Car stalls after Warm

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seitz

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Have 1970 340 Duster Auto running a Carter carb mild cam 10:! Comp car runs great for about 4 miles then will stall out if i put in neutral it will not stall if i pump gas pedal in drive it will stay running
i know its a fuel issue just cant pin point, new fuel filter fuel lines are all new front to back, Fuel lines are routed per factor. I was thinking vapour lock but i think its something else. I drove 20 miles a couple weeks ago
and thats when it started after the 20 miles. now its after a couple miles. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thks
 
seitz said:
i will put some air to it and try that im open to any ideas lol thanksbe
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That tank is vented through a small tube on the filler neck. It terminates in the L/R frame rail. Could be plugged there.
 
seitz said:
Have 1970 340 Duster Auto running a Carter carb mild cam 10:! Comp car runs great for about 4 miles then will stall out if i put in neutral it will not stall if i pump gas pedal in drive it will stay running
i know its a fuel issue just cant pin point, new fuel filter fuel lines are all new front to back, Fuel lines are routed per factor. I was thinking vapour lock but i think its something else. I drove 20 miles a couple weeks ago
and thats when it started after the 20 miles. now its after a couple miles. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thks
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Filter sock on sending unit pickup degraded and plugging line??
 
Mechanical fuel pump? loses prime or pressure, but then you can keep it running on the accelerator pump? do you have a fuel pressure gauge on it? I have bought/seen more than 1 bad pump out of the box.
 
Johnny Mac said:
Mechanical fuel pump? loses prime or pressure, but then you can keep it running on the accelerator pump? do you have a fuel pressure gauge on it? I have bought/seen more than 1 bad pump out of the box.
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mechanical and yes it’s 2nd new one i thought first one was bad so installed another new one but its same never somthing so simple lol
 
Has the carburetor been tuned for the engine? A "mild cam" to that carburetor might be an issue at idle and high vacuum times like cruising. It should have step up springs that match the engine's vacuum at idle. If the engine has idle vacuum lower than stock, it can cause the metering rods to bounce after the engine is warmed up.
 
seitz said:
going to check that in morning hope thats the issie
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Drive it around with the fuel cap off, just watch the right hand turns!

If it's a venting issue that will prove it.



Just a thought.

If you have a big vacuum leak, while the choke is closed ( first few minutes) if is satisfied. But when the choke is open the vacuum leak caused a too lean condition and the engine dies.
 
Check idle mixture screw adjustment. Sounds like it could be starving for fuel when your foot is not on the gas pedal. I had that going on and about 1/8-1/4 turn out on the idle mixture screws solved it.

If that isn’t the symptom and doesn’t fix it your carb is out of adjustment somewhere else or another issue is going on.
 
I do not think this is a blocked vent issue after only 4 miles. I see clues however: new fuel lines, runs ok for 4 miles.

I would be checking for debris under the carb needle & seats causing flooding. A rich mix mixture for a cold engine might explain why it runs ok for 4 miles, but is then too rich once warmed up & then stalls. Pumping the pedal when hot is adding more air, enough to maintain combustion.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Drive it around with the fuel cap off, just watch the right hand turns!

If it's a venting issue that will prove it.



Just a thought.

If you have a big vacuum leak, while the choke is closed ( first few minutes) if is satisfied. But when the choke is open the vacuum leak caused a too lean condition and the engine dies.
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yes i actually did drive with cap off last week and it was still the same and no Vac leaks detected
 
Bewy said:
I do not think this is a blocked vent issue after only 4 miles. I see clues however: new fuel lines, runs ok for 4 miles.

I would be checking for debris under the carb needle & seats causing flooding. A rich mix mixture for a cold engine might explain why it runs ok for 4 miles, but is then too rich once warmed up & then stalls. Pumping the pedal when hot is adding more air, enough to maintain combustion.
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Thank you i will try that i does start up after stalling but it has to crank a bit brfore it goes so it could be flooding rather than starving







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Wvbuzzmaster said:
Check idle mixture screw adjustment. Sounds like it could be starving for fuel when your foot is not on the gas pedal. I had that going on and about 1/8-1/4 turn out on the idle mixture screws solved it.

If that isn’t the symptom and doesn’t fix it your carb is out of adjustment somewhere else or another issue is going on.
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i have played with idle mixture i dont seem to help but i will take it out today and when it tries to stall out all give the screw a turn and see if it make a difference thanks
 
IDK. It sounds to me like a carb adjustment problem. Try and adjust idle timing and mixture when the engine is hot.
 
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i have taken crab apart and cleaned everything up on seat was sticking and fuel was not coming out properly and the carb was gummed up a bit so i have cleaned it all up put it back on car fired up much better than i was when cold have not hacked a chance to go for drive but going to take it out in morning fingers crossed this solves the problem all post if it does thanks for all the suggestions for far
 
seitz said:
i have taken crab apart and cleaned everything up on seat was sticking and fuel was not coming out properly and the carb was gummed up a bit so i have cleaned it all up put it back on car fired up much better than i was when cold have not hacked a chance to go for drive but going to take it out in morning fingers crossed this solves the problem all post if it does thanks for all the suggestions for far
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seitz said:
i have taken crab apart and cleaned everything up on seat was sticking and fuel was not coming out properly and the carb was gummed up a bit so i have cleaned it all up put it back on car fired up much better than i was when cold have not hacked a chance to go for drive but going to take it out in morning fingers crossed this solves the problem all post if it does thanks for all the suggestions for far
Click to expand...
 
seitz said:
Have 1970 340 Duster Auto running a Carter carb mild cam 10:! Comp car runs great for about 4 miles then will stall out if i put in neutral it will not stall if i pump gas pedal in drive it will stay running
i know its a fuel issue just cant pin point, new fuel filter fuel lines are all new front to back, Fuel lines are routed per factor. I was thinking vapour lock but i think its something else. I drove 20 miles a couple weeks ago
and thats when it started after the 20 miles. now its after a couple miles. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thks
Click to expand...
so i took carb apart cleaned it up one needle was not opening so fixed car does run better but still having the stalling issue i am going try replace yo rubber lines once again another fuel pump i guess not sure what else to do everything on this car is brand new
 
well after a new fuel pump installed I still had no fuel put the car on my Hoist and was going to pull the sending unit and notice the short rubber line that goes from tank to the steel gas line had a kink in it restricting the fuel. I guess it must have had a small kink and with bumps and what not got worse. I added a new longer piece and routed it so that it can kink this time went fo a long drive and problem solved. Such little things can lead to such frustration LOl.. Thanks again for all the suggestions from everyone
 
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