body line help

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72ScampTramp

72ScampTramp

Scamp Tramp
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I did a quarter panel replacement. It was a skin replacement and I seamed it in below the body line on the top. After filler work. Ive lost the top body line. I did like videos have shown me. Taping the top and blocking then taping the bottom of the line and blocking. What i got is a line. Its not defined like the other side. When i run my hand over it i dont feel a slight ridge. So how to fix it? Photos attached
 

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That will not be easy and will take many hours of sanding.

Metal finish everything as best you can, try to get some definition of the body line with a nail-gun.

Next you will need to take your filler and and cover the area, from one end of the 1/4 to the other.

Sand and further define the body line.

Use tape to clarify the line.

Repeat process until you are close enough to move onto a glazing putty.

Start the process over with a glazing putty.


This will be hours of careful and correct sanding. 20-30 hours would not be unrealistic (for me at least).
 
OOPs!!

Should have made you cut at the top crown! O'well, to late now. Get your blue tape there in the photo and start at the front of the 1/4. Stick it good to the front and pull al the way to the rear of the 1/4 without it sticking to the panel, pull the tape as tight as you can and stick the rear once you get an eyebell down the 1/4. I would start above the line (tape below the bodyline). Get some evercoat metal glaze and mix it cold! Start at the front and drag the glaze with at least a 6" spreader to the rear of the 1/4. Try to get this done in one or two strokes. Firm-flat pressure on the spreader. Once done pull the tape and let the glaze kick. Use a good flat block and knock the sticky surface of the glaze off. Just the sticky surface, don't block out yet! Stay off the bodyline!!

Start over again on the bottom of the line and apply the same blue tape and repeat the above instructions with the glaze (tape above the bodyline).

Once the glaze has cured about 30 minutes spray a light guidecoat of cheap rattle can flat black then get a 12-18 inch flat block and start sanding in a "X" pattern towards the bodyline. One side at a time!!!! If it makes you comfortable apply the tape to the side you are NOT sanding. I would use 180 grit and work in long light strokes.

You can pefect the bodyline once the filler primer is applied!! Use the tape again after you prime and use the same method as above to sharpen the line.

Remember!!!!!! "X" pattern towards the line!!! STAY OFF of the bodyline when sanding. Take your time! You'll get it!
 
You can use filler or metal glaze to build that body like back up.
 

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I can tell by looking at your panel its under cut, To much filler removed. Your filler when done properly it should look feathered out onto the panel. And like stated before you need to put filler on the whole panel and block out with the longest board you have in all directions.
 
Thanks guys. Thats exactly what i thought i needed to do. Just needed reassurance. And Adam thats how i have been blocking it was with the tape on the crown on where the line is and blocking. There is actually 2 types of filler on there duraglass and evercoat light weight filler. not sure what undercut means.
 
CUUDAK said:
OOPs!!

Should have made you cut at the top crown! O'well, to late now. Get your blue tape there in the photo and start at the front of the 1/4. Stick it good to the front and pull al the way to the rear of the 1/4 without it sticking to the panel, pull the tape as tight as you can and stick the rear once you get an eyebell down the 1/4. I would start above the line (tape below the bodyline). Get some evercoat metal glaze and mix it cold! Start at the front and drag the glaze with at least a 6" spreader to the rear of the 1/4. Try to get this done in one or two strokes. Firm-flat pressure on the spreader. Once done pull the tape and let the glaze kick. Use a good flat block and knock the sticky surface of the glaze off. Just the sticky surface, don't block out yet! Stay off the bodyline!!

Start over again on the bottom of the line and apply the same blue tape and repeat the above instructions with the glaze (tape above the bodyline).

Once the glaze has cured about 30 minutes spray a light guidecoat of cheap rattle can flat black then get a 12-18 inch flat block and start sanding in a "X" pattern towards the bodyline. One side at a time!!!! If it makes you comfortable apply the tape to the side you are NOT sanding. I would use 180 grit and work in long light strokes.

You can pefect the bodyline once the filler primer is applied!! Use the tape again after you prime and use the same method as above to sharpen the line.

Remember!!!!!! "X" pattern towards the line!!! STAY OFF of the bodyline when sanding. Take your time! You'll get it!
Click to expand...


That would have been an ideal place but the panel didnt go up that far. I guess what I had thought was to spread the filler. Then tape the line. Sanding to the edge of the tape. Then moving the tape to the other side of the line and repeating. Should leave me with a ridge when im done correct?
 
Nope, leave the tape on. You want to build that edge. By undercut he means your taking to much filler off. You can use a Poly primer too. Its probably just as thick as the metal glaze.
 
adam it looks as if you have filler over your tape. If i let it dry with the tape on I dont see how im going to get the tape off? Wouldnt it be stuck under the filler?
 
Dont let the stuff dry rock hard Your gonna sand up to the tape which will allow it to come of clean. Im sure you could pull the tape first if you want. Just be carefull not to sane to much.
 
right i get where your going. I thought if i pull the tape before it dries. Then I can run another peice of tape over the top of the filler to give me a line to guild by why I sand. I got a pretty good mental picture of what i need to do and your photos help. Do i want to use a sanding block or a air powered file?
 
This guy does a good job of demonstrating the basic idea of what you want to do. Start by watching this video & then the next in the series to see more. I hope this helps. Or search youtube for 1968 Dodge Dart GT restoration[ame="http://youtu.be/ngbV73Eiysw"]302 Found[/ame]
 
Do it like he says. Make sure you skip a section in the middle. Don't do 2 adjacent sections together. Get the 2 surrounding surfaces right 1st then do the 1 in between. In your case I'd probably do the top section 1st & then drop to the lower middle section next. Then go back & do the top middle section. Use the harder filler for the outer sections & then use the polyester filler(glaze) for the middle. Polyester filler sands easier & should help you not to cut into the work you just did on the other sections.

AdamR's instructions & CUUDAK's are very good too. His pics are what you should end up with.
Good luck & be patient! Show us how you make out.
 
Yeah; tape, mud, then a 14" file at a 30 degree andle.Up and down, going sideways the whole time. Sand into the tape. Then take a level, upright it, and take measurements every 6" from the good side crease.Transfer those to the side you are working on; may need more layers of tape to match the good panel. Get the cream from Sherwin Williams.
 
I agree with all of what Adam and Cuudak said, I personally do not like the way your duraglass shows through filler... the duraglass is actually probably too high and making the filler look like it's been sanded too much. Also the way your filler ends on all of the edges is not feathered properly, you will see it and I'm sure you can feel it. Look at how Adam's filler smoothly transitions to metal.
 
Im sure your right. I did put 2 coats of duraglass on. I think what i do is put filler on then sand most of it off which is why im not getting the build i want from my filler. Not the fillers fault its the operater. But really the panel is baby smooth. The blend is choppy ill give you that but none of the edges are raised. That was blocked with 80 grit.
 
well we shall see. How it turns out. I got both sides of the line built up. Now all i got to do is sand it out and make a ridge right
 
Update for yall. I GOT A LINE. Now i just need to refine it. i did the method yall outlined but instead of blocking first i used an air board to rough it in. Its looking pretty good. Once i got it all roughed in i taped it off and will finish blocking to get the line straight.
 

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