Bought a Mopar found some odd issues.

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superdart360

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First of all, before I dug deep into the car to figure out what was going on this is what it was doing.

with a new cap, rotor, coil, plugs.
Would run fine at idle, in park you could rev up just fine no hesitation. Put in gear and and put under a load car would pop and spit until around 3,000 rpm then it would take off. Adjusted timing several times same result. tried 2 carbs with same result.

So I took out the distributor to find the pickup coil was making contact. I gapped the pickup coil at .008 And I ordered a new ballast resistor as the one in the car was very burnt looking.
I have not recieved the new ballast resistor to try it out yet. Does this sound like a probable cause for these issues?
any other reccomendations?

Thanks
 
Not the ballast for sure. Does it idle ok just in gear? If it idles ok in gear and only starts to fart around when you hit the gas I would say accelerator pump in carb is weak, or is carb related for sure, especially if the timing is ok and your electrical is all new.
 
You have checked timing. IS the vaccum pod connected when it's being run? On mopars, this vaccum can can be adjusted to preload the spring. You take a small allen wrench, straight up the hose nipple. Sounds like the vaccum advance needs a couple turns counterclockwise. That will raise the vaccum required to operate the advance. It should eliminate the popping. The pickup will make issues if the gap on the reluctor is bad. But it will not clear up once a misfire starts. It might be fine at idle, but off idle will miss. but it wont clear up afer it starts to miss.
 
Could be a weak fuel pump. If you decide it could be the vac. advance, ditch that distributor and buy a lean burn distributor. That way you don't have to jack with that thing anymore... Another weird thing that I have run across (twice) is a sloppy or weak ignition switch can have symptoms like that too.
 
You can check the ballast resistor with a meter really quick, if you get between .8 or 1.5 ohms I would say it's good unless it's breaking down from heat after it gets warm (I've never seen that yet)There may be resistors with slightly higher values since there are several made for different applications. Mine ohm's out at around .85 ohms. Also double-triple check the firing order. You could also put a timing light on it and watch the numbers on the balancer to see if you have any kind of jumping or erratic timing issues during revving. Did you try a different coil? OOps didn't see that the coil has been replaced.
 
In addition to a new cap, rotor, coil, plugs and all the above info. I am still stumped. but have more info.

I bought new ballast resistor, new 8.5mm wires, new holly fuel pump placed in rear of car near tank.

But what I have found is that with the vacuum advance line un hooked the car runs much better. There is no popping or sputtering. with it on when you advance or retard the distributor the popping and sputtering changes changes to a higher or lower rpm.

New distributor? Thats about the only part of the car I have not changed out.

Thanks for all the help.
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