Bronze Distributor drive gears for Roller Cam

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bremereric

bremereric

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Any help would be appreciated for the following statement. You can see my 440 mock up in pictures below. I have the bronze distributor drive gear for it and had one in my previous 340 roller motor. All of the small block and big block books I have read always state that you must run one otherwise you will find metal shavings in your oil pan. I understand this plain simple fact. :stop:
Can any explain the specifics as to why? :stop: One further question would be, do I need to run a bronze tipped fuel pump pushrod or can I run a regular one? :read2:

First Pic of almost complete mocked up motor

IMG00312.jpg
 
The way I understand it is that the old flat tappet camshaft is a lot softer, material wise, than the roller cam shaft and because of this the roller cam shaft drive gear will eat the old soft dizzy/pump drive gear. I however could be wrong.
 
It depends on what the cam core material is whether you need to use a bronze gear. If it's a billet cam core, you need to use a bronze gear, otherwise the standard gear will kill the cam dist gear.

Some of the new rollers are on a standard style core, making the bronze gear unnecessary.
 
My cam is from Comp Cams and I'm pretty sure it is from billet. They say to run the bronze distributor gear and also sell the high dollar bronze tipped fuel pump pushrod. Do I need the bronze tipped fuel pump pushrod?
 
The reason is the billet cam is much harder and will wear the teeth off the drive. Same with the fuel pump rod.
 
you should be able to use dizzy drive gears for roller cam la/magnum motors. i havent done his on a mopar but fords have the same issues and can be delt with that way. i dont like bronze/brass as it wears quickly, fine for a race car but no fun on the street.
 
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