i just put in an 8.75 into my 69 dart, the rear brake hose was removed during the process. my question is: do i need to bleed the front brakes after having bleed the rears. If i didn't bleed the front brakes what would happen, how would my pedal feel? can i only bleed the rears, what do you recommend?
bleeding brakes
- Thread starter ivan
- Start date
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I'd start with the farthest one from master cylinder and bleed them all. The fronts may not need it but best to be sure.
i bleed the rear and the pedal seems wrong to me, it stops at 1.75 inches above the floor. I have to pump it 3 times before it gains some height. then after letting the pedal loose, i apply it and it travels down to 1.75 inch from the floor. I think i will try bleeding the front as well. is there any way to gain some height above 1.75 inches, if so let me know. the car has front disc, valve, and master from a 75 dart.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Like I said, tighten up the shoes. Tighten 'em up until you cannot turn the wheels, bleed the brakes, then back 'em off an equal amount on each side until they drag some. Stab the brakes a couple of times to make sure they are "seated." Adjust from there
ALSO CHECK are the rear cylinder sizes different between your old/ new axle? the larger the rear cylinder bores, the more "pedal" you will use up
ALSO CHECK are the rear cylinder sizes different between your old/ new axle? the larger the rear cylinder bores, the more "pedal" you will use up
green1
Well-Known Member
You may have thrown the valve off-center. SLOWLY start bleeding the front, about halfway to the floor, the guy in the seat should feel a click, in the pedal- stop pushing, and tighten bleeder. Valve is now centered.
I've always found gravity bleedin works real good. Take the cap off the M/C make sure it's full, break all the bleeder screws open and go have a sammich.
70DartMike
Too many projects
I built a power bleeder out of a one gallon insectiside sprayer. It works like a charm every time..
When you look at the sprayer, the side with the wand gets turned into the feed line, then make an adapter to fit your style master cly. On the other side is the relief vavle I changed that to hold a air pressure gauge and relief vavle assembly. Fill it with brake fluid tighten the lid, pump it to about 10-15 psi. it will automatically fill the master cly. and get rid of any air in the system.
Good luck
When you look at the sprayer, the side with the wand gets turned into the feed line, then make an adapter to fit your style master cly. On the other side is the relief vavle I changed that to hold a air pressure gauge and relief vavle assembly. Fill it with brake fluid tighten the lid, pump it to about 10-15 psi. it will automatically fill the master cly. and get rid of any air in the system.
Good luck
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