Clearancing adjustable rocker to spring retainer question.

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Divenut

Divenut

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Hey Folks,

Clearancing my mopar adjustable rockers to clear the spring retainers on the new Eddy heads. Going smoothly, but I'm wondering if there's a minimum clearance spec or simply take off material till they clear?

Thanks in advance,
Pat

20240623_095200.jpg
 
I don't recommend that, because 99.9% of the time, the rocker shafts need relocating. Mike at B3 Racing Engines can help you determine that. @B3RE I tagged him, so maybe he'll chime in.
 
Mike at B3 told me he recommends to shoot for .030 because you can compare it to a spark plug gap. I used a piece of welding wire as a gauge.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I don't recommend that, because 99.9% of the time, the rocker shafts need relocating. Mike at B3 Racing Engines can help you determine that. @B3RE I tagged him, so maybe he'll chime in.
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Thank RRR. The interference is primarily slop/rough spots from the casting process. Everything is lining up nicely. Appreciate the input as always.
 
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Divenut said:
Thank RRR. The interference is primarily slop/rough spots from the casting process. Everything is lining up nicely. Appreciate the input as always.
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That's how it appears. It costs nothing to find out for sure. Lemmie say that again. NOTHING to find out. lol I "thought" my slant 6 head was setting up right. I got hold of Mike and he showed me how to measure and tell. Mine was way off. Mostly because I used longer 318 valves, BUT, most of them are off. Edelbrock casts those heads based off where the stock heads have the rocker stands, so it's always best to check. It's not like it's a ton of money to fix it. I think it's only like a couple hundred bucks for the custom shims if it needs them. Better to be safe than sorry. Just my opinion.
 
RustyRatRod said:
It costs nothing to find out for sure
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One other thing I remembered from talking to Mike is you need to make any changes before you bolt the heads on because of interference with the pushrods after the geometry is corrected. You don't want to grind on the head with it on the engine. So zero cost is dependent on you doing it before using up a head gasket. Mine were already on so I just went with it.
 
Uncle Bob said:
One other thing I remembered from talking to Mike is you need to make any changes before you bolt the heads on because of interference with the pushrods after the geometry is corrected. You don't want to grind on the head with it on the engine. So zero cost is dependent on you doing it before using up a head gasket. Mine were already on so I just went with it.
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You have to grind on nothing that I know of.....unless perhaps the pushrod holes......but most of the time, the relocation is in the direction that helps with that.
 
Thanks all. Good stuff. Still in the test fit phase. Checking valve to piston clearance etc next. Will post the updates as things progress.
 
RustyRatRod said:
You have to grind on nothing that I know of.....unless perhaps the pushrod holes......but most of the time, the relocation is in the direction that helps with that.
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Hey RRR,

Thanks again. Other than cleaning up the oil drain holes, not grinding on the head. Just clearancing inside side the rockers, i.e. casting Ridges, bumps etc.

Be well
 
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