carboned valve seats

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ltrripp11

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what seems to be the most effective way to remove excess carbon from the valve seats without removing the heads. specificly what cleaner and what tecnique to apply it. i know a good highway run but something beyond that. i have been using techron 3 in the fuel tank which has helped (upped compresssion) but is there a more effective and quicker solution??
 
Water injection is the fastest way to remove carbon. Ever seem an engine with a blown head gasket with the head removed? It is easy to tell which cylinder it was, it is clean as a whistle.
 
I can vouch for that from the weekend - #7 piston clean as in brand new.
Hot antifreeze works/cleans great. %^&*()_ :evil2:
 
The oldest trick I know of is to bring the motor up to operating temp for a few minutes and to pour cold water through the carb till it starts to stall out. Then let the motor recover and clear itself out. Repeat. The motor should be held up around 3,000rpm or so. It's better to pour a small trickle then to just dump it.
 
adding starting fluid while running
advancing the timing too far then
flogging the thunder out of it.
you can usually check for carbon by
looking through the window in the
side of the block after your run. :drinkers:

liquids don,t often compress well.
they usually break the ring landing or crack a piston,
lift a head, something along those lines.
if your lucky
i wouldn't chance it.
 
Ever hear of it before? Ever flooded an engine with gasoline?<----it's a liquid
I didn't say dump a gallon of water all at once. Just a trickle small stream, if it would kill a car everytime water got near it you wouldn't be able to drive in the rain. Water sprayed into a motor under high load properly can actually increase hp. Long known fact, also used in high output motors under high boost applications.
 
Dartwagon is right on, the oldest trick is to run the engine up to around 3K and trickle water down the carb. It`s very effective and safe if you use it in moderation.
 
yep,i replaced a rod and piston in a ferd toreass about a
year ago due to hydro lock.
i also have rebuilt many boat motors for a marina
that have ingested "a little" water.
most engines won't tolerate swallowing liquids as they don't compress.
i could not advise someone to add water,trans. fluid or solvents
it would be a guess as to how much an engine could stand
not to mention possible damage to convertors,sensors and internals.
as to flooding most engines do not run well after this condition as it
fractures the porcelain on the center electrode in the spark plug
in severe cases requiring plug replacement.
i just think it would be better to not to take the risk if you don't
have experience doing this or know the "trickle" rate. not all reading
this thread have the benefit of your years of experience. some are new
to the car world and might try this on dad's late model. :silent:
just my opinion,
longarm
 
I have always used a spray bottle, all you really need is a fine mist. that way its almost impossible to get to much in the cylinders. and it still does the job....you may have to do it more times to get it real clean, but its better than creating a hydro lock.
 
Longarm`s got a point, we don`t want to tell novices to pour water through their engines which could result in failure to one or more parts, only that because water does not compress, it makes an excellent combustion chamber cleaner. The bottom line is if you are not familiar with this method DON`T use it, and if you must then also use common sense.
 
Right on with your bottom line longgone. This method works well but some probably shouldn't use it. Ain't it funny how that common sense thing keeps poppin' up?
 
i get the picture fellas and understand both sides. a "fine mist" would seem perfectly safe and no different then the well known water injection used in racing etc. i never would of guessed it would make a good cleaner however. that kind of surprises me. the poring method "will not be used" so fear not. thanks.
 
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