Body filler in the trunk?

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ESP47

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I'm replacing part of the trunk floor in my Barracuda. I butt welded the patch panel in. It's not perfect but I'm proud of it since I'm very much a novice welder. There's some warping here and there but it came out ok. If I want to get the trunk floor looking pretty smooth, would it be ok to use body filler here? In my garage, I have a brand new can of Evercoat Metal 2 Metal and a new can of Rage Gold filler. Should I place the Metal 2 Metal across the areas that were welded and then use the Rage Gold on the flat part of the panel? It'll never look perfect but I'd like it to at least look presentable if I have the trunk mat up. Then again if the filler is going to crack or cause problems back there I'd rather just not even mess with it. Thanks.
 
typically, fillers inside the trunk are not a good idea... for exactly the reasons you mention. Have you tried to dolly it back into shape? it would be helpful too if you could show us what you're up against..
 
ESP47 said:
I'm replacing part of the trunk floor in my Barracuda. I butt welded the patch panel in. It's not perfect but I'm proud of it since I'm very much a novice welder. There's some warping here and there but it came out ok. If I want to get the trunk floor looking pretty smooth, would it be ok to use body filler here? In my garage, I have a brand new can of Evercoat Metal 2 Metal and a new can of Rage Gold filler. Should I place the Metal 2 Metal across the areas that were welded and then use the Rage Gold on the flat part of the panel? It'll never look perfect but I'd like it to at least look presentable if I have the trunk mat up. Then again if the filler is going to crack or cause problems back there I'd rather just not even mess with it. Thanks.
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Well......... in our honest opinion, you will be just fine with the Evercoat Metal 2 Metal (we have never used the Evercoat brand) we have always used the USC all-metal with great success. Start with the Evercoat M 2 M over the welded seam area, just make sure you will have sometime after it is dry, to sand it down, as once you spread it on make sure you can sand it within a few days or it will be so hard, you will have to grind it off with a 24 grit grinding pad, especially if like the USC all metal! We have also used body filler ( a top of the line filler recommended) like you mentioned over the M2M filler with awesome results! This is how we plan to finish off the inside of the trunk floor on our 66 Chev Impala Conv. BB car. We have also used USC All-Metal on oil pans, valve covers, for many years, and its still there and looks great! Everything on body and so on, is prep, prep, prep, prep!!!!!!!!!!
Good Luck!
 
I have to agree with the last post. There is no reason why you can't use body filler inside the trunk. As long as the weld is solid and no chance of moisture coming in from the bottom you're golden. I would seam seal from the bottom to ensure no moisture can get behind the filler. Use your "metal" filler over the welds and go from there with your Rage filler.
 
Thanks for the input fellas. I looked and I actually have the USC All Metal and not the Evercoat brand. I shined a light from the bottom and don't see any pin holes but I'm sure there's some there that I can't find so the seam sealer from the bottom is a good idea. Good tip on sanding the all metal before it gets too hard. This thing is already enough work, the last thing I need is to make extra for myself. Thanks again.
 
saw a 442 olds that took top honours at a high end car show and the magazine article outlining it's restoration.There was hardly anywhere on that car that wasn't covered with filler..including the body,floorpans,frame,trunk...you name it.The frame was pitted beyond belief...but looked mint when finished.
..if it's just a skim covered with quality paint and a trunk liner you'll be fine.
 
I forgot to mention one thing..... do grind down the weld and the surrounding area with at least a 24 grit grinding pad for exceptional adhesion to the trunk floor. We also have the best luck sanding with 3M 40 grit sandpaper to get down to where you need be. Good Luck!
 
Yes, grind and use a die grinder with a carbide bit to get into the nooks and crannies of the weld or where the larger grinder will bridge, leaving un-ground areas. I like using a cylinder shaped carbide bit as the edge is sharper than say a cone shaped bit.

Don't over do it. You will never get it perfect. It never was perfect. Just try to make it smooth.

Don't dismiss the suggestion of seam sealer either. Use tape to make a professional looking seam and match it from side to side. Fusor 800 is an excellent direct to metal product, though I suggest a good epoxy primer first then seam
seal right before paint. It can be painted while wet.
 
Just my .02. but Im thinking fiberglass with maybe filler on top to smooth it out. Back in the day we would fill trunk holes with fiberglass and mesh. It lasted for a while. I don't remember any cracking. But over time (like 5 years or so) Im sure something might happen to it. if its garage kept might not be an issue with moisture. The seam sealer is also a very good idea. Mopar used seam sealer at the factory. It looks like a wide bead of black sealer. Doesn't have to be perfect cause it wasn't when new. Good luck. :)
 
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