Black rallye gauge

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70Duster340

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What black paint best matches the black on the rallye gauges? I am installing a voltmeter, and am going to use the gauge face with the numbers. It will fit with some modifications, but I need to fit a metal background to the gauge to fill in the area where the ammeter was. I have the metal to fabricate it, but apparently I don't have the correct black paint.

Thanks!
 
70Duster340 said:
What black paint best matches the black on the rallye gauges? I am installing a voltmeter, and am going to use the gauge face with the numbers. It will fit with some modifications, but I need to fit a metal background to the gauge to fill in the area where the ammeter was. I have the metal to fabricate it, but apparently I don't have the correct black paint.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Maybe you could throw a couple of pics up showing your mod. I suspect others with a Rallye dash would be interested.......I know I am.
 
So here's what I have so far:

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The gauge is a Sunpro CP8084. The faceplate is held on by 2 tiny screws. I removed the faceplate, and used it to locate the holes at the base of the backing plate. For the backing plate, I used the ammeter as a template. I haven't finished trimming it yet. It will be mounted behind the voltmeter faceplate, just to fill the gap that the ammeter filled. I may paint the edge of the voltmeter faceplate to make it blend in better with the backing plate.
The bolts are the same distance apart as the ammeter, so it slides into place. They are longer, and I will probably have to use some nuts to space the voltmeter in the gauge pod, since it will just fall in too deep, and sits much lower in the pod. That's not an issue, though.
I will also paint the needle with some Testors model paint in the correct orange. I may hit all the needles just to be sure that they all match.
So, what do you think?
 
Sunpro CP8215 has a couple of black plastic spacers in it. They'll hold it close enough to correct height. Most ppl just lay the volts screen on top of the original alternator screen. If you think the raw edge of the volts screen will show, hit it with a black sharpie.
The part of white needle on the bottom of the volts gauge is both counter balance and stop. The cast metal post in the center of the housing pod will need clearance cut for that part of the needle.
 
Well, I trimmed up the post in the center of the gauge pod, and am going to make some plastic spacers from the shaft of an old ink pen.

I painted all the gauge needles in the same orange that I painted the ammeter needle. This way they will all match.

I think I went through way too much trouble to attain the end result.
 
70Duster340 said:
Well, I trimmed up the post in the center of the gauge pod, and am going to make some plastic spacers from the shaft of an old ink pen.

I painted all the gauge needles in the same orange that I painted the ammeter needle. This way they will all match.

I think I went through way too much trouble to attain the end result.
Click to expand...
Let's see some more pics. I like what I see so far.
 
Thanks. I want to do the same to my Ralleye dash. Nice to have someone show me how to do it. LOL
 
CFD244 said:
Thanks. I want to do the same to my Ralleye dash. Nice to have someone show me how to do it. LOL
Click to expand...
I don't know about that. After all is said and done, you may not want to put this much effort into it. Heck, I may be making it harder than it has to be! But for some reason I prefer to have the numbers rather than just the marks.
 
Here's the rest of the pictures.
I am concerned about something, that being the fact that the gauge is off by a volt, according to my multimeter. Can these things be adjusted?

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That looks awesome. It will be on my list when my bezel is out for restoration. Thanks for posting.
 
No problem! But you need to know, I am having some issues with interference with the gauge needle and the gauge face. Apparently when I added the backing to the body of the gauge, it caused some tighter clearance, causing the needle to rub against the gauge face. I'm still trying to work that out. I would like to just use the ammeter body, and install the voltmeter into the ammeter body, but I don't know how to remove the ammeter from the plastic body.

If someone here can advise me on how to disassemble the ammeter, it would be greatly appreciated.
 
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