Mattmoto441
Well-Known Member
So i misplaced my 340 cam plate and bolts so I quickly stripped stuff off a old 318 , I believe it was a untouched engine. Is this the preferred method of cam plate install?
Cam plate question?
- Thread starter Mattmoto441
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Yes you have it right.
No, either get the bolt with the drilled hole in the top passenger hole, or leave the bolt out all together... The timing chain gets its oil from that hole...
How to Assemble the Front of a Small Block
Mattmoto441
Well-Known Member
I just went and cracked another 318 apart and it's the same no hole in the bolt and 3 bolts with a slinger , that one I know it untouched it came outta a 79 van . That hole isn't under pressure it's just a drip hole . So I'm wondering if its plugged or must get oil from elsewhere. Like the 2 larger holes directly above them
Of all the small block mopars I've disassembled, I've not found one with a hole in the bolt. I left the bolt out without issue, or I've put them back together as found without issue. You can drill a hole in it. I think the crank splash'n the oil around keeps things lubricated
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
I've found them all ways, hole, no hole, no plate and a hole..
I like to run the bolt with the hole and a plate or make one with a drill.
Make sure to use a good timing set. Dont use the edelbrock cast gear crap set for cheap.99 ..get a 90-120 set billet gears and good Japanese or USA chain. Just skip the china/Taiwan chain sets and cast gears that have the s402 on the cam gear.
I like to run the bolt with the hole and a plate or make one with a drill.
Make sure to use a good timing set. Dont use the edelbrock cast gear crap set for cheap.99 ..get a 90-120 set billet gears and good Japanese or USA chain. Just skip the china/Taiwan chain sets and cast gears that have the s402 on the cam gear.
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AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Your engine, after it's installed has a rearwards tilt of several degrees. As far as I know, liquids do not generally flow uphill. So how the oil gets onto that driptab is a mystery to me. And even if it does get on there and drip, what happens in a running engine? I'm trying to imagine how that drip tab works with oil supposedly coming thru the bolt, or down the driver's side edge.
What's on the back of that plate?
Ima thinking the oil supply comes from the front cam journal, or the lifter gallery.
What's on the back of that plate?
Ima thinking the oil supply comes from the front cam journal, or the lifter gallery.
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Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
what mo said
german and english renolds chais and Iwis
hole in the cup plug and the bolt if any rpm
german and english renolds chais and Iwis
hole in the cup plug and the bolt if any rpm
Demonic
Well-Known Member
Agreed. The tab gets oil as it leaves the front cam bearing. Plenty enough for the chain. I've has a couple 318's with well over 150 k miles on them, same tab setup. The old Mopar performance book used to show both in some versions, tab or hollow bolt.
Hole in the bolt came on 340 and HP 360 with factory double roller timing chains, and every build I do. Early LA engines had just 4 bolts, later LA engines had three bolts and oil tab.
If I had to do it over I wouldn't use a tensioner with a double roller. (not necessary with a good timing set) It was recommended to drill a 1/64" hole in the oil galley plug. I'm sure it's a oily mess under that timing cover but the deflector and front seal are doing their job.
No leaks.
![042500951507[00].jpg](https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/042500951507-00-jpg.1715557041/ "042500951507[00].jpg")
No leaks.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
This^^^^^^^is exactly what the OP needs to do, and eliminate the goofy tab.
He doesn’t need the tensioner, but a small hole in the plate or gallery plug if he is using it and the plate is how you get oil to the timing set.
All the rest of that crap is just that. Crap.
Krooser
Building Chinese Free Engines since 1959...
Your chain is upside down.....
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Where does the oil come from if you don’t get it there? Like AJ said, oil moves downhill, and under acceleration the oil moves to the rear.
I’ve seen enough worn out timing sets, fuel pump eccentrics and junked gear drives to know there is very little actual oil in there. There is a mist, but that doesn’t do much.
Used the dripper and replace the solid bolt with the bolt with the hole. Older double roller motors came with the hole . Newer motors came with a dripper and were oiled by the excess oil from the cam bearing run off.
Using both, bolt with hole and the dripper is just double oiling which is a good thing. I myself use the dripper and the bolt with hole on all builds. I also use the plate with the chamfered plate SP.
Tensioners are junk they were installed as a bandage on newer motors with cheap chains and inconsistent cam to crank spread. Throw the tensioner in the garbage they sell different length chains for this reason if your line bore is to deep. If you need a tensioner on your motor you need to get a better chain. pushing in on the slack side lengthens the pull side which changes cam timing. Sometimes you have to think of why mopar would do the tensioner . It was to absorb the cost of fixing the cam to crank spread. Much cheaper then redoing it right.
Using both, bolt with hole and the dripper is just double oiling which is a good thing. I myself use the dripper and the bolt with hole on all builds. I also use the plate with the chamfered plate SP.
Tensioners are junk they were installed as a bandage on newer motors with cheap chains and inconsistent cam to crank spread. Throw the tensioner in the garbage they sell different length chains for this reason if your line bore is to deep. If you need a tensioner on your motor you need to get a better chain. pushing in on the slack side lengthens the pull side which changes cam timing. Sometimes you have to think of why mopar would do the tensioner . It was to absorb the cost of fixing the cam to crank spread. Much cheaper then redoing it right.
I thought that was what the oil slinger ring was for, every time you slow down or turn a corner the oil sloshes forward hits the oil slinger on the crank and throws it all over the front cover and chain and not on the front seal. unless you drive like grandma you should be O.K.
The cam plate with the S P is the best IMO
The cam plate with the S P is the best IMO
Interesting that the tensioner plate in your last photo has a hole on the right side aligning with the oil galley plug.
That tensioner was taken off of a motor that was built at Shadydell speed shop. "Ryan" . The motor didn't last but one good rev after Dyno runs. So that tensioner is junk I just used it for pictures. I have no clue why he did that but most of his motors were time bombs. LOL Good Eyes your the first one that noticed that and I have used that picture several times in the past.
LOL... sometimes I get a kick out of these threads. The factory set up biggest flaw for years was a nylon cam gear. And still, many went over 100k miles. Just put a good timing set on and people go 200k miles on the factory set up of cam plate, dripper and bolts without suffering performance issues. My opinion, if your goal is to go 400k miles without removing the timing cover, then add oiling to your chain. All other cases, factory set up is fine. (has any FABO members put over 400k on their classic mopar???) People over think these things all the time.
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pishta
I know I'm right....
Ill disagree with that statement. The tension (pull) side is just that, under tension so there is no slop there as its fighting resistance from the valve train. Look at a bike or motorcycle chain under load, its straight. By taking up the whip of the slack side, your doing nothing to the timing except controlling the deceleration portion whip where the crank may overrun the cam speed and tension the slack side for a moment, there is your timing variance. Load the valve train up and shake the slack side, nothing is going to move. I'd run a tensioner and I'd even run a stronger silent type chain on it with its smooth back: nothing to dig a groove into the teflon slipper and about 200% more contact area on the cogs.
If there is slack on the tensioner side It has to come from chain stretch. If the chain is loose That means the pull side has to be longer. If it is longer that means there is a change in timing. Take the tensioner off and push one side then the other. You will see the cam sprocket move. Movement is timing change. It's a no brainer if you really think about it. I am only stating what I see after seeing many motors done at our shop.
I'm surprised my Dakota didn't have a tensioner. It could have used one. Probably the original chain. I think it had 150,000 on it when it started slapping the cover. Time for a new one.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
If you can still get them, what brand features them? Iwis maybe, mostly see "rollon" chains. I had used those aussie sets for a while but the chain stretched in very short amount of time.. so I put a tensioner on it. The mancini billet set seems legit. Had it on my 410 solid roller motor...no stretch! Unless they changed something...that's a killer set.
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