Cam (combination) question - Comp Cams XE268H

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glockr

glockr

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I'm wondering if this cam would work OK with my other pieces:

64 Valiant, 904 trans (stock ratios), 3.55 rear end
360 block, flat top pistons at zero deck, 596 casting heads (just a little bowl cleanup, no porting)
Intake will probably be RPM Air Gap, and open to carb recommendations.

Assuming an appropriate torque converter and suspension, are mid 13's and 16 mpg (highway) possible with that combination?

If not, what are reasonable expectations? Thanks
 
Donnt even need a verter for mid 13s 650 dp adjustable snubber
low 13s with a verter and traction
thought early a bodys were the lightest
 
Perf intake [ power band ] is better suited to the 268 cam. A TQ carb or Edel 625 AVS2.
 
kdeboy said:
So 13's possible... how about the MPG?
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mid 13s is 98 99 trap speed thats just a good stock non smog motor with a good carb and a tune traction
i like dps 16 might be a stretch hard to keep yout foot out of it
TQ could do 16 mpg 3.55s will be higher rpms hi-way how tall will the tires be
 
a-bodyguy said:
mid 13s is 98 99 trap speed thats just a good stock non smog motor with a good carb and a tune traction
i like dps 16 might be a stretch hard to keep yout foot out of it
TQ could do 16 mpg 3.55s will be higher rpms hi-way how tall will the tires be
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Not sure on the tires yet - whatever will fit I guess. Not a lot of room in the rear wheel wells. I'll find out what fits after I get the leaf springs located.
 
Should get 13s easy, pick whatever carb you are most familiar with. If fuel economy is a concern maybe not the dp - but depends how you drive i suppose
 
should make 320 hp or better if it only weighs 3100 it would scoot even with 3.23s better for mpg
225 70 14 26.4 tall = 2825 rpm is 65 with 3.23s 3100 rpms is 65mph 355s
 
kdeboy said:
Not sure on the tires yet - whatever will fit I guess. Not a lot of room in the rear wheel wells. I'll find out what fits after I get the leaf springs located.
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Are you relocating them or minitubbing ?

What headers and size are on it?
 
id run a stock 71 intake and a TQ before a performer and avs2
 
kdeboy said:
I'm wondering if this cam would work OK with my other pieces:

64 Valiant, 904 trans (stock ratios), 3.55 rear end
360 block, flat top pistons at zero deck, 596 casting heads (just a little bowl cleanup, no porting)
Intake will probably be RPM Air Gap, and open to carb recommendations.

Assuming an appropriate torque converter and suspension, are mid 13's and 16 mpg (highway) possible with that combination?

If not, what are reasonable expectations? Thanks
Click to expand...
I see that cam in the middle, below is more so called RV cams above it street strip type, it's about big as you can go before you start sacrificing bottom end for top end, should get close to 1 hp per cid.
 
273 said:
I see that cam in the middle, below is more so called RV cams above it street strip type, it's about big as you can go before you start sacrificing bottom end for top end, should get close to 1 hp per cid.
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ive got the 268h comp cam 218@50 454 110lsa in a 100k mile 68 340 weiand stealth 650 dp and a unilte had 3.23s now 3.91s
better cam then the stock 340 cam
that motor went 14.3 97 all stock 85k miles in 68 gts its in my 67 gt vert now feels 13.7 or 8 now with the carb and cam
i think its a great street cam for 3.23s
 
9.5:1 and a 750DP carb it will make in the 350HP range all day long with a good tune up and the XE268H.

3.23 gears and 245-60-14 tires was 20mpg on highway at 60MPH. The carb tune was pretty sharp. Car ran over 105 in 1/4 at 3200#
 
crackedback said:
9.5:1 and a 750DP carb it will make in the 350HP range all day long with a good tune up and the XE268H.

3.23 gears and 245-60-14 tires was 20mpg on highway at 60MPH. The carb tune was pretty sharp. Car ran over 105 in 1/4 at 3200#
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who drives 60 on the hi-way?
you subject yourself and car to everybody on the road which is dangerous today with all the jamokes who cant drive
lots of looky lous checking out the ride fools txting atleast around here anyway
vs
staying with the traffic maybe 40 cars a trip vs 1000 cars going by you
 
a-bodyguy said:
who drives 60 on the hi-way?
you subject yourself and car to everybody on the road which is dangerous today with all the jamokes who cant drive
lots of looky lous checking out the ride fools txting atleast around here anyway
vs
staying with the traffic maybe 40 cars a trip vs 1000 cars going by you
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Where I live, 75-80 is "flow of traffic" speed once you get out of town. Anything lower than 65 is dangerous. Lots of long straight roads and people in a hurry.
 
A 600 AFB will run 12's easy. I've seen that 268H run mid 12's in 3400# Sedan with 3.23's and 225's.
 
kdeboy said:
I'm wondering if this cam would work OK with my other pieces:

64 Valiant, 904 trans (stock ratios), 3.55 rear end
360 block, flat top pistons at zero deck, 596 casting heads (just a little bowl cleanup, no porting)
Intake will probably be RPM Air Gap, and open to carb recommendations.

Assuming an appropriate torque converter and suspension, are mid 13's and 16 mpg (highway) possible with that combination?

If not, what are reasonable expectations? Thanks
Click to expand...
I've run mid 12's with less in a 3300 street car. 360 with low 9.6 -1 comp, crower 31242 222/234 112, lowly performer manifold with 600 edelbrock, ported 302's, 3.73 gears and 2 dud cylinders and no fuel pressure.
 
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See post #15 for all your answers. And yes, while a performance converter isn't 100% necessary, it sure will add a lot to this combo. You'll never regret it. Just don't cheap out on it. If you don't spend 400-600 on one, you may as well run a stock reman from Dacco for 99 bucks= POS converter.
 
autoxcuda said:
Performer intakes have small 318 ports.

Why not run a performer RPM or Air Gap?
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Bewy suggested it due to the rpm range the intake was designed for along side the camshafts general rpm range. I myself would choose ether intake based on what speeds I’m driving at 90% of the time.

FWIW, in my ‘79 Magnum, sporting the 5.9, the choices at the time were the chink intake or the RPM. There is no performer intake for it but the M1 would be its equal for discussion sake. It was not available new at the time. The RPM got the job. No camshaft added.

There’s no real issue with its rated lower power band. A 1500 starting point. But there is a difference. IMO, it’s easy enough to ignore and getting the carb to act right on top.
 
RustyRatRod said:
See post #15 for all your answers. And yes, while a performance converter isn't 100% necessary, it sure will add a lot to this combo. You'll never regret it. Just don't cheap out on it. If you don't spend 400-600 on one, you may as well run a stock reman from Dacco for 99 bucks= POS converter.
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I'm leaning towards replacing the converter. What stall speed/manufacturer would you recommend? I was thinking around 2200 - 2400 stall but I have no experience with after market converters.
 
kdeboy said:
I'm leaning towards replacing the converter. What stall speed/manufacturer would you recommend? I was thinking around 2200 - 2400 stall but I have no experience with after market converters.
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2200-2400 is stock for a Chrysler product. Just keep that in mind.
 
kdeboy said:
I'm leaning towards replacing the converter. What stall speed/manufacturer would you recommend? I was thinking around 2200 - 2400 stall but I have no experience with after market converters.
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Call up a reputable converter place like Dynamic, Ultimate, Pro Torque, etc… there’s no shortage of excellent places.

Tell them everything about the car and your intentions. They will set you right up and I can say it’ll be the best money spent on the car to make it perform after the engine itself is what you want it to be.

Been there, done that, ready willing and able to do it again.
No doubt!
 
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