Camshaft Removal

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Rumblin_440

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Ok guys I have a 75 440 I have the engine on a stand and I'm trying to remove camshaft without a complete dis-assembly of the engine. I know I have to remove fuel pump and actuator, Oil pump and distributor. Any helpful info is greatly appreciated.
 
Changing a camshaft is by no means just a simple part swap. If done incorrectly you will end up with serious engine damage. Don't take this the wrong way, but I highly recommend that you get a little more educated before attempting this.

"How to Rebuild the Big-Block Mopar" by Arvid Svendsen would be a good start. It's available on Amazon and is less than $20. This book will take you through the process of rebuilding an engine from start to finish and includes a lot of great photos. It'll definitely help you get your old cam out and a new one in.

The Svendsen book is a little limited when it comes to degreeing a new cam, measuring pushrods, break-in procedures (extremely important!), etc. For all of that I recommend the excellent articles on the Hughes Engines website. Here are their instructions for installing a cam:

[ame]http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/productInstructions/camshaftsinstallJuly2013X.pdf[/ame]

It is well worth your time to read through all of this. Wiped cam lobes are a pain in the *** and often require a complete rebuild. Good luck with your project and if you have any more questions I know that many people on this forum will be happy to help.
 
I have a couple books on rebuilding big block chrysler engines and have disassembled engines before this is just my first time not fully dis assembling the engine. I will check out those articles on hughes website tho. Thank you for the info.
 
After you pull the timing chain off, put the gear back on the camshaft to help you guide it back out of the bearings. The gear will help you control the camshaft as you remove it.
 
Ok guys ran into a couple problems with the camshaft. First things first I went off and removed the timing chain without putting engine at TDC so pretty big problem there bc the cam is already out. Onto next problem while trying to install new cam I can get it all the way in until the last journal then its like i hit a wall I can't get it to go any further. Whats the hold up? Any help you guys can provide will be greatly appreciated right now.
 
Put cam gear on to help keep the cam level while putting it in. VERY close tolerances from cam to cam bearings make it a bugger to get in.
 
Put both the cam and crank sprockets with the dot pointing straight up. That will be TDC for #1. BUT, depending on the cam you also might want to degree it, check piston-valve clearance, etc.
 
Ok thank you very much. I bought cloyes double roller timing set and howards cam. Just got the new cam in not sure what to do next tho.
 
Put both the cam and crank sprockets with the dot pointing straight up. That will be TDC for #1. BUT, depending on the cam you also might want to degree it, check piston-valve clearance, etc.

I agree with Jim. For a basic install, this is the way it would done. Keep in mind that doing this over the net is really difficult because, as said before, so many variables come into play. There's been no mention of springs either??? Give us the kit# and let us know if it's just a replacement deal or a big upgrade? We're here to help, and all the info you can give will make it easier on the one's giving advise and yourself.
 
HRS-CL721941-12 is the cam and lifter kit that I bought from summit some of the other members on another thread mentioned it. Never said anything about new springs figured it wasn't to much of a huge upgrade otherwise I'm sure they wouldve said something about it.
 
No question that cam needs better than stock springs and to check piston-valve clearance.
 
You won't notice if it's only too close. In operation you can expect clearances to get tighter for a number of reasons. Also, if those are stock springs they WILL allow the valves to float and WILL allow valves to hit pistons.
 
Well this has turned into a much bigger job then I wouldve liked to done I told the guys on the build threadthat this was just gonna be a work truck with occasional pulls. Didn't think they would send me down this road.
 
I've put the pushrods and rocker arms back on and turned engine over multiple times and didn't notice any problems.

I don't mean to pile on here, but turning the engine over multiple times isn't a good idea either. I'm sure you put a generous supply of assembly lube on the cam lobes before setting the lifters in, right? Turning the engine over wipes the lube away leaving them vulnerable to failure. It is extremely important to have the engine start immediately at the first few turns of the key. This allows the engine to start lubricating the cam from oil flying off of the crankshaft. Cam lobes are not directly oiled by a passage. They get oil drained on them from the lifter valley and from what flies off of the crank. Spinning the engine either by hand or with the starter produces zero oiling to the cam lobes.
Don't get discouraged. I have been in your position and I got through it. :salute:
 
Yes I piled on the assembly lube and by multiple I only meant about 3 to 3.5 times and of course its still by hand as I have not yet put the engine in the truck now that I'm learning of all these extra steps I didn't see coming.
 
I'm learning of all these extra steps I didn't see coming.

I find this quote sorta funny because it is such a common thing with me as well.
When i was degreeing my cam in my 440/493, I had a hard time spinning the engine over by hand. Later I asked if the spark plugs are supposed to be out. Some people probably laughed to themselves at that. The fact is, there are always things that you do not know to do unless you have done it before.
 
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