Bypassing ballast resistor

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74 360 dart sport

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Hi everyone 74 dodge dart is this correct for bypassing the ballast resistor thank you

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Look at the two connectors. One pair are already jumpered together. This is the end that provides power from the switch. The other connector has two wires. You only need to jumper from EITHER termialof the two power connector to whichever wire in the remaining one goes to the coil. Just look at the colors or check continuity

The 4th wire "went" to the ECU and likely was not used, anyhow, unless you have an original old "5 pin" box

The old coil wire goes now, to the "small red" of the MSD

The big black are ground and the large RED "full time" battery such as starter relay. Good idea to put a breaker, fuse in that line

I cannot tell for certain in your photo, I think this connector is power and if you look at that is already jumpered. Just unplug either end of your new jumper (leave one end in the connector) and connect the free end to what you identified as the old coil + wire in the opposite connector

jumpered.jpg


Am I old? I adapted my first Mopar breakerless ignition into my 70 340 swapped RR in about 1973

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If you look at the remaining connector "I bet" one of the terminals has one wire, and the remaining has two wires going to the same terminal. THAT IS the coil+ wire you want to connect your jumper into

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I attempted to explain this to you earlier. You do not need both jumpers. One connector has a jumper between the terminals. That is the power coming in connector. On the other connector, one of the wires goes to the old coil+ and the other goes to the old ignition box which is no longer needed
 
The two orange wires [ or are they red? ] need to be removed from the rt hand connector, spade lugs cut off, their ends stripped, & connected together, the connection then insulated to prevent contact with anything else.
 
Oh just refer to image.
Just read this so does this mean I don't need ballast I'm having trouble starting 360 727 8 3/4 swap first start up I too have a ready to run distributor and coil and can't get it to run correctly shoots fire out of carb
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Oh just refer to image.
Just read this so does this mean I don't need ballast I'm having trouble starting 360 727 8 3/4 swap first start up I too have a ready to run distributor and coil and can't get it to run correctly shoots fire out of carb
16320797924032431198151730894672.jpg
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Refer to the destructions with your new system. Some need a ballast and some do not. I cannot tell what you are doing with the relay.

To answer your question, to actually bypass the ballast on the old 2 pin ballast, all you need is a one-wire jumper between the original connectors. If however you are NOT connecting to the original coil+ wire, you will not be getting power during cranking likely

So far as "shooting fire" you have the distributor installed 1/2 turn out referred to as "180 degrees off"

To properly find the firing stroke,

Remove no1 plug. Bump engine around while holding your finger in the no1 hole. You may have to 'go round' a couple times to "get" this. When you START to feel compression, stop and look for the timing marks, then continue to "bump" or wrench the engine until the timiing marks align either with TDC or set them "about where" you want the timing, AKA 8-10 BTC or so

No install the dist, and make sure the dist. body has plenty of movement to adjust. Put no1 wire in making certain it is on the cap tower where the rotor is pointing. Install rest of wires and set timing
 
Refer to the destructions with your new system. Some need a ballast and some do not. I cannot tell what you are doing with the relay.

To answer your question, to actually bypass the ballast on the old 2 pin ballast, all you need is a one-wire jumper between the original connectors. If however you are NOT connecting to the original coil+ wire, you will not be getting power during cranking likely

So far as "shooting fire" you have the distributor installed 1/2 turn out referred to as "180 degrees off"

To properly find the firing stroke,

Remove no1 plug. Bump engine around while holding your finger in the no1 hole. You may have to 'go round' a couple times to "get" this. When you START to feel compression, stop and look for the timing marks, then continue to "bump" or wrench the engine until the timiing marks align either with TDC or set them "about where" you want the timing, AKA 8-10 BTC or so

No install the dist, and make sure the dist. body has plenty of movement to adjust. Put no1 wire in making certain it is on the cap tower where the rotor is pointing. Install rest of wires and set timing
Thank you I will try all of it
 
Pulled out number one spark plugs got to tdc took out distributor pointed at number one and put number one spark wire on cap then put wires off of that Now it's spitting gas out of carb no fire though
 
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