Close to pulling the trigger... any specifics to watch for??

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Close to pulling the trigger on what would be my 1st early A. '65 Valiant 4 door 170 auto to be exact.
  • I assume it has the column-but-cable shifted auto like other '65 Mopars. I don't like the odd duck, but I assume it's what it has.
  • I know how to generally look over an older car to buy, but looking for specifics to this car....
  1. Any other things it may have that only this type of car would have? Like to know before pulling the trigger or else I deal with it after I own it. Brakes? Drive Shaft? Would it be 4 bolt pattern wheels? Other things easy to get, per say glass if something should happen?? You folks get the idea.....
Thanks in advance to those that "know" the early A's. :)
 
Most likely have drums in 5×4" SBP.
ball and trunnion driveshaft (there's a lot of ways around it)

Parts are pretty common here on fabo, but locally to you....prolly not.

If it's a good price and minimal rust, I'd do it
 
Most likely have drums in 5×4" SBP.
ball and trunnion driveshaft (there's a lot of ways around it)

Parts are pretty common here on fabo, but locally to you....prolly not.

If it's a good price and minimal rust, I'd do it
That ball and trunnion set up is gone in '66 ?
 
Assuming stuff hasn't been changed in its 55 years on the planet, it will be 9" drums all the way around. I just rebuilt the ones on my 66 Valiant and they are at least credible. And they stop WAY better than the worn out version. Wheels will be 4" pattern. While the 4.5" pattern give you almost unlimited choices in wheels and tires, there are plenty of good ones for SBP. I kept the SBP on the Valiant, but upgraded to 15" wheels for better tire selection. If you get the itch, there are custom options depending on the thickness of your wallet.

I'm doing a complete upgrade/rebuild on the Valiant, and I've not had trouble sourcing parts. Feel free to shoot a PM if you need specifics. Sounds like a cool car BTW!
 
Assuming stuff hasn't been changed in its 55 years on the planet, it will be 9" drums all the way around. I just rebuilt the ones on my 66 Valiant and they are at least credible. And they stop WAY better than the worn out version. Wheels will be 4" pattern. While the 4.5" pattern give you almost unlimited choices in wheels and tires, there are plenty of good ones for SBP. I kept the SBP on the Valiant, but upgraded to 15" wheels for better tire selection. If you get the itch, there are custom options depending on the thickness of your wallet.

I'm doing a complete upgrade/rebuild on the Valiant, and I've not had trouble sourcing parts. Feel free to shoot a PM if you need specifics. Sounds like a cool car BTW!
good stuff, man! I appreciate it
 
Close to pulling the trigger on what would be my 1st early A. '65 Valiant 4 door 170 auto to be exact.
  • I assume it has the column-but-cable shifted auto like other '65 Mopars. I don't like the odd duck, but I assume it's what it has.

  • Yes it has the cable shift I’m sure. Just be aware if those cables are worn out or cracked a set of new ones is $500. Mine leaks and I cannot get it to stop.
  • I know how to generally look over an older car to buy, but looking for specifics to this car....

  • not totally sure about the valiant but I know the 64, 65, and 66 models of some cars were one off. Things like tail lights, trim, Seat covers, all those little things if they are one year only will be extremely expensive.
  1. Any other things it may have that only this type of car would have? Like to know before pulling the trigger or else I deal with it after I own it. Brakes? Drive Shaft? Would it be 4 bolt pattern wheels? Other things easy to get, per say glass if something should happen?? You folks get the idea.....

  2. Drive shaft will probably be ball and trunnion if it’s original. Not a bad thing just more money to change to a slip joint if that’s what you want to do. Pretty much anything altering the rear end, the transmission, the engine is going to cost more money because it’s not as simple and universal as the newer stuff. If you plan on getting it and just keeping it stock then I say go for it. But I can almost guarantee with any upgrades you’re gonna need to do a lot of work to make things work. I have a 1965 dart. I’ve run into the same exact problems. You can get tail light lenses for other models pretty cheap. Trying to buy some decent or new ones for a 65 dart breaks the bank.
Thanks in advance to those that "know" the early A's. :)
 
Check the upper control arm attachment point/rails for rust. Also the torsion bars where they go into the unibody. 65'
 
Other things easy to get, per say glass if something should happen??
I've heard the rear window (back glass) is a beeyotch to find if you break it... Windshields, on the other hand, are the same between ALL early As and are available new.
 
Also, most all brake/suspension parts are interchangeable with later A stuff: torsion bars, control arms, front brakes and spindles, rear ends, leaf springs... in case you need to replace/upgrade.
 
Also, most all brake/suspension parts are interchangeable with later A stuff: torsion bars, control arms, front brakes and spindles, rear ends, leaf springs... in case you need to replace/upgrade.
Cool! That's great info and nice to know!
 
Cheaper to find a slip yoke 904 than convert, although I'm pretty sure there is a thread or two about it here.
 
:poke::poke::poke:

if-you-dont-take-this-offer-right-now-i-will-lose-all-respect-for-you-and-punch-you.jpg
 
Look for: the bottoms of the rear quarter panels rusted out along with the panel behind it called the trunk drop off, Rust in the rear wheelwell lips, rust In the bottom rear of the front fenders (called the dogleg), Rust in the bottom of the cowl underneath the dash where the fresh air vents are located, rust in the front floors around gas pedal and frame rails.
 
Also rust at base of windshield pillar. B&T shaft is fine, make sure the seal is still intact. They will live forever if lubed and are plenty strong. People change them out because they change their trans from cable to later lever trans and lose the 4 bolt flange. Mine was a CA car and it even has slight rust in the 'dogleg'. Speedo cable is kinda unique. Front headlight trim rings are expensive and are usually dinged up.
 
Look for: the bottoms of the rear quarter panels rusted out along with the panel behind it called the trunk drop off, Rust in the rear wheelwell lips, rust In the bottom rear of the front fenders (called the dogleg), Rust in the bottom of the cowl underneath the dash where the fresh air vents are located, rust in the front floors around gas pedal and frame rails.

Also rust at base of windshield pillar. B&T shaft is fine, make sure the seal is still intact. They will live forever if lubed and are plenty strong. People change them out because they change their trans from cable to later lever trans and lose the 4 bolt flange. Mine was a CA car and it even has slight rust in the 'dogleg'. Speedo cable is kinda unique. Front headlight trim rings are expensive and are usually dinged up.
thanks guys for the tips on a couple areas to look for as far as rust... like bottom of the cowl
 
I'd look for a two door.
I want this to be a 4 door. LOL... Here is the list of 2 doors we own currently:
  1. Plymouth duster
  2. another Plymouth duster
  3. Ramcharger
  4. another ramcharger
  5. pick up truck
  6. another pick up truck
  7. Mustang
 
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