Cheap Rebuild 225

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Stranglehold

Stranglehold

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Bought a parts car for my other build but would like to keep it a runner. Looking to do a "cheap rebuild on the 225. Had 3 bent pushrods and cracked exhaust manifold when I disassembled. Just looking for pointers on what to look for before I spend too much. Gaskets, bearings and rings? Pistons, valves, bores look good, still checking clearances.
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I get engine parts of Ebay. I hunt for older NOS Michigan, Clevite, and other top brands for bearings. Sealed Power, Hastings and others for rings. Just make sure you get the correct bearings. They are different between cast and forged crank engines.
 
Valves frozen in guides? Or failed/improperly installed timing chain? I would say do a traditional home rebuild w/the stock components & roll unless there is an excess bore dimension that kills that plan.
 
I have a new set of rings, timing chain and good used pushrods. I MIGHT have some standard bearings, but I don't think so. If you want me to look and verify, send me a PM.
 
I have a set of standard main bearings and some .030 over rings, free. PM me to discuss. I also have a few stock exhaust manifolds. And I'm close enough you pay no shipping.
 
halfafish said:
I have a set of standard main bearings and some .030 over rings, free. PM me to discuss. I also have a few stock exhaust manifolds. And I'm close enough you pay no shipping.
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Well there you go.
 
With the price of parts, (If they are even available)and the price for labor, you might be better off buying a rebuilt long/short block. I bought a /6 from ATK years ago, and it still runs well.
 
The rod bearings tend to go first in a slant, particularly #5, so I would start there first.
If the rod and mains bearings look OK I would re use them.

What will really help is just getting all of the sludge and gunk out of the oil pan and pick up.
Service the oil relief in the oil pump.
Unless you find a bearing or piston scored, I would re use them. Get them back in the hole / position
they came out of.
Other than a gasket set, the only new parts that I would install would be:
Timing chain set, and tune up items, and probably a thermostat.
 
check for a ridge in the cylinder, this will tell you if the cylinde is worn. If its smooth, hone it to a 45-60 degree cross hatch and re-ring it. The crosshatch gives the rings the necessary oil to seat. if you re-ring a glazed cylinder (lapped mirror smooth) they wont seat and ill have blow by. Top end: check for valve sink. place a straight edge across the valve stems and see if any are higher. pop the valves out and check the seats. These heads don't have hardened seats so youll get some seat wear but dont accept any that are out of the average depth. Look at seats for any wear patterns and use a scotchbrite pad and clean the seats to see if there is pitting. I made a seat cutter out of an old valve and a carbide cutting tip. notched the valve lip and silver soldered the cutter in at 45 degrees, ran it with a drill slowly with slight pressure on the valve face and it worked! That and bearings, timing chain and can of spray paint...Craigslist rebuild! Your labor cost will kill you so whatever you can do by yourself is money saved. Just put yourself back into 1920 when they did all this stuff by hand....
 
Does it run or did it before you dismantled it? If not I would see end it to the machine shop for a hot tank dunk and new cam bearings at the least and have them measure it all out and tell you what they measured it out at and what they suggest. I hate having to do a job like that twice.
 
my68barracuda said:
The rod bearings tend to go first in a slant, particularly #5, so I would start there first.
If the rod and mains bearings look OK I would re use them.

What will really help is just getting all of the sludge and gunk out of the oil pan and pick up.
Service the oil relief in the oil pump.
Unless you find a bearing or piston scored, I would re use them. Get them back in the hole / position
they came out of.
Other than a gasket set, the only new parts that I would install would be:
Timing chain set, and tune up items, and probably a thermostat.
Click to expand...

Probably what I'll do. Gotta get the block and head cleaned up and make sure there's no cracks.
 
Pulled the guts out today, gonna take to the machine shop for a bath and then see whats what. He's 2 weeks out but I'm in no rush, got plenty of **** to work on for the Swinger. Thanks everyone for the intel. I'll let you know what happens with it.
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