Building a new exhaust

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danielb927

danielb927

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I've decided the 340 HP manifolds are here to stay and I want no part of putting on headers. Time to decide what to do behind that. Some of you may remember the old thread but here's what I have now:

p1010550k.jpg


p1010549f.jpg


Options I'm thinking of are (in order of approximate price)

1) Full TTI manifold-back 2.5" x-pipe system ($576 + mufflers)
2) TTI down-pipes with a Pypes x-pipe system ($480 + mufflers)
3) TTI down-pipes with a Jegs/Summit true dual system ($380 + mufflers)

What's the best option? I've heard that TTI systems look nice but can be a pain to install. The Pypes/Jegs/Summit systems say they are for headers back, would that need customization to fit with the TTI manifold pipes?

Oh, and I'm leaning towards the new DynoMax VT mufflers.

Will post sound clips tomorrow.
 
..............Accurate has a nice system from the manifolds back.........Just give them ur mani #s then they will build u a factory exhaust system....................kim..........
 
Sometimes a local exhaust shop can do a nice job, too. We have a few here that do some nice work and I wouldn't hesistate to use them again.

As for price...I couldn't even hazard a guess. The last time I had exhaust bent and mounted was around $300. My dad, back when he was in TN, could have gotten the same job done for around $150.
 
Anyone ever used a Dr. Gas boom tube like This one?

Also, anything including the current exhaust is out. I noted 3 leaks within the first 20 seconds and only checking one side.
 
The spintechs look interesting. I'm thinking about going that route. My main question is, if I get TTI downpipes (or any kind of downpipe), can I use a "header-back" system from there? Do the downpipes end in the same spot as headers would or close enough to use a system like that?
 
Well, I went with the TTi manifold-back system. Just want to get it done and seems like this being my first exhaust job the easiest solution is probably the best. I will post pics when I get it! I got the no-muffler system and my Dynomax Ultra-Flo Welded mufflers got here today!
 
Well, got everything today finally, just got the manifolds back from the ceramic coating shop. They went on fine. Now I'm putting the manifold pipes on, the passengers side clears pretty easy but the driver's side looks like it's going to be close with the torsion bar and the kickdown linkage. There was a note about the 3-section kickdown linkage on the instructions, has anyone had to do that modification? I'm thinking of maybe getting a Lokar "kickdown" (throttle pressure) cable set-up since I can't do the welding to modify the bellcrank.
 
Anyone had this problem? Will a Lokar cable help me out and is it a good swap to do eventually regardless?
 
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