Can someone tell me where did this Holley 1920 come from?

-
1966DartConvertible

1966DartConvertible

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2010
Messages
516
Reaction score
21
Location
Malaysia
Hi

The number on the float bowl cover is 12R2597B, no LIST number evident.

The list I get off the net does not show any 2597. Can anyone help identify if this carb is for my slant six dart?

Cheers

Syed
 
The 12R… number is a casting number on the carb body (not the float bowl cover); it cannot identify your carb. Sometimes the type number is not preceded by the word "LIST", but I have never seen a Holley 1920 on which the type number was absent. Please do post some pics and look in the correct place for the number:

1920number.gif
 
64-72 used the 1920,they just started adding vacume lines to it after 69. I've never noticed any differences in the manual or auto carbs,it may just be a #'s thing
 
didn't the 66 and earlier slant 6 carbs use a rod for the throttle linkage ? that one looks like it's designed for a cable . Just my observation 8)
 
Sedanman said:
64-72 used the 1920
Click to expand...

First year for the 1920 was 1962. Last year for it was 1973. There were many differences — some significant, some trivial — in Holley 1920 carbs across that year range and throughout the different applications (auto/manual, car/truck/van, with or without A/C, various emission packages, etc.).

I've never noticed any differences in the manual or auto carbs
Click to expand...

Internal calibration, location of spark advance port within carb throat, sometimes presence/absence of dashpot.
 
yellow68runner said:
didn't the 66 and earlier slant 6 carbs use a rod for the throttle linkage?
Click to expand...

'60-'61 big-car and '60-'66 left-hand-drive A-body slant-6 applications except '65-'66 A-body with factory A/C used a rotating-rod throttle linkage. All others used a cable including most but not all variants of the right-hand-drive A-bodies.

The carb in the eBay auction is a '62-'63 Holley 1920, not a 1964 unit, originally intended for use in a B-body with crankcase ventilation (PCV) which was optional in all states exept CA and NY (where it was mandatory) in '62, standard in all 50 states + Canada for '63. With the type number which will be stamped on the carb body where indicated in the photo I posted, I can be more specific about the carb's original application. This carb is not equipped with the throttle lever that accepts the rotating-rod throttle linkage of a pre-'67 A-body. It will work on a '65-'66 A-body with factory A/C, it will work on any RHD or LHD car originally equipped (or retrofitted) with a cable-type accelerator, and there is a (now scarce) adaptor piece that bolts onto the throttle lever of a carb like this and provides the hookup for the rotating rod.

I've had good success with these pre-'64 1920s. Seems to me some of the design changes made for '64 were aimed more at cost reduction than functional improvement. That does not mean that this particular carburetor is necessarily a good one, and when I see carbs covered in silver spray paint it makes my beard stand on end. At the very least you'd want to put a good quality kit in it (such as the one with the redesigned inlet needle/seat assembly from Daytona Parts Company). Careful when buying a kit; it seems there is an error in the cataloguing system used by many vendors and ordering a kit for one of these '62-'63 carbs gets you the kit for the '64-up carb. That won't work; the accelerator pump and main well gasket assembly are totally different and there are some other incompatibilities.

Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.
 
I'm trying to figure out how the bowl vent is supposed to work on that carb....
 
cudamark said:
I'm trying to figure out how the bowl vent is supposed to work on that carb....
Click to expand...

Just like a percussionist's high-hat cymbal. There's a link rod that runs vertically up thru the carb body (not thru the float bowl) and lifts the "hat" valve off the bowl vent when the throttle is at idle position.
 
slantsixdan said:
'60-'61 big-car and '60-'66 left-hand-drive A-body slant-6 applications except '65-'66 A-body with factory A/C used a rotating-rod throttle linkage. All others used a cable including most but not all variants of the right-hand-drive A-bodies.

The carb in the eBay auction is a '62-'63 Holley 1920, not a 1964 unit, originally intended for use in a B-body with crankcase ventilation (PCV) which was optional in all states exept CA and NY (where it was mandatory) in '62, standard in all 50 states + Canada for '63. With the type number which will be stamped on the carb body where indicated in the photo I posted, I can be more specific about the carb's original application. This carb is not equipped with the throttle lever that accepts the rotating-rod throttle linkage of a pre-'67 A-body. It will work on a '65-'66 A-body with factory A/C, it will work on any RHD or LHD car originally equipped (or retrofitted) with a cable-type accelerator, and there is a (now scarce) adaptor piece that bolts onto the throttle lever of a carb like this and provides the hookup for the rotating rod.

I've had good success with these pre-'64 1920s. Seems to me some of the design changes made for '64 were aimed more at cost reduction than functional improvement. That does not mean that this particular carburetor is necessarily a good one, and when I see carbs covered in silver spray paint it makes my beard stand on end. At the very least you'd want to put a good quality kit in it (such as the one with the redesigned inlet needle/seat assembly from Daytona Parts Company). Careful when buying a kit; it seems there is an error in the cataloguing system used by many vendors and ordering a kit for one of these '62-'63 carbs gets you the kit for the '64-up carb. That won't work; the accelerator pump and main well gasket assembly are totally different and there are some other incompatibilities.

Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.
Click to expand...

Hi Dan,

Thanks for the enlightening explanation :) I guess I'll just stick to my current Solex 1bbl... and get the 1920 when Im sure im getting the right one for my car. After all, why fix if it ain't broke?

Syed
 
Syed
Dan may still have some NOS 1920 carbs. If not I have several serviceable ones on pre 67 A bodys.
Side note did you ever find a freight forwarder?
Frank
 
66aCUDA said:
Syed
Dan may still have some NOS 1920 carbs. If not I have several serviceable ones on pre 67 A bodys.
Side note did you ever find a freight forwarder?
Frank
Click to expand...

Hey Frank thanks.

No I dont think i will need a FF as Ive got most of the parts already, except as i said earlier, set of shocks and rubber/weatherstripping stuff. Engine-wise im all good.

Oh serviceable 1920s sound good, I dont need NOS really, a working one is good enough. How much do you want for a serviceable 1920? While ur at it, mind checking how much to ship it over? :) Usually most 1920s on Ebay charge about 35-40 bucks USPS to Malaysia.

Thanks

Syed
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top