Changing 67 Fastback rear valance

[68 A]

Hello,

I need to change my rear valance for 2 reasons:

1) Dual exhaust cutouts
2) There was some damage that has been fixed before I bought it, but it would look better to have new metal.

The new valance came with purchase of the car, I need to get the exhaust finished up, TTI states start from the rear, so its time to tackle this. I've changed some floors out before, but nothing that will really be seen from looking at the car.

There's a ton of spot welds to cut out, also I would need to cut out and reinstall the support that is between trunklid and taillights.

I was thinking it might be easier to leave the top sill of the old valance and trim the new one and butt weld it together instead of removing and replacing so much.

Any tips? Suggestions?

Thanks,
Steve

 

[MoparMike1974]

You should not have to remove the braces behind the tail lights.
Also, the top of the valance tucks up under another panel and I dont believe that top edge was welded. Yes, they used an excessive amount of spot welds down the center of the valance. Not sure why they used so many.
I can get you some pictures that might help.

 

[MoparMike1974]

Here you go, hope this helps some.
This panel fits damn good right out of the box. Very little fitting will be required.

 

[moparmat2000]

I am replacing the whole thing after I swap out the trunk pan. The reason for the "excessive" welds down the middle is this part ties to the trunk pan all the way across and is essentially what holds the frame and body on the unibody together. If you cut the valance apart in pieces to get it out then remove what's left leaving the rest of the metal intact that "tabs" into it. You can temp fit and clamp the new one in place, then using a silver sharpie outline where it all overlaps to the new valance. Take the valance back off and drill a bunch of nicely spaced 1/4" holes. Clean up the panels that "tab" into the valance and spray them with a weld thru primer. Then fit up the valance again and use self tapping screws thru every few of the 1/4" holes to draw it tight. Once your certain it's how you want it to be, weld up the 1/4" holes tying the valance to the angle tabs. Then remove the self tapping screws and weld those holes up too. The taillight bucket frames overlap the valance. You leave those intact. If you can see the spotwelds from underneath after cutting away the main parts of it, you should be able to use a ball rotary file on the spot welds from underneath the taillight bucket frames and release the rest of the valance. I am currently doing a trunk floor replacement. And am in the process of a total floor reskin on a 69 barracuda. I will be doing a complete rear valance replacement next. If you look at the last few pages of pix on 67/68/69 cuda dilemma you can see exactly what I am talking about with the 1/4" drill holes, screws etc.

 

[moparmat2000]

Here is your overlap point where the taillight buckets overlap the valance. Look at the the new one is stamped out. If its AMD sheetmetal its stamped out exactly like the old one and fits on exactly like the old one did. I would avoid doing a non stock seam, as it's much easier to swap it completely and just rosette spot weld it all back together. See my pic showing the taillight bucket overlap.

 

[Mike69cuda]

I did mine because it was wrecked. It is a lot of work. I got the one with the dual exhaust cutouts, so that was nice. No way I would ever do it again if I had a choice. Unless you are building a really high end car, or you have a lot of damage, fix the one you have. A good body man can add the cutouts.

 

[moparmat2000]

This **** is not that hard. Heres some pix of where I am at with all of this. Once the floor is in, replacing the entire valance is next. You can see where the trunk floor is bent up 90° as a "tab" to weld the valance. The trunk floor is spot welded to the rear frame tie bar all the way across as well.

 

[68 A]

That helps guys. I have a full AMD panel. I think i'll cut it down lower where you guys did. I do not want to mess with cutting out and reinstalling the headlight buckets.

Moparmat you have a huge project going on! I wouldn't be able to keep focus on that amount of metal work. I found my car on this site and only work it needed was to fix drivers floor. Buuuut, I added alot of work with subframe connectors, torque boxes, mini tub and still have to build trans tunnel for the TR6060. First time for doing all of this, I enjoy some of it.

I'll try to keep my progress updated, and will probably have more questions and would appreciate continued advice.

Thanks!
Steve

 

[moparmat2000]

Hi Steve, if going that route, I would section it in with either an overlap or buttweld at the spot welds that run across that hold the trunk floor to the valance. You can hide it nicely with tastefully done seam sealer there, and no body filler needed and the bumper will hide it. Plus you wont have to mess with spot welds on the lock latch support, or the bumper supports in the trunk.

You dont really have to remove the taillight housing "buckets" sheetmetal to swap the whole pan, but since you dont need to go that far into the car anyways, then I understand doing the non stock seam. If mine wasnt as bad all around as it is, I would be putting a non stock seam right on that trunk floor spot weld line.

If you want, follow along on my build thread. Eventually I will get to the point where I will replace the entire valance after I finish the trunk floor install.

You mentioned keeping focus. I can understand that. It's a lot of work. How I keep focused is I only worry about what I am dealing with currently. As in the trunk floor. Once that's done, then onto the valance.

I must confess, I work commercial aviation sheetmetal repair for a living, and yet thoroughly enjoy working on automotive sheetmetal as a hobby to blow off steam. Compared to dealing with drilling precision holes, rivets, and aluminum, i find the automotive stuff crude in comparison yet oddly satisfying.

 

[68 A]

Hi Steve, if going that route, I would section it in with either an overlap or buttweld at the spot welds that run across that hold the trunk floor to the valance. You can hide it nicely with testefully done seam sealer there no body filler needed and the bumper will hide it. You dont really have to remove the taillight housing "buckets" sheetmetal to swap the whole pan, but since you dont need to go that far into the car anyways, then I understand doing the non stock seam. If mine wasnt as bad all around as it is, I would be putting a non stock seam right on that trunk floor spot weld line.

So, cut the old off where you did. Then cut the new for 1/2" overlap? I can drill for spot welds, or weld the entire seam?

 

[moparmat2000]

So, cut the old off where you did. Then cut the new for 1/2" overlap? I can drill for spot welds, or weld the entire seam?

Yep about there all the way across. The double raised ribs running across the valance pan are a tell tale for the assembly line workers to help line it up with the trunk floor edge. These things were crudely built with 1/16" to 1/8" being close enough. Put your overlap right above the bottom ribs running across. Mask off for your seam sealer when done. Apply your sealer, smooth it out, and peel the tape while its wet for a nice sealant line. It will hide right under the back bumper.

 

[moparmat2000]

If going for an overlap I wouldent drill out the spotwelds holding the existing valance to the trunk floor. I'd cut the old one off below that much like I did, then overlap a seam right on the spotwelds running across. This way you can hide it.

 

[68 A]

Yep about there all the way across. The double raised ribs running across the valance pan are a tell tale for the assembly line workers to help line it up with the trunk floor edge. These things were crudely built with 1/16" to 1/8" being close enough. Put your overlap right above the bottom ribs running across. Mask off for your seam sealer when done. Apply your sealer, smooth it out, and peel the tape while its wet for a nice sealant line. It will hide right under the back bumper.

I'll give it shot! Or wait to watch you. I'm following your thread now. If I get out to work on it this week I'll see what I can do.

Thanks!

 

[moparmat2000]

Check my post #12
As far as my build thread goes, thank you for following along. it does move at a snail's pace. Although I am hoping it will pick back up over the winter. If the rest of your valance is in decent condition, a non stock seam is good and quick.

 

[68 A]

Got some work done today:

Cut rear valance off and welded up the spot welds I cut out last week.

You can see that at somepoint this car was hit or I think backed into a tree stump or well casing and damaged the rear valance, framerail connector and trunk floor. Old valance was patched up previously (most likely before AMD was making this part).

I would like to fix the trunk floor, I don't want to change the entire floor, pay for an entire floor (AMD is out of stock anyway). @moparmat2000 do you have a good section of trunk floor to patch in my bad area? It's where the rear valance welds on. I see you have some body parts for sale and you just changed your floor out. Or I'll just try to finish building a patch for it.

 

[moparmat2000]

Gittin her dun. I am working on my trunk pan today. First day in over 2 weeks I have felt decent. Cedar popping right not, I never knew lungs could generate that much snot lol. Allergy meds make me tired, the non drowsy wires me up. Hopefully I will have the pan ready to go in for good this evening. Become a pro at removing and reinstalling this pan for trimming drilling and fitting. Cant wait to see your valance fitment pix.

 

[moparmat2000]

68 A ,

Sorry I do not have a good trunk pan section. The 69 notch *** end I cut up for sheetmetal parts the spare tire well was really awful, and had chunks cut out of it by the guy I bought it from. The 69 I am redoing, the trunk pan was pretty awful as well. I removed it in sections to get it out. Left a small strip connecting the rear frame tie bar to the rear valance just to temporarily hold it together in the back until I could put the new transition pan, wheel houses and such in and stitch it up. Then I removed that remaining strip so I could change the trunk pan. Theres a guy out on here in the california desert who drills apart A body cars and sells the metal from them. It's the same basic trunk pan from 67-76. A few minor differences like the fuel filler tube hole and a couple stiffener stampings, and such. I am using an AMD trunk pan. Its modeled after a 1970-76 pan. I think the sheetmetal guy is Lee Roy Robinson. Other than that, eyeball the AMD pan and compare it to yours in the area you want to splice. If it looks the same, then it is. This 70-76 A body pan fits like a glove. I am now in the process of scuffing the primer down with 220 and will be shooting some epoxy primer on the underside, then will be welding it in. Heres pix of it drilled with 1/4" holes for rosette welds, and temp screwed right to the framerails.

 

[Mike69cuda]

Got some work done today:

Cut rear valance off and welded up the spot welds I cut out last week.

You can see that at somepoint this car was hit or I think backed into a tree stump or well casing and damaged the rear valance, framerail connector and trunk floor. Old valance was patched up previously (most likely before AMD was making this part).

I would like to fix the trunk floor, I don't want to change the entire floor, pay for an entire floor (AMD is out of stock anyway). @moparmat2000 do you have a good section of trunk floor to patch in my bad area? It's where the rear valance welds on. I see you have some body parts for sale and you just changed your floor out. Or I'll just try to finish building a patch for it.

View attachment 1715615214

View attachment 1715615215

That is what I should have done with mine, would have been much easier.

 

[4spdragtop]

Great job and details Matt.

 

[moparmat2000]

About to post pix on my thread.

 

[68 A]

Built a patch for the trunk floor from the unused part of the AMD valance

Getting new valance lined up. I was thinking of notching the top corners out to fit better, then drill holes and plug weld onto the quarter panel like it was factory

 

[moparmat2000]

First fit. No going back now lol

 

[68 A]

Looks good Mat!

So, got the self tappers out, ran some in above the ribs, now my question is:

I want it to look correct, If I run more screws in above the ribs then weld that seam, the old ribs underneath are acting like a fulcrum and kinda mess with the pan where it connects with the quarter panels and spare tire well. Should I run all these screws in the middle of the ribs where the spot welds are, tack the bottom of the panel and then hammer the top in above the ribs?

Or, would it be best to start tacking from center out (kind of like torqueing head bolts) so that there is no "slack" that gets caught in the middle? Would have to weld the top 1st for that.

I don't know, I know I want it too look right.

I appreciate any input.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[moparmat2000]

Hi Steve,

Kinda hard for me to tell without being there in person. Dont want to give a wrong answer without seeing it up close and personal. Personally I would cut it down so the top edge of your new valance lines up on the spot welds that run across in between the ribs that go side to side. Then use seam sealer in between the these ribs to make it look like a stock seam. This should make it fit better at the top.

 

[68 A]

Hi Steve,

Kinda hard for me to tell without being there in person. Dont want to give a wrong answer without seeing it up close and personal. Personally I would cut it down so the top edge of your new valance lines up on the spot welds that run across in between the ribs that go side to side. Then use seam sealer in between the these ribs to make it look like a stock seam. This should make it fit better at the top.

So cut the new valance between the ribs?

Then just the bottom rib would be overlapped