big block pro comp heads

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Duster Drag Car

Duster Drag Car

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I just purchased pro comp heads bare castings im going to use eldelrock valves and comp cams dual springs there 10 degree locks and there retainers and locator cups and shims ,my machinist will mildly port them and check for push rod clearance and essemble them im using there 1.6 offset rockers for now my build is a 68 440 with a strenghting rib factory forged crank bored 30 over je pistons eagle rods comp solid lifter cam 550-570 lift 587-608 lift with the 1.6 ratio rockers hoping for 600+hp in a 2800lbs 73 duster with a reverse manual beefed up 727 and a 742 casting 8 3/4 with 5.17 gears sub frame connectors leaf springs moved in 2 inches and 2 1n. spcer blocks 29.5 x 12 x15 slicks msd 6a holley 850 edelbrock victor intake[manifold hooker fenderwell headers aluminum radiator and electric fan. IM hoping for a mid 10 secound car let me know what you guys think!
 
at 2800lbs...should be no problems a BB,,,,good luck
 
sorry i just don't see mid 10's with that cam. 29.5's and 4.56 equal 7200+ going into the traps. you might be outa steam way before then. get a solid flat tappet with .600"+ lift and the duration at .050" between 270 and 290.
plus the intake is suspect also.
everything else is LOOKING GOOD.
 
bOb shingler said:
sorry i just don't see mid 10's with that cam. 29.5's and 4.56 equal 7200+ going into the traps. you might be outa steam way before then. get a solid flat tappet with .600"+ lift and the duration at .050" between 270 and 290.
plus the intake is suspect also.
everything else is LOOKING GOOD.
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the 1.6 ratio rockers put me at 587-608 lift
 
Duster Drag Car said:
I just purchased pro comp heads bare castings im going to use eldelrock valves and comp cams dual springs there 10 degree locks and there retainers and locator cups annd shims my machinist will mildly port them and check for push rod clearance and essemble them im using there 1.6 offset rockers for now my build is a 68 440 with strenghting rib factory forged crank bored 30 over je pistons eagle rods comp solid lifter cam 550-570 lift 587-608 lift with the 1.6 ratio rockers hoping for 600+hp in 2800lbs 73 duster with a reverse manual beefed up 727 and a 742 casting 8 3/4 with 4.56 gears sub frame connectors leaf springs moved in 2 inches 29.5 x 12 x15 slicks msd 6a holley 850 edelbrock torker 2 manifold hooker fenderwell headers aluminum radiator and electric fan. IM hoping for a mid 10 secound car let me know what you guys think.
Click to expand...
get rid of the torker 2
 
looks good. if your machinist balances/blueprints everything you will have a very fast car, 10's easy.

suggestions:
i've heard doing reverse manual etc in a 727 is not a good idea. a strong HD built 727 and a shift improver kit... some things are good some not so good. most everyone who goes to cope racing for 727 trans work comes away happy. http://coperacingtrans.com/
you should call them before you spend money on trans work/parts. avoid some of the off-the-shelf 727 builds you can buy at jegs/summit (TCI etc) i've heard horror stories about the quality and durability. just call cope. hear what they have to say.
 
just exhanged my torker 2 for a victor did a tire to drive shaft ratio check think the rear is 5.17 should change things a little as far as the cam if i go with more cam ill need more stall and ihave read that the 8 3/4 will hold up better with a softer launch
 
Im happy with that flow #. It's the same as what Im looking for from my stage vi heads,should get it no problem.

I think your there as far as a 10 sec combo,but as usual there will be thing's you find that need improvement.I dont know if I like the rear gears though. Big block has such a wide torque band,Im not sure you will need such steep gears.
 
I run a .590 lift Hughs cam and not tuned to the fullest and ran a 10.71 off the juice.

IMGP0197.jpg


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I'm running 4.10 gears and 28.5 inch tires.
I also think the manifold needs to be changed when you can.
I like the M-1,just what I like.
I'm running a 750 Holley.

0102111541.jpg
 
moparlover said:
looks good. if your machinist balances/blueprints everything you will have a very fast car, 10's easy.

suggestions:
i've heard doing reverse manual etc in a 727 is not a good idea. a strong HD built 727 and a shift improver kit... some things are good some not so good. most everyone who goes to cope racing for 727 trans work comes away happy. http://coperacingtrans.com/
you should call them before you spend money on trans work/parts. avoid some of the off-the-shelf 727 builds you can buy at jegs/summit (TCI etc) i've heard horror stories about the quality and durability. just call cope. hear what they have to say.
Click to expand...

I don't know where you heard that, but I wouldn't listen to them on any other suggestions.
 
Getting back to the Pro-Comp heads. Has anyone here used them? I've been thinking about using these on my 499 build.

Ted
 
DusTed74 said:
Getting back to the Pro-Comp heads. Has anyone here used them? I've been thinking about using these on my 499 buil
these heads can make big power dont buy the assembled ones use good valves and springs matched to your cam might need some machining to enlarge push rod holes for clearence and like any other heads porting makes power my machinist said the castings looked real nice but buy the time im done with machining and parts im right up there with the price of the edelbrock victor head
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bOb hit the nail on the head you need to change the rear gear to around a 4.30. You will run out of gear very quick with those 5.17's specialy with that weight. Also I dont think those heads will make power past 6500RMP and I think the cam will fizzle even earlier. Those gears and tires are going to want to spin in the 7300 to 7600 in the trap, may even be higher with the verter slip. If you keep those gear I think you will struggle with high 10s and low MPH (117 to 122 ish).
 
MidTexCuda said:
bOb hit the nail on the head you need to change the rear gear to around a 4.30. You will run out of gear very quick with those 5.17's specialy with that weight. Also I dont think those heads will make power past 6500RMP and I think the cam will fizzle even earlier. Those gears and tires are going to want to spin in the 7300 to 7600 in the trap, may even be higher with the verter slip. If you keep those gear I think you will struggle with high 10s and low MPH (117 to 122 ish).
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I agree. My steel 3200 Demon with 380HP runs 114 @ 6300 with 29.5 / 4.56s. (I shift @ 5500.)With all the power you make, plus so light, your RPMs will be pretty high. Not sure how long you want the engine to last?
 
Wasn't that car ownwd by aouther member on this board, I think he was one of the original 100. I cant remember the his name, I think it was Dart Sport or something. Maybe you should try and find his old post a how he ran the car.
 
I looked up those heads. Apparently they need an offset intake rocker (.400 ).Where did you get the rockers? Are they pro comp as well? The .400 offset is close to what a stage vi uses (.480) so they might be useable on the stage vi with some grinding.

Big block mopar rods are pretty cheap too! Heck the I beam is $375 and good to 1000 h.p! Anybody use em?
 
the heads use .650 offset roller rockers and im using eagle 4340 forged h beam rods .990 pin with je forged flat tops 2 valve relief the first castings of these heads used .450 offset and there were problems casting and rockers have been improved with good valves and springs and and a little machining these head will make great power 72 cc cumbustion chambers and 280runners combaired to others with 75cc 78cc 80cc 84cc and 88cc and smaller runners the valves are 1.81 and 2.20
 
this car was not owned by another member i traded a harley for it was grey primer had a 383 and needed some tlc
 
moparmanestock said:
I agree. My steel 3200 Demon with 380HP runs 114 @ 6300 with 29.5 / 4.56s. (I shift @ 5500.)With all the power you make, plus so light, your RPMs will be pretty high. Not sure how long you want the engine to last?
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want my engine to last a long time its been a financial sacrafice to build im gonna lauch at 3500 and shift at 6500 if gear ratio is to steep i will change it you tell me one rotation of tire to 5 plus rotations of the drive shaft and looking up the gear ratios that 8 3/4s came with think its 5.17 i didnt pick those gears came with the car.
 
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