I'm thinking for numerous reasons. To put a 318 in my 67 barracuda. That being said. They are generally very solid engines. Yet some say earlier years. For x. And roller later models for Y. I'm asking for opinions. Especially if your running one. Thank you.
Best Years for the 318 LA?
- Thread starter Drmanic
- Start date
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- If you want a roller cam, then '85 to 91 would be your choice for the LA.
- If you want a steel crank, then you'll be looking at early pickup truck engines. Early years do not have hardened seats for todays gas.
- I'm not sure there is an "absolute gold mine year" for the LA 318.
So basically your thought is roller years are good. Especially for fuel. Even if the heads generally suck and I go with a different set?
If you want a roller cam, it's the cheapest way to go. They will have the forever controversy 302 heads on them. When it comes to heads and comparing the small valve LA 1.78/1.50, I do not see a big advantage. Closed chamber heads bump the compression but I don't see a flow enhancement on the ports. Really, splitting hairs in my opinion.
The 66 and 67 920 heads are closed chamber and supposed to be good ones. I don't think they flow much better than the 302's and they don't have hardened seats.
'66 would be coming off a 273. The best head to ever come on a factory 318 for performance was the magnum heads. But the OP said LA.
Any of them, really.
LOL Ya, Teens like small chambered heads. (or big valve, big port) Ma Mopar wanted the teen to be a mundane no frills workhorse. They should have juiced one up like they did with the 273. Not even saying what the 340 was all about.
I haven't built it yet but I have a roller teen block and a set of Speedmaster heads. Forged crank from a 273 or a 4" arm?
If you are not opposed to the magnums, they are (in my opinion) the bang for the buck today. Easy to find and cheap when you do find them.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
"Best" will vary depending on your goals and the intended build/usage.
Looking for a basic stocker to freshen and bolt into a mellow street cruiser? Late roller block. Or even one of the early '80s cop 318 4 bbl. motors.
Something to poke and stroke and get a little hairy with? Early teener- blocks were thicker and can take a bigger overbore- guys make "stealth 340s" out of 'em. More likely to find the steel cranks in the early ones, if you want to stay stock stroke.
A raspy little street brawler, like Rusty said- any of them will be fine. Main thing is to get the compression up- decent pistons and the early heads (or a good set of 302s if you can find them) will get you a solid foundation. Do you really need a forged crank or massive overbore on the street, or street/strip? Probably not. Just depends where you're going with the build.
Looking for a basic stocker to freshen and bolt into a mellow street cruiser? Late roller block. Or even one of the early '80s cop 318 4 bbl. motors.
Something to poke and stroke and get a little hairy with? Early teener- blocks were thicker and can take a bigger overbore- guys make "stealth 340s" out of 'em. More likely to find the steel cranks in the early ones, if you want to stay stock stroke.
A raspy little street brawler, like Rusty said- any of them will be fine. Main thing is to get the compression up- decent pistons and the early heads (or a good set of 302s if you can find them) will get you a solid foundation. Do you really need a forged crank or massive overbore on the street, or street/strip? Probably not. Just depends where you're going with the build.
'68 and '69 318s were the factory 230 hp 9.2:1 cr engines came with 2bbl carbs. Full floating rods, valve relief pistons .040 ths in the hole.
My favorite 318 to look for if the cylinder bores are not gone so you can reuse the good pistons.
Then there are the '89 to '91 318 TBI roller engines. Also 9.2:1 with the flat top pistons and full floating rods. Also 230 hp. These came factory with the 302 closed chamber heads.
Needs the adapter on the end of the cam snout to mount the fuel pump eccentric.
Both favorite 318 engines.
☆☆☆☆☆
My favorite 318 to look for if the cylinder bores are not gone so you can reuse the good pistons.
Then there are the '89 to '91 318 TBI roller engines. Also 9.2:1 with the flat top pistons and full floating rods. Also 230 hp. These came factory with the 302 closed chamber heads.
Needs the adapter on the end of the cam snout to mount the fuel pump eccentric.
Both favorite 318 engines.
☆☆☆☆☆
Yah I'm not opposed to those at all. Was leaning towards them a bit. I researched some builds others have done. But didn't dive into the darn block to begin with. So I was like. HELLO?! but anyways.
Yah see. That's cool. I was wanting to use some Keith black pistons to bump up compression. And hotter cam. Intake and carb. Not much else. Besides the "normal items like timing chain. Bearings etc" just a solid reliable engine that isn't gonna be track used. Just used.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Are you sure? All the roller LAs I've had apart have had long-nose cams. The TBI versions just left off the eccentric and used a deeper-dished cam washer. Only short nose cams I've seen were in Magnums. But I haven't seen it all by far.
Last time I looked, aftermarket pistons are hard to come by.
I'm seeing a variety of ones on different websites. Obviously will depend on what size is needed/wanted after the machining process
Maybe fill in the blanks just a little for us on just what kind of 318 are we putting together?.?. If we are replacing pistons and all, then the more you replace the more irrelevant what year of engine you pick, aside from roller vs non-roller.
How about a vote on how roller cams are over rated. I think flat tappets are getting a bad rap due to dirty builds and poor break in procedures.
I'd be curious on "over rated" in what way? Performance? Durability? Cam Break-in procedure? Running basic oils that are common and not high in zinc? Not arguing, but curious on your thoughts? Cost is about the only thing I can think of where a flat tappet cam has the advantage over a roller.
Over rated mostly because people put the flat tappet down for the wrong reasons. No doubt the roller is superior in most cases. I just think people get hung up on it for the wrong reasons. I sure would not let it sway me on a block decision.
I have several FT cams in cars right now with no issues. I'm not against FT cams. But here are my main 3 likings for the roller.
- I can buy a 5 qrt jug of 10W-30 of my choice for cheap and pour it in the roller cams. No "high zinc" like VR-1 or Royal Purple or additives.
- I can swap cams in my roller motors and use the same lifters. That is very nice! In fact, I put a re-grind cam in one without changing the lifters making it actually more affordable than swapping flat tappet cams.
- Also, it is VERY nice not to have to prepare for the "cam break in".
I'd hope to agree. I did a build years ago and cam broke in fine. I'm leaning towards the newer years based on wall thickness. So I hear.
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