Cement filled block

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marksmopars

marksmopars

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Great rides on this forum, thanks to you all for sharing. I have a question I was hoping one of you might know the answer to. How can a guy remove cement from a block once it is installed? See I have a 1970 T/A challenger, 3rd owner, bought it in 1975 and the original motor was already gone from it when I bought it. I have collected many pieces over the years including the T/A top end and even a T/A block, but the block is concrete filled. I would love to reclaim it for my car, but haven't found anything which has a hope of working. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 
There is no way I've ever heard of to remove the filler. Sorry...
 
How far is it filled up?
I have a few buddy's that run semi-filled blocks on street / strip cars.
 
You might investigate if there is an acid that will eat the filler and not the cast. I'm not a chemist, so I don't know.
 
Muriatic acid eats concrete, but not most metals.
If there is any way you can submerge the block in a 50/50 solution of muriatic acid and water and turn it every hour or so, that would do it.
Don't breath the fumes that it will start making immediatly when it makes contact with the concrete. (NASTY)
Otherwise you will have to spend hours pouring it through the block and be right in the fumes.
 
I am a chemist.

Tough call on this one.

Acids: Hot concentrated Nitric Acid or Sulfuric Acid can be used but it will damage the block by removing/dissolving metal.

Solvents: you would have to determine what type of resin it is. I imagine that it is probably an epoxy which means it would take a combination of toluene, acetone, and probably methyl-ethyl-ketone just to soften it up. It would probably need to be heated to have any affect. You would need to be in well ventilated area and be away from any flames or ignition sources. Oh, and don't breathe the fumes.

Heat: you might be able to burn it off but then you would have to be careful about localized heating of the metal in the area of the flame.
 
I had a 360 filled to the top use it as a street with a 22 inch radiator it would stay at 180 going down highway, but it would hit 210 in town ran a 7 blade fan and one 16 inch electric for in town.
 
I have a friend who works at a stone/cement supply place for landscaping. I'd have to ask him the name but there is a product that doesn't harm metal that acts on the molecular level of concrete that basically turns it back into mud.

He tried some of the stuff on some concrete blocks he had at work and he was amazed. It's not an acid either. If you want I can get the product info for him.
 
This may be a stupid question but why would someone fill the engine with concrete and how could you run and engine that was filled?
 
dartnabout said:
This may be a stupid question but why would someone fill the engine with concrete and how could you run and engine that was filled?
Click to expand...

Not really "concrete".

http://www.hardblok.com/

It's usually used on race-only applications because it reduces the amount of water inside the block - and the cooling ability. But one can fill the block to different levels. Heat isn't as big of a factor at the lower ends of the cylinders.

Do some research & testing before trying to "dissolve" whatever is in the block. The chemical make-up may be too different from real concrete for it to work properly.
 
Locomotion said:
Not really "concrete".

http://www.hardblok.com/

It's usually used on race-only applications because it reduces the amount of water inside the block - and the cooling ability. But one can fill the block to different levels. Heat isn't as big of a factor at the lower ends of the cylinders.

Do some research & testing before trying to "dissolve" whatever is in the block. The chemical make-up may be too different from real concrete for it to work properly.
Click to expand...

That is why I asked how far is it filled.
The same guy, that I talked about earlier is getting ready to fill a new R-3 block.
TA block, filled to the bottom of the soft plugs I would run it.
 
71Duster said:
I have a friend who works at a stone/cement supply place for landscaping. I'd have to ask him the name but there is a product that doesn't harm metal that acts on the molecular level of concrete that basically turns it back into mud.

He tried some of the stuff on some concrete blocks he had at work and he was amazed. It's not an acid either. If you want I can get the product info for him.
Click to expand...

I would love to have the information, unit is worthless as it is. I have pulled a frost plug and it is filled to the top of these. Talked to my buddy a machinist about cutting the cylinder walls out so I could get at the concrete to chunk it out then sleeve the engine, but he says as soon as he breaks through the cylinder walls it would ruin his tooling, so no way he would attempt. My understanding of the purpose is that it was used for racing and the concrete allowed higher forces,ie he was juicing the motor and with it bored 60 over was concerned about cylinder wall thickness. Great response here, appreciate the thoughts and advice from all. I will share any solutions attempted if I get to that point. Looks like one or two possible thoughts are presented here which I would like to pursue.
 
If it was bored .060 over to start with, you probably wouldn't want to use it anyway. Just my two cents .......
 
I know this method will remove the hard block, however some re-welding may be required after it's done :)

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gxm_qpKh7Jw"]Biggest Mythbusters Blast! - YouTube[/ame]
 
CudaChick1968 said:
If it was bored .060 over to start with, you probably wouldn't want to use it anyway. Just my two cents .......
Click to expand...

It is a T/A block - can be bored 100 over and since I have a T/A challenger without an original block there is resto value for me to put the unit into the car, unless of course you are perhaps aware of an original T/A block which is available - cheap? (Just teasing, not available and if they were they would not be cheap) Also, according to my machinist type friends, it is very possible to bore and sleeve the block successfully. Otherwise your thoughts have merit, thanks for taking the time to respond, I do appreciate it.
 
It's my understanding a T/A block can go up to a hundred thousandths safely if it doesn't have core shift. :-D

Best of luck with the clean up! Hope it's everything you dreamed.
 
.........Ur original block may still be out there..............post the #s here and on other forums...........u just may get lucky............the mopar crowd nowadays is all about helping 1 another.........or u may find another T/A block.....who knows.....there has been many bodies reunited with there original engines over the last few years...kim......
 
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