Bob's Component Resto Part 12: Factory Cruise Control

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cruiser

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Good evening fellow Moparites! Welcome back to another sleep inducing bedtime story from the A body world. Tonight's episode is a bit different and likely something that you've never come across at a car show - a 1974 A body with factory cruise control. So we'll begin with a disclaimer: Chrysler didn't offer cruise control as an option on A bodies until 1975. But with my cross country road trip coming up next year, I decided to add cruise control to my 1974 Duster to make the trip more tolerable. There are a number of aftermarket cruise setups available, all of which I rejected as they didn't have the factory look that I like. So this left me with retrofitting a factory setup into my Duster which wasn't available when the car was built in late 1973. Step one was to research what would work, and I learned that the 1975 system would work just fine in my car. Many of the components of the Chrysler cruise control systems were common to all cars in the A, B, C and E body fleets back then. Basically, it was a modular system that could be easily plugged into a vehicle as an option when the car travelled down the assembly line. The system was composed of a vacuum operated throttle servo and its carb linkage, a controller on the turn signal stalk, a wiring harness with a brake cutout switch, and two speedometer cables (one from the trans to the servo, the other from the servo to the speedometer). Yep, finding all this stuff was quite a challenge. Since my car has the 225 slant six motor, finding the throttle linkage was tough. Very few slant six powered vehicles came with cruise control, but I found a slant six powered 1979 Volare in a salvage yard that provided the very rare Holley 1945 one barrel carb linkage (also described in the shop manual as the "lost motion link"), the correct length servo-to-carb cable and its unique dual attachment bracket, the servo mounting bracket, and the speedometer cables. A 1971 Chrysler sedan supplied the wiring harness. I bought the servo, control stalk and brake switch NOS on e-Bay. And yeah, it was expensive but I didn't want to gamble on the unreliability of used parts since I'll be keeping the car for a long time. Step one was to spread it all out on my basement floor and figure out how it went together. My factory 1974 shop manual was helpful in describing the system layout for B and E body cars. I bead blasted the rusty servo bracket, then finished it in three coats of self etching primer follower by three finish coats of Krylon Satin Black spray paint (see before and after photos below). Once dry, I mounted the NOS vacuum servo to the bracket using the original nuts which I de-rusted with Evapo-Rust. I had to replace the crumbling original foam air filter that came with the NOS servo with new foam before I installed the servo. The final photo below shows the new foam air filter underneath its aluminum cover on the side of the servo. The throttle cable was pretty bad. These things are nearly impossible to find for the A body, and the one off the Volare was the correct length but was shedding its plastic cable covering, revealing the steel cable housing underneath (see photos). The cable itself was sound, so I removed the remainder of the damaged plastic cover then cleaned up the bare steel cable cover. I had to replace the missing covering, so I carefully masked it off then hit it with eight coats of Plasti Dip aerosol black rubber coating. I was very happy with the resulting finish, which is extremely durable. I attached the cable to the servo, then mounted the servo to the inner fender using online photos of a 1975 Duster cruise installation as a guide. The inner fender was not dimpled for these holes, so the aforementioned photos helped a lot. Next, I installed the dual throttle cable bracket and the lost motion link, then attached the cable to the carb linkage and installed a new vacuum supply hose from the brake booster to the servo using the correct red steel spring clamps. I then removed and discarded the speedometer cable and installed the replacement dual speedometer cables from the trans to the servo, and from the servo to the speedometer. Next came the wiring harness installation, which provided its own unique challenge. Since there was no factory opening in the firewall for the harness to pass through, I looked under the dash and found an oval plastic plug that covered the unused clutch linkage hole. The wiring harness came with a rubber grommet with the wires passing through its center. I cut a hole in the plastic plug the diameter of the rubber grommet, then mounted the grommet into the plug and installed it all into the firewall creating a very factory looking fit. I then replaced the original brake light switch with the NOS dual brake/cruise control disconnect switch. The new switch fit perfectly into the original bracket under the dash and didn't even need any adjusting - I merely used the original factory position of the switch. Next, I disassembled the top end of the steering column and removed the stock turn signal lever. I then removed the male connector at the end of the cruise controller and fished the wires through the column, then reinstalled the connector and hooked it into the wiring harness. Consulting the electrical section of my shop manual, I found an unused switched power supply under the driver's side cowl that supplied an ignition feed for a rear defroster. I connected the cruise control wiring harness to this power supply and now I had 12 volt power to the system. With everything installed it was now time to road test it, and it took a lot of tinkering to get it working right. But now that it does I love the way it works and looks in my car. The photo of the stalk shows exactly what a 1974 A body would look like had cruise control been available that year. The system holds the car's speed within plus or minus one mph on the highway. I'm really happy that I decided to go with the factory setup, even though it probably cost me over twice as much as an aftermarket system. Since I have to look at it for the rest of my life, I think it was worth it. That's all for now, kids. I hope that you're ready to fall asleep after reading this, so go get into your jammies and enjoy a nice long nap. Night night!

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Great job! Looks factory.
I remember installing the aftermarket types back in the late 70s. Customer opinions varied regarding the setup. We had to replace a few of the on/off switches and one throttle controller.
 
If anyone is messing with factory Mopar cruise control setups, and having problems with the button or the resume-on-off slide sticking-DO NOT lube them with anything! I've always kept all of the CC stuff off of the cars that I've parted out. Had several with sticking buttons, If you spray them with anything, you will make it worse. I recently got my 3 A Body setups out of the box and decided to clean them up a bit. All of the buttons or slides were somewhat sticky. I sprayed 2 of them and worked the moving parts. The buttons both went in and stuck! I thought great-I ruined 2 of them, I decided to soak one of them in hot water with some Dawn dishwashing soap, I let it sit for awhile changing the water a couple of times, it finally came unstuck and finally works like a new one. I tapped it on a paper towel letting it sit on end for a couple days to let it dry out. So-do not lube them!
 
Back in the 80s, when a shop that built conversion vans was closed there was a sealed bid auction on a lot of left over stuff. I got a unopened dealer install type cruise control kit for Dodge van. I have all the cruise control from a 75 Valiant Brougham with slant 6 too. To this day I dont know how much of it is the same/interchangeable. I know neither upper cable will attach to my 67 speedometer. I doubt either lower cable will attach to my 67 trans.
I should have kept the aftermarket cruise control that was in our 1st 67 notch. It worked perfectly.
 
I too, will put one of my A Body setups in my 67 Dart. It is going to need a custom upper cable from the screw on speedometer to the servo. I found a couple places that say they can do it. The 75 bottom cable will fit yo
Back in the 80s, when a shop that built conversion vans was closed there was a sealed bid auction on a lot of left over stuff. I got a unopened dealer install type cruise control kit for Dodge van. I have all the cruise control from a 75 Valiant Brougham with slant 6 too. To this day I dont know how much of it is the same/interchangeable. I know neither upper cable will attach to my 67 speedometer. I doubt either lower cable will attach to my 67 trans.
I should have kept the aftermarket cruise control that was in our 1st 67 notch. It worked perfectly.
ur 67
 
Great read on cruise control. I love your attention to detail. Beautiful Duster.
 
I put a cruise from an 80s Chrysler in my cuda. The hardest part is the carb linkage. Takes a little fiddling. I used the turn signal stalk off a 70s dodge because the 80s ones are integrated into the column. The servos are pretty same over many years.
 
Great read on cruise control. I love your attention to detail. Beautiful Duster.
Thanks. Loved your video, too. The cruise installation was a lot of trial and error work, but the result was very satisfying. I had to go through three servos until I found one that worked right (the NOS one I bought on e-Bay). Many problems to overcome, but like anything, if you stick with it long enough it eventually works out. I've attached two photos of my car that the setup went into. A very handsome car back in the day, in my humble opinion. The Rallye wheels are the factory original 14 x 5.5 JJ wheels. 48 year old car with 237K miles on it, BTW.

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I sectioned the flange seal with a dremel tool on a servo and took it apart and repaired it. Not that difficult.
 
The rubber diaphragm was stuck to the housing. A little Wd-40 & some prying loosened it up. I put it back together and bent the metal tabs back over & it works ok, except the speed set is about 5 mph low. You have to speed up a little over when you want it set the push the button

I made some schematics & learned how it works if anyone is interested.
 
this is amazing and your car is nothing short of amazing too. I'm on the hunt to replace the Speedometer cables on my wife's 75 Duster 360 which is a factory cruise control car. What source did you use for the Upper & Lower cruise control cables?
 
this is amazing and your car is nothing short of amazing too. I'm on the hunt to replace the Speedometer cables on my wife's 75 Duster 360 which is a factory cruise control car. What source did you use for the Upper & Lower cruise control cables?
The upper cable came off a 79 Volare from a junkyard. The lower cable came from Byron Fettig, who owns a MOPAR parts company called The Dakota Connection. He has access to an amazing number of Mopar parts vehicles and has many times come through with rare parts for me. When I called, he had several lengths of lower cruise control cables available. I bought one and it worked perfectly. He can be reached at (710) 222-4362. Best to call after 5 PM. If all else fails, there are places online that'll make a custom one for you. Just do a Google search and you'll find them. Best of luck with your wife's Duster!
 
Thanks! Do you happen to know the length of your upper cable? I've found a few on ebay, but not sure which length to get.
 
Thanks! Do you happen to know the length of your upper cable? I've found a few on ebay, but not sure which length to get.
I didn't measure it, but you can get a pretty good idea by running a tape measure along the path the cable takes from the servo to the back of the instrument cluster. You'll be real close to the original measurement. You can also check with Byron at the number above. It's likely that he would have the upper cable that you need.
 
The upper A Body cable is 33 1/4 to 33 1/2 inches long. I'll get the lower cable length sometime in the next couple days.
 
Just an FYI- rockauto has sets of CC speedo cables for various years.
 
Hello friend, thank you very much for your great contribution. Could you show me photos of all the connections please as I am installing on my slant six and I don't know how to connect what I am missing. she added some photos of what I have without knowing how to connect them.

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Hello friend, thank you very much for your great contribution. Could you show me photos of all the connections please as I am installing on my slant six and I don't know how to connect what I am missing. she added some photos of what I have without knowing how to connect them.

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The component that you're holding in the photos does not appear to be part of a cruise control system. Looks like you already have the servo, wiring harness and speedometer cables, from what I can see.
 
The component that you're holding in the photos does not appear to be part of a cruise control system. Looks like you already have the servo, wiring harness and speedometer cables, from what I can see.
Thanks friend, please send me pictures from the lost motion link from you slant six.
 
Buenos dias, Andres. Here are two photos. The first is the lost motion link attached to the throttle arm of the carburetor, and the second is the dual throttle cable bracket (below the carb) showing how both throttle cables are attached to the engine. Hope this helps. Gracias!

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Buenos dias, Andres. Here are two photos. The first is the lost motion link attached to the throttle arm of the carburetor, and the second is the dual throttle cable bracket (below the carb) showing how both throttle cables are attached to the engine. Hope this helps. Gracias!

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Thank you very much friend, I already made the connection.

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I got around to doing some more troubleshooting and parts replacing on my wife's Duster 360 today which included replacing the upper cable because I broke the end while removing the instrument cluster a few weeks ago.

The Upper cable measured out at 33.5" for and was a Stewart Warner cable with P/N: 3593284

The speedometer turns when I manually spin the cable from the end disconnected from the cruise control module. My next step is to pull the lower cable off the transmission and spin it from there. If It spins I'll then pull the drive gear and check that.

I replaced the cable with ATP Y-890 It was the closest to length I could find on their website that had the correct ends.

ATP Automotive Y-890 Speedometer Cable

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That looks really great! Isn't it hilarious how they they just slapped it right on top of the emissions sticker like an after thought? I literally laughed out loud at that. lol
 
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