Carb rebuild HELP!

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Troub

67 Dart 270, 225 slant six
Joined
Jul 25, 2018
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Location
Florida
so I’m attempting my first carb rebuild. Holley 1920.....as in I’m attempting it right now.....all going well until this small ring fell out and I don’t know where it came from. I was removing the needle and seat when I saw it on the paper although that doesn’t mean anything I guess....
can anyone identify and place it?

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Ahhh, does it go here? In the metering block? With a check ball?

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And another question..... watching Mikes Carbs video on disassembly of the 1920 he has a spring (#24 in the diagram pic attached).....I did not have that spring in there between the metering block/economizer body and the pump diaphragm assembly. Is it because my 1920 has the flat head vs the round head on the pump diaphragm or should I still have that in there? My pump diaphragm also doesn’t have a check ball which I assume is due to its flatness as there is nowhere for it to sit.
Sorry for all the questions but it’s my first rebuild.

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Was this carb off of a running engine ? Or a loose carb that you are hoping was working correctly. How complete is your rebuild kit or is it just a gasket kit ? Pictures are not always exact as parts change over time and the pictures don't.
 
Was this carb off of a running engine ? Or a loose carb that you are hoping was working correctly. How complete is your rebuild kit or is it just a gasket kit ? Pictures are not always exact as parts change over time and the pictures don't.
Leo,
Carb is off my running Dart, I was having stalling issues, hence the rebuild. Rebuild kit is from Mikes Carburetors so it’s pretty complete.
 
Was this carb off of a running engine ? Or a loose carb that you are hoping was working correctly. How complete is your rebuild kit or is it just a gasket kit ? Pictures are not always exact as parts change over time and the pictures don't.
So apparently that checkball and seal ring do go in the economizer/metering block but there should also be a spring in that port, which is missing. Mikes Carb does not have as he said that the block is usually never taken apart. As the ring and ball just fell out when I pulled the economizer body out I’m guessing a
Previous rebuild left it out. I will try and see if a carb spring set from local parts store has one that will fit. Some before and after cleaning photos.....

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Last edited:
Empty your inbox. Trying to message you. We are both in Fl, might be close enough, for you to pick up some pieces from me. Message me.
 
So apparently that checkball and seal ring do go in the economizer/metering block but there should also be a spring in that port, which is missing. Mikes Carb does not have as he said that the block is usually never taken apart. As the ring and ball just fell out when I pulled the economizer body out I’m guessing a
Previous rebuild left it out. I will try and see if a carb spring set from local parts store has one that will fit. Some before and after cleaning photos.....

View attachment 1715278752

View attachment 1715278753
Mike’s Carbs came through as usual. The power valve spring part 66-123 will work.
 
Mike’s Carbs came through as usual. The power valve spring part 66-123 will work.
Just a quick note for others thinking of or are rebuilding same holley type Carb - depending on 1960's year model /6 there were THREE 3 DIFFERENT TYPES of those shaped Accel Pump Diaphragms with actuating lever/arm attached : Mid model in I think '64 there was early & late & punched holes are in different places if your buying a modern generic kit just be careful. Because over time people did swapout carbs 1 for another too so before buttoning up double check both your old Accel pump diaphragm/gasket & the new one
There's also a slight difference in length of the actuating are IF mrnt for a Ford Truck or IHC if memory serves me correctly (& yes you need that spring that fronts up to it too) - as earlier suggested be cautious if swap meet type carb buy/core rather than off a running car: parts could be missing. If your having stalling, poor idle flat spotting low down its an absolute you make sure the idle air bleeds down carb throat are absolutely cleaned with carb cleaner & compressed air..causes a multitude of sins IF partially blocked or internally gummed up.
Good luck. Trev
 
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