Cast v Forged Crank

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jimbo17

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I have a 410 small block with eagle cast 4 inch crank and cast flat top pistons. The crank broke the other day but I was able to source an eagle steel 4 inch crank locally. Are these any good as I do not want to brake another crank. on the Hughes web site they list it good for 1400 HP. My engine currently makes about 500HP. I am also going to change the pistons to SRP forged, dished pistons that are listed at 10.3 comp with my 65cc eddy heads. Are these pistons OK as I am upgrading my heads at the same time with bigger valves and a performace valve job. I want it to be strong as one day I might put a dose of nitros in it and want it to be able to handle about 600HP. What do you guys think?
 
The Eagle steel cranks are good, I have one in my 410 stroker and I'm making power somewhere north of 500hp. I have heard nothing but bad things about their cast cranks though.
 
I've had no issues with the Eagle cast 3.58 stroke cranks. I've also been using the SRP flattop pistons, which are nice & light. Probe are light as well and a bit less expensive. But double-check the configuration of the SRP's you mentioned. I've seen flat-tops listed as flattop/inverted dome. The 10.3-1 compression with 65 cc chambers sounds like it would be a flattop.
 
There's more to it than horse power rating. Deflection at rpm and the quality of the balancer are huge factors. Forged steel will have less deflection and more adequately utilize the balancer too. That's what I was told anyway.
 
There is a good number of broken Eagle crank stories on all forums, GM, Ford, Etc. No its not a Scat or Callies. Of course how many of these engines were not balanced properly is another matter. Chances are you will be fine.
 
The forged steel cranks are ok, just check the journals for taper and size, as I have seen a few that had to be reground. Eagle stuff is machined off-shore and sometimes they do have quality issues.
 
I used a Eagle forged in a buddies 418 a few yrs. ago and it had to be re-ground right out of the box. Had too much taper. My suggestion is to get a Molnar. I recently got one NIB for $650 shipped. It was a special though.

Add me to the list of broken eagle cast cranks. The one in my very mild 408 broke about 3 months ago. Running super light Wiseco Pro-tru pistons, SCAT rods. All properly balanced and only making about 450 hp and never revved over 6000 rpm. Snapped right between the #1 rod journal and front main. Replacing it with the above mentioned Molnar.
 
Dang, they all seem to break there. Wonder how long mines going to last @ ~425 ? :-( They got a big *** balance hole there that doesnt seem to be centered, bigger thrust side? I had to chamfer my bearings too.
 

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Dang, they all seem to break there. Wonder how long mines going to last @ ~425 ? :-( They got a big *** balance hole there that doesnt seem to be centered, bigger thrust side? I had to chamfer my bearings too.

I haven't seen any pics but that's what I've heard too. I could be wrong but don't think the big hole is for balancing, I think it's to lighten the crank. The Molnar crank I just bought has a much smaller hole so it's thicker in that area. I got super lucky it never tore anything else up when mine broke. I even had mine magnafluxed before installing it. No one around me could x-ray it or I would have done that. Good luck with yours
 

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I haven't seen any pics but that's what I've heard too. I could be wrong but don't think the big hole is for balancing, I think it's to lighten the crank. The Molnar crank I just bought has a much smaller hole so it's thicker in that area. I got super lucky it never tore anything else up when mine broke. I even had mine magnafluxed before installing it. No one around me could x-ray it or I would have done that. Good luck with yours

Sorry to hear about your break Tracy. I guess they don't just don't make stuff like they use too!
 
The hole is to balance, but its from them. They needed to get the bobweight to 2250. The 340 steel crank has it in the same location to offset the heavier rods they hung on an otherwise 273 forging. Forged cranks are usually a tad heavier as the steel used is denser. The 340 cast was stuck with that huge weighted balancer when it went to a lighter cast crank.
 
I have a 410 small block with eagle cast 4 inch crank and cast flat top pistons. The crank broke the other day but I was able to source an eagle steel 4 inch crank locally. Are these any good as I do not want to brake another crank. on the Hughes web site they list it good for 1400 HP. My engine currently makes about 500HP. I am also going to change the pistons to SRP forged, dished pistons that are listed at 10.3 comp with my 65cc eddy heads. Are these pistons OK as I am upgrading my heads at the same time with bigger valves and a performace valve job. I want it to be strong as one day I might put a dose of nitros in it and want it to be able to handle about 600HP. What do you guys think?

Don't take this any way: How, did it break? Any pictures, possible? This could help .....
 
Flatlander Racing has the K1 forged crank for $630 (awesome price for a nice crank IMO). You don't hear about them much in the Mopar world (well I haven't anyway), but they're considered a step or two above Scat, Eagle, etc in the Chevy world.

http://flatlanderracing.com/
 
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Broken eagle crank get in line
« on: March 23, 2012, 06:43:21 PM »
only 6000 miles I guess a stroker needs a forged crank
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Re: Broken eagle crank get in line
« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2012, 07:07:26 PM »
WOW, sorry to hear that!

I just bought a cast stroker crank from HiPoTek made by SCAT.

From my phone calls to Eagle and Scat before my purchase, I did gather a bit of info that helped me make my decision on what to buy.

When I called Eagle:
They said their cranks are cast and machined in china...

When I called Scat:
They said there cranks were cast in china but machined in Illinois.

Both companies seems reluctant to tell me the truth and it seemed like they heard my question a 1000 times before. Its too bad we can't get a Made in USA crankshaft for these motors unless its custom. Confused
« Last Edit: March 23, 2012, 07:08:51 PM by magnumman » Logged
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Re: Broken eagle crank get in line
« Reply #2 on: March 25, 2012, 07:23:24 PM »
Dont feel bad,mine broke at 6000 miles,snout broke off,they wouldn`t warranty it,so I went with Scat myself.
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Re: Broken eagle crank get in line
« Reply #3 on: March 26, 2012, 02:38:43 AM »
Who make the chrysler heavy duty cast cranks, I got 1?
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MP408
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Re: Broken eagle crank get in line
« Reply #4 on: March 26, 2012, 11:39:50 AM »
I read on anothersite its made by scat..





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Re: Broken eagle crank get in line
« Reply #5 on: March 26, 2012, 06:48:54 PM »
Quote from: Lee Peterson on March 26, 2012, 02:38:43 AM
Who make the chrysler heavy duty cast cranks, I got 1?

Quote from: MP408 on March 26, 2012, 11:39:50 AM
I read on anothersite its made by scat..


Yes as far as I can find the mopar performance cranks are made by Scat
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Re: Broken eagle crank get in line
« Reply #6 on: March 27, 2012, 03:43:44 PM »
I wish Mopar would make these stroker cranks for themselves on this side of the pond.
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Re: Broken eagle crank get in line
« Reply #7 on: March 28, 2012, 12:20:52 AM »
Bad luck. Cast is okay, depends on the horsepower level. Of course faulty parts could fail at any level.
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Re: Broken eagle crank get in line
« Reply #8 on: March 28, 2012, 06:07:13 PM »
faulty parts can break at any power level, but I've read about more broken Eagle cast cranks than any other crank.

yet, their forged cranks seem to live just fine
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Re: Broken eagle crank get in line
« Reply #9 on: December 29, 2012, 07:54:58 AM »
Finally pulled it apart looks like all the others that break in the same exact spot.

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Re: Broken eagle crank get in line
« Reply #10 on: December 29, 2012, 08:00:34 AM »
Extra parts?

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Re: Broken eagle crank get in line
« Reply #11 on: December 29, 2012, 08:15:31 AM »
Friends don't let Friend buy EAGLE Parts!!!

Too many quality parts out there for not much more money to mess around with parts that have a Bad Rep!!

You're not going to find a crank that is American made unless you buy Billet. All the Forgings come from overseas PERIOD. That was what Callies Cranks told me when I asked. They expected it wouldn't be long before the Billets would all be import as well.

Now if you want one that is made in America (South America) {not sure where} BPE @ Moparts.com and K1-Tech both get theres from down south and they are spot on with the machine work and None have failed that I have heard of.

Around $695 for a 4.00-4.250 Forged Stroker Crank!!! Not a bad deal!!

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Re: Broken eagle crank get in line
« Reply #12 on: December 29, 2012, 10:52:37 AM »
yeah my kid is back bugging me about which 4" crank to get for the 318/390 he wants to build; I have never bought a stroker crank myself (yet) but even if machined here, Scat's are still "made" in China too... yuk
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Re: Broken eagle crank get in line
« Reply #13 on: December 29, 2012, 05:41:44 PM »
It's only going to get worse as far as China junk engine components or anything cast or forged with the regulations being imposed on steel making facilities thanks to our wonderful president. My brother is the head heavy equipment mechanic for a metal recycler he was on unlimited overtime now he's on 32 hours because of the Obama regulations on anything that puts a light puff of smoke up in the air, too bad there's no regulations on the "load" he leaves behind whenever he speaks.
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Re: Broken eagle crank get in line
« Reply #14 on: December 29, 2012, 09:37:45 PM »
so what crank to buy??? i've looking at them.
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Flatlander Racing has the K1 forged crank for $630 (awesome price for a nice crank IMO). You don't hear about them much in the Mopar world (well I haven't anyway), but they're considered a step or two above Scat, Eagle, etc in the Chevy world.

http://flatlanderracing.com/

Flatlander has a great reputation around here. I have never personally used them but friends of mine have and they are fully satisfied.
 
Flatlander has a great reputation around here. I have never personally used them but friends of mine have and they are fully satisfied.

They must have changed a lot then. About 6 or 7 yrs. ago they screwed me around all over a $100 oil pan. Ordered one for a SB Mopar and got one for a BB Ford. The boss wouldn't talk to me. Always put me onto his secretary who'd tell me the boss was out and she couldn't do anything. Had to file a credit card claim to get my money back.:wack:
 
Flatlander Racing has the K1 forged crank for $630 (awesome price for a nice crank IMO). You don't hear about them much in the Mopar world (well I haven't anyway), but they're considered a step or two above Scat, Eagle, etc in the Chevy world.

http://flatlanderracing.com/

That's what I paid for my Molnar. My machinist said it was really machined well. Not positive but I think Tom Molnar produces the K1 cranks also
 
I have heard a of a lot of issues with Eagle cranks and rods. I bought an Eagle stroker crank and the rods were out of spec. My machinist corrected the problem, but I will never buy another Eagle product. My machinist swears by Scat parts. Both are made in China, but Scat has better QA/QC. Both make cranks are supposed to handle up to 600 HP, but I would trust the Scat to 600. The Eagle would be pushing it at 500 HP IMHO.
 
They must have changed a lot then. About 6 or 7 yrs. ago they screwed me around all over a $100 oil pan. Ordered one for a SB Mopar and got one for a BB Ford. The boss wouldn't talk to me. Always put me onto his secretary who'd tell me the boss was out and she couldn't do anything. Had to file a credit card claim to get my money back.:wack:

Well that sucks. Shouldn't of been a big deal to exchange pan. One of my friends had ordered an engine for his Vw bug through them. He was satisfied. I'm surprised by the oil pan though.
 
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