Cast vs. Aluminum heads and bang for buck..

Would you spend the same amount of money or more on cast iron heads instead of aluminum?

  • No

  • Yes


Results are only viewable after voting.
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Celebrate... LOL. 6k built stroker motor, Dana 3.54's, and you are about a whop'n 6 tenths ahead of a stock 360, with stock converter, and 2.94's? You dance around your yard but I'd be ashamed to post what you just did.
Okay do the bench racing we go..., if you insist..
Please remember all your facts are based on only the Time Slips that I posted...
Bigger valves not needed in a street car. Flow at lower lifts is very important to a highway geared car with a small cam, something you obviously haven't considered in my case. Also, velocity builds low end torque, something crucial to my car. I'm willing to bet my heads beat yours hands down in the two crucial areas to my car.
^^^now this is for a fact the biggest crock of bullcrap I've ever heard... I think I can see how the Doug's headers fit into this LOL but I'm not convince drag radials have anything to do with a "streetcar"?...
 
My post was to make a generic point, I personally would not buy the cheapest set of heads just to buy a set of heads. I would buy the best head I could afford.
 
My post was to make a generic point, I personally would not buy the cheapest set of heads just to buy a set of heads. I would buy the best head I could afford.
It was the best that I can afford and aluminum that I wanted.. I appreciate your comments..
 
Okay do the bench racing we go..., if you insist..
Please remember all your facts are based on only the Time Slips that I posted...

I'm not convince drag radials have anything to do with a "streetcar"?...
Well post up!! Aren't you the one that complains when secrets are held? Post up or shut up :D
Drag radials are DOT tires that are street legal and can be driven from my house to yours. Next question?
 
Well post up!! Aren't you the one that complains when secrets are held? Post up or shut up :D
Drag radials are DOT tires that are street legal and can be driven from my house to yours. Next question?

Any DOT tire is a street tire. It's that simple. My cheater slicks are DOT. I like them. They cost a left nut every time I have to replace them, but they work.
 
Comes down do you want 1970's performance out of the heads or current up to date performance levels out of the heads
 
Any DOT tire is a street tire. It's that simple. My cheater slicks are DOT. I like them. They cost a left nut every time I have to replace them, but they work.
Oh boy, hip waders will just not cover this deep of poo poo.. how many sets did you go through this year....
downloadfile-12.jpeg

ZERO...
 
Oh boy, hip waders will just not cover this deep of poo poo.. how many sets did you go through this year....
View attachment 1715406784
ZERO...


I'm easy on my tires. Doesn't take an 20 minute burn out to make it hook. I'm due for new shoes all the way around. That's how I know what they cost. The front tires are $177.00 each. Seems outrageous to me, but it is what it is.
 
I'm easy on my tires. Doesn't take an 20 minute burn out to make it hook. I'm due for new shoes all the way around. That's how I know what they cost. The front tires are $177.00 each. Seems outrageous to me, but it is what it is.

How long have you needed new shoes?
downloadfile-12.jpeg

SINCE I PICKED UP THAT GOAT'S HEAD IN 2012...
 
bang for the buck, I think for most the reality is aluminum, unless there is other factors being considered, then those looking run across threads like this. When I built the 351w I have currently have I started out trying to find a good shop to rework the heads and engine, after finding out costs and how backlogged the shop I decided on was I started spending time looking at what other options there were. I eventually went with some aluminum edlebrocks, it worked out a little cheaper actually because they were complete and the weight difference which wasn't an initial thought turned out better for me where the 351 eventually ended up. Most of us have budgets and goals that change along the way and even with the best research and patience you still could end up with issues either from custom work or off the shelf stuff. As with all things we learn from what we did previously and go from there, if I were to buy another set of aluminum, instead of scoffing at the procomps like I did on the 351 I would take a harder look at something like them. When I do research on quality of things, another thing about peoples comments and reviews, most that have had issues seem to get their comments out there, those with good results seem to move on with life.
 
Each engine is different, some because of the owner. I voted for spending the same money, because ultimately some engines, and some owners, may need the iron. So you spend what you need to and get the head that works for you. There is no one size (or material) fits all.
 
Each engine is different, some because of the owner. I voted for spending the same money, because ultimately some engines, and some owners, may need the iron. So you spend what you need to and get the head that works for you. There is no one size (or material) fits all.
Real fast pick one same amount of money...
 
I don't have an answer; but I sure like the OOTB Eddies on my 11:1, 367.
As a streeter, the instant throttle response is outrageous.
and on the one day I tracked it, she posted a 93mph Eighth mile; at 3467 pounds and at 900ish ft elevation, with a 230*@.050 cam. The Wallace says that takes 433hp
I wonder how much money,
I wouldda had to put
into X-heads
to get that kind of result.
If you plug those numbers into the 1/4m stats calculator, Wallace says that has a possibility of 116mph.

IMO, I got a truckload of bang for my buck, and my bucks are worth a lot less than yours. I sold three sets of pure stock vintage X heads to get those Eddies, and I think I still had to lay cash on the pile;
but I've never been sorry. your results may vary.
I didn't vote
 
Sure, many will be interested in loaded aluminum heads for 820. But this thread isn't about where to buy, there was a thread on that last year, their big sale. This thread is about, "putting equal or more into iron heads vs aluminum".
Lets visit REALVILLE.
  • My 318 heads in my '74 Duster. New valve springs for 50 bucks, and new exhaust valves for 48 bucks, and 10 bucks for new umbrella seals, 20 bucks in stones to port. For my engine, for my build, 128 dollars and some winter time porting, I got what I wanted. Didn't want 800+ dollar heads!
  • I also bought remanufactured, fully loaded mag heads for 300 bucks (pair). They were meant for my 5.2 mag. I changed my mind, added 230 bucks for Hughes spring kit, and 60 bucks to have Odessa's fix checked out, and 10 dollars in stones. That's 600 dollars all set for up to .550 lift. You will be over 900 dollars in your aluminum heads with springs. That's still 300 bucks cheaper than your heads with new spring, and even more if you take yours to a machine shop to be checked out, and I'm not sure you'll flow hardly any better, IF better.
  • So tell my why I'm stupid in these two builds??? This is why the decision will be made case by case scenario.
I paid the $400 something a piece for the bare heads, another $585? into a competent machine shop to verify the heads, do a GOOD valve job, install the springs right for my camshaft <- I learned to do the right thing from the preaching here by the religious SBM guys-THANK YOU!!! We do it right, the first time, no misfortune down the road.

318willrun probably has the lead here, as CLOSED CHAMBERED magnum heads can be assembled cheaper from the same Chinese slave labor. ALL the guru's don't care about the material, just the chamber being closed. Although the true wisdom from FABO was contributed by IQ52 whom pointed out that he moves the rocker studs for optimum performance with the magnum head.

I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to read the telephone book in your last post. But I can tell you here we go again "I had a friend" who had issues...
I have yet to have someone personally chimed in with issues on their Chinese Mopar heads.. not to say it doesn't happen every day but again in our Vash pool we have here no one has chimed in with bad words about them...

jpar, at our performance level, even still, it is the valve guides that need to be checked by a competent machine shop-first,probably.

Any prudent enthusiast and every professional engine builder will also check and/or modify the chinese valve job but the valve guides are where (my money is) tolerances (chinese's weakness, exact tolerances) were in the past, never mind metallurgy.

and then there is the (chinese) valve material, spring material, retainers- probably okay for a sub 400hp, sub 5000 rpm daily driver, but with $820 tied up into heads, and possibly $500-$1200 tied up in machine work to the block, how much into the engine? and you are willing to roll the dice???
brother we aren't Lamborghini crashing rich fools!

you know so many builders on this sight, don't risk your ride!
 
I paid the $400 something a piece for the bare heads, another $585? into a competent machine shop to verify the heads, do a GOOD valve job, install the springs right for my camshaft <- I learned to do the right thing from the preaching here by the religious SBM guys-THANK YOU!!! We do it right, the first time, no misfortune down the road.

318willrun probably has the lead here, as CLOSED CHAMBERED magnum heads can be assembled cheaper from the same Chinese slave labor. ALL the guru's don't care about the material, just the chamber being closed. Although the true wisdom from FABO was contributed by IQ52 whom pointed out that he moves the rocker studs for optimum performance with the magnum head.



jpar, at our performance level, even still, it is the valve guides that need to be checked by a competent machine shop-first,probably.

Any prudent enthusiast and every professional engine builder will also check and/or modify the chinese valve job but the valve guides are where (my money is) tolerances (chinese's weakness, exact tolerances) were in the past, never mind metallurgy.

and then there is the (chinese) valve material, spring material, retainers- probably okay for a sub 400hp, sub 5000 rpm daily driver, but with $820 tied up into heads, and possibly $500-$1200 tied up in machine work to the block, how much into the engine? and you are willing to roll the dice???
brother we aren't Lamborghini crashing rich fools!

you know so many builders on this sight, don't risk your ride!
You'll notice on my Speedmaster Pro Comp thread I just 2 minutes ago told 318 has valves that will fly that there's no way that I'm going to just drop these on and run them...
Thank you!..
 
although the fabo police are worried about a crime, I learn allot from these SBM disagreements or contests of wisdom

there are real tidbits of wisdom slinging from the fighters
LOL... you make it sound so medieval
 
Yes I'm going to use the Chinese heads, the Chinese valves, and the Chinese studs. Just like 70 AAR Cuda does with his 10 second a body..
Relax, those heads were to make you happy.... :)
 
Just called a machine shop today getting recommendations for a customers 65 GTO. it came with a 400 which definitely was not original and in the conversation we were told to definitely get a solid steel crank because those cast ones are junk..
He's just after a little Street Rod horsepower nothing to set the world on fire. And that was said. now five years after drag racing I have to worry about my cast crank being junk??...
I mean look at the Hughes website there's so much hype it's unbelievable. I love a couple few of their products but jeez...
machine shops love to take you down the rabbit hole of well if you get this you're going to need that.. and that's definitely junk... "IT'S A PROFIT THING" (from the movie The Jerk..)
 
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