermarket ones), and isn't the correct one for your car, it can be easily changed out for one that is.
 
My Dart Wagon has a 4 speed Hurst shifter in it. The stick is straight (like pic) what should a stick look like for a 65 Dart? Anyone have pics or even a Hurst part number?

3917960.jpg
 
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