cam thoughts

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1966 dart wagon

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Hey guys, well about 2 months ago i pulled the barracuda outside to blow it off from all the dust that had collected on it from all the body work, and when i started it up it had a lifter tick. I though maybe it would go away after oil pressure came up but it didnt and now it ticks bad :( bummer o well. So i was going to replace the lifters. When i got to thinking why not just throw a cam in it to, since i'll have the intake/carb off for the intake/carb swap anyways.

What do you guys suggest as a cam, i havnt looked into it, i know i did earlier in the summer time. The motor is a lil tired 69 318 2bbl auto with the 7 1/4 rear end.The thing wont even do a burnout :( well it has new tires. I was looking for a good cam for maybe a lil more power, and im not planning on rebuilding it since it will get a 340 down the road.

I was debating i wont be running her in the higher rpms, maybe a lil drag racing once the front end is together. Maybe 6k on the revs if that. Suggestions on a cam/lifter combo kit?

thanks guys :thumbup:
 
would stay low rev as you mention. There are a lot of aftermarket cams these days with strong low end. The thing to keep in mind is more cam will most likely have even less bottom end torque - IE less likely to do a burn out.

So maybe you need something a little similar to an RV cam or a 1/2-3/4 ton truck cam. Short duration very low overlap and maybe faster ramp speed with a little higher than stock lift. Not to much cuase then you get into valve spring issues, piston clearance etc...

This will keep your engine in the 1200-4500 peak power range. Anything more will hurt the stock compression and the low end pulling power.

I also see where you are coming from too, I would not spend to much money either if you are swapping engines etc. The 318 would also like a little more carb, better intake and of course better exhaust too. But I would just patch it until I put the new engine in if I were you..:supz:
 
djwhog said:
would stay low rev as you mention. There are a lot of aftermarket cams these days with strong low end. The thing to keep in mind is more cam will most likely have even less bottom end torque - IE less likely to do a burn out.

So maybe you need something a little similar to an RV cam or a 1/2-3/4 ton truck cam. Short duration very low overlap and maybe faster ramp speed with a little higher than stock lift. Not to much cuase then you get into valve spring issues, piston clearance etc...

This will keep your engine in the 1200-4500 peak power range. Anything more will hurt the stock compression and the low end pulling power.

I also see where you are coming from too, I would not spend to much money either if you are swapping engines etc. The 318 would also like a little more carb, better intake and of course better exhaust too. But I would just patch it until I put the new engine in if I were you..:supz:
Click to expand...


thats what i was thinking a 'rv' cam, i do like the 'lumpy' idle but i think it would be useless in my sistuation...though id love to have it :p and the powerband 1200 - 4500 would probably be about what the engine has now. would like a 268 duration cam be ok, or is that even to high?

as for the not spending money. the engine already has dual exhaust with a 'turbo' mufler from what i can tell the idle sounds really good.
 
I would look at something small like the XE250 or 256. Bigger then stock but not to big.
 
I've been in similar situations in the past, a tired 273 and 318. The MP 340 replacement cam and the comp 268/454 cams work really well in these motors. I would suggest replacing the valve springs and seals, can be done with the heads on, with the MP 249 springs along with a new timing chain.. Both times using a stock converter.

Bob
 
Thanks guys for the input it will really help me out. Now that we are speaking of cams does anyone have a guide i can read to better 'decode' the cam specs, like what does lift at .50 mean i know duration and lift in general, thats mainly about it.
 
always go by .050", Theres were the duration is measure. If you go by advertised duration your not really sure were its being measure from. It could be from .006 or .020" Its hard to compare that way.
 
I love my 268/454 cam in my 318. It sounds nice but still works well with stock converter. Mine is alittle soft below 2500 since I put 360 heads on it, (that dropped compression alittle) but it will still smokem with 2.71 gears.
 
BobsDart said:
I've been in similar situations in the past, a tired 273 and 318. The MP 340 replacement cam and the comp 268/454 cams work really well in these motors. I would suggest replacing the valve springs and seals, can be done with the heads on, with the MP 249 springs along with a new timing chain.. Both times using a stock converter.

Bob
Click to expand...
I agree, there was an article on a 318 with that comp cam, and a performer intake and they said it really woke up that little motor.
 
All good input here and there are a ton of things to do or can be done to even a most basic 318 2V car, but I thought the 1st post was not much $$, and gonna replace the tired engine anyway?

My thought is kinda along Adam & others in the line of thinking, get a fast action short duration stick with lifters, do this at a buget price. I can not see changing the intake, carb, springs etc when your gonna change the engine in the near future? Not sure how far down the road, but I have been there myself and maybe it is wise to save the bigger bucks for what you really want?

" What do you guys suggest as a cam, i havnt looked into it, i know i did earlier in the summer time. The motor is a lil tired 69 318 2bbl auto with the 7 1/4 rear end.The thing wont even do a burnout well it has new tires. I was looking for a good cam for maybe a lil more power, and im not planning on rebuilding it since it will get a 340 down the road."

But if you want to put a few $$s in it then the crew all are on target and have some good input to put a little zip in the ol 318!

Just trying to help focus on the $$ aspect of a tired engine is all// anyway my 2 cents..
 
Or consider the summit brand performance cams, they have one thats probably just the ticket 214/224 and .440 lift or so, about $90. Just a thought.
 
Do you have dual exhaust yet?

What rear gears are in the car, the stock 2:93 or 2:73?
With the stock gears you don't want too large of a cam.

If not alreay on the car; spend the money on Duals first,
I would suggest 2.25" with Dynomax or Thrush Turbo mufflers.

My local Midas shop did an awesome job for me,
they went from the stock 1 7/8" inch pipe, and about a foot from the
exhaust manifold increased to 2 1/4", works nice.

I have been adding dual exhaust to small block Mopars since 1977,
the stock single exhaust Chokes these engines.

Edelbrocks Performer cam is nice for a stock 318,
it will work even with the stock 2bbl.

You should also, install new valve springs with a new cam,
which adds more money, to your project.
The Edelbrock cam, might be small enough to use the stock 318 springs IF,they are in good shape.

In my 318 I am using the Mopar 4452759 cam,
but I rebuilt my engine, with this cam in mind;
I bought some "302 heads, and had them rebuilt,
and new Valve springs installed when I built the 318 engine.

Bigger is not always Better, when it comes to camshafts.


http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL-2177&autoview=sku

Basic Operating RPM Range: Idle-5,500

Duration at 050 inch Lift: 204 int./204 exh.

Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.420 int./0.420 exh. lift

Read this page too....
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL-2177&view=512&N=700+115

Please keep the following information in mind when selecting a performance camshaft:

It is the complete vehicle package that will determine how well your vehicle satisfies your performance preference. By complete vehicle package, we mean the interaction of all of a vehicle's components and subsystems, including the engine and its related parts (such as the carburetor, intake manifold, exhaust system, camshaft, and ignition), the transmission, rear-end gears, wheel and tire combinations and diameters, and suspension pieces. All of these components must work in unison to produce the desired performance results.

First, you will need to decide what rpm power range you will be operating in most often. Because camshaft selection, as well as carburetion, manifold choice, and gearing are based on it, knowing your rpm power range is the key to building a successful vehicle package.

Be sure to purchase all of the components necessary to complete the desired vehicle package at your performance level. Remember, the further from stock you deviate in the engine department, the more modifications will be required elsewhere in the vehicle.

It is the responsibility of the installer to ensure that all of the components are correct before installation. Errors in component selection or installation procedures are not covered by warranty.

To help ensure successful camshaft performance and reliability, the following procedures should be followed:

Always install new lifters with a new or used flat tappet camshaft. Roller lifters may be reused with roller camshafts only after careful inspection for excessive lifter wear. Always use valve springs that match the camshaft manufacturer's requirements for open and closed seat pressures at the correct installed height. Other valvetrain components may be required (screw-in rocker arm studs, pushrod guideplates, hardened pushrods, special distributor drive gear, etc.), depending upon the profile of the cam you choose.

Every camshaft includes installation instructions and break-in procedures. It is critical that these instructions are followed precisely. (These guidelines are not a substitute for the installation or break-in instructions.)

Use only the approved, manufacturer-recommended assembly lubricant. Assembly lubricant must be applied to every cam lobe surface, and to the bottom of every lifter face on all flat tappet cams. Also, be sure to apply assembly lubricant to the distributor drive gears on the cam and distributor for all camshafts.

NOTE: Many camshaft manufacturers do not recommend the use of synthetic oil during the break-in period. It is also not recommended to use any type of oil restrictors to the lifter galley, windage trays, or baffles, or plug any oil return holes in the lifter valley. Oil has a twofold purpose; it not only lubricates, but it also draws the heat away from whatever it comes in contact with. The cam needs oil splash from the crankcase and oil run-back from the top of the engine to help draw the heat away. Without this oil flow, all the heat generated at the cam is transferred to the lifter, which can contribute to premature wear and/or failure.

The following Mechanical operating clearances must always be verified to ensure the service life of the camshaft:
Spring coil bind clearance
Retainer to seal/valve guide boss clearance
Piston to valve clearance
Rocker arm slot to stud clearance
Camshaft endplay
Distributor shaft and gear endplay
Connecting rod to cam clearance
Proper hydraulic lifter pre-load
Proper valvetrain geometry
Click to expand...
 
I have allways liked the solid lifter style cams. I would maybe get a cam from mopar performance in the purple shaft series . I would also suggest the Mopar engine 8th edition book I refer to as the "bible" that has alot of info including camshaft specs,part#'s,and detail to detail of how to rebuild your engine with very in depth chapters and history of the small block,bigblock,/6, even the mighty hemi,older 318,277,[sometimes referred to as big block,y block, but it is actually a polyspere]It' s a little old but chock full of great info! SORRY I'M RAMBLING AGAIN.
 
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