Champion fan relay, odd shutoff issue.

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Ben A...

Ben A...

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Hey folks,
I'm currently in Texas on my way to California and I'm in a tight spot!

Short version:
Does anyone know a replacement fan relay for the Champion CCFKRL relay kit that I could find at a local parts store? Im near an Advance, O'Reillys and Autozone. I think mine might be wonky.

I attached a pic from CCFKRL kit photo.

Long version:
I recently installed a Champion shroud with two SPAL 12" fans on my Champion 26" rad. I used the Champion CCFKRL relay kit.

I've put about 500 miles on the road since. But today I noticed my coolant temps were rising after pulling off the interstate...

With the engine off and the ignition keyed on, the fans will run (above 185deg, as intended). Once I start the engine, the fans turn off.

This was not a problem for the first 500 miles. I've checked all wiring and it's in proper condition.

So I'm thinking the issue is either my relay or the ign on wiring.

The relays orange ignition wire is drawing power from the electric choke. No blown fuses in that circuit... And the elec choke is connected to my key on accessory circuit.
This seemed to work fine before but maybe I've somehow burnt that out? Not sure how that works.

I'm suspicious that maybe my relay is functioning with battery power, but it shuts off when I fire up the engine and the alternator ups the voltage? Does that make sense?

Im thinking it might be wise to buy a new relay before I keep driving west... that is if I can find one to fit.

I appreciate any help here!
Thanks guys.
Ben
B785825E-EE32-4436-86A7-36A9470B1458.png
 
That's an easy relay to find, most any autoparts store will have a compatible one. But that's not your problem. Those relays can handle more voltage than your car will.

I suspect you have an issue with the ignition switch or the wiring for that accessory line. The relay isn't getting triggered. Since you're on the road, easy fix would be to wire in a switch to power the signal leg of the relay. Otherwise I'd be trying to splice into the ignition "run" circuit.
 
Phreakish said:
That's an easy relay to find, most any autoparts store will have a compatible one. But that's not your problem. Those relays can handle more voltage than your car will.

I suspect you have an issue with the ignition switch or the wiring for that accessory line. The relay isn't getting triggered. Since you're on the road, easy fix would be to wire in a switch to power the signal leg of the relay. Otherwise I'd be trying to splice into the ignition "run" circuit.
Click to expand...

Good to know on the relay! Thank you.
I keep some wiring kit in the trunk so tomorrow morning I'll try switching to a different relay ignition source.

I have a few accessories on the same circuit and they all have power still. So that made me think it was fine... but perhaps tapping into the choke is my issue... does seem suspect!

Thank you again!
 
the thermostat switch is just a switch to ground.(IIRC)
You could bypass it with a regular switch you controle from under the hood. Nothing wrong with letting the fans run even while you are driving.

Not sure how you wired them but I hope the main power for the relay for the fans is comming directly off the battery, rather than the cars wiring

Something to remember is if the engine is hot but just shut off the water temp tends to rise, when you turn the engine on cooler rad water starts to circulate and that might be whats turning off your fans.

If you sit in a parking lot with the engine running after a stretch on the interstate, do the fans ever turn on?
 
What Dana said. High side Power would come from the battery to the thick red lead on the relay, and jump across to other thick red/orange wire that goes to the fans. The thin wires one should come from low draw power and the other from the grounding of the Thermo switch. In line of the thermo switch, you can put in a splice to switch to ground to activate the fans by the switch. It will also activate when the thermo hits temps, grounds and turns on the fans...
 
Alternator vs battery "should not" be an issue

If you can post the destructions/ wiring diagram we can walk you through some checks

Basics are relay coil/ that is control circuit. Check the relay coil is actually getting power from the key. Then as mentioned above bypass thermo switch to ground and relay/ fan should activate and run. The relay coil/ control circuit should not draw much power, less than an amp, perhaps

Check supply power to relay contacts. This should be a major connection, like your starter relay stud, with a fuse or breaker.
 
On a recent drive I had the same thing happen, so I bypassed my thermal switch by connecting it’s two wires together which caused the main fan relay to activate.
Then ordered a new thermal switch and put it in a few days later.
 
orangemonster said:
Can you Remove the relay stuff and just run an on/off switch controlled by you?
Click to expand...
I would not remove the relay. Many of those fans draw a LOT of current. You could activate the relay with a toggle. If the relay is bad just replace it
 
Hey guys, apologies for my delay Ive been putting in long hours through Texas! This might be a ramble but theres a lot of replies so I might as well...

Early this morning I wired in a manual on switch and the hottest the coolant got was 206deg cruising at 2700rpm on the interstate (got cooler if I went faster). It was ~94deg out west of San Antonio. Running the fan on the highway actually helped because I have horrible airflow through my rad with this flat champion shroud. It seemed cooler on the highway with no shroud and a flex fan. But this is by far the hottest weather Ive cruised in.

And the manual switch overcame whatever issue was causing it to turn off spontaneously, or never turn on at all.

I still intend to trouble shoot this issue once I get to home base in California. Not a huge fan of using a manual switch, or running fans on the interstate.

A lot of notes here that soothe my worries on the road. The wiring I have appears accurate! I'm still not sure the cause of the problem but if the fan sensor/switch were to blame that might also make sense given what Dana noted about cooldown... It was just very inconsistent overall (before the manual switch today). Parked and running in a lot after the highway ride the fans would not turn on...sometimes!

Anyway, I should be able to make it to California with the manual switch! and when Im there ill figure out the culprit and share it here. I hope.

Im glad most of yall dont think its the relay.
 
I should note... I pretty much built this car/engine in covid boredom knowing literally nothing at the start. Then I "finished" and hit the road immediately! So driving from Toronto to New Orleans to LA is a huge and very nerve wracking experience on an untested first build. Im not in a big rush so I tend to tinker in the morning before a long paranoid ride. Nothing has exploded yet!
 
PICO Wiring 5593PT Pico Relay and Connector Kits | Summit Racing

Remove the relay and check to see of any of the terminals in the plug are misaligned or damaged. It is common for the terminals to get mangled when the end used plugs in the relay on that type of weatherproof socket.


Dont ask me how I know that! : D

Do you have a test light?

I like the type with the LED scale however the old school light bulb style will suffice.
 
Could be a ground issue as well. Doesent hurt to check.
 
Glad you have a working band-aid.

Also glad you discovered the flat aftermarket shrouds are ****.

Anything that blocks airflow at speed is bad.
 
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