Cluster problems

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nick69

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Hi guys,

Just taken the gauge cluster out of my 67 Dart. Both the circuit boards have had it. Plus from the pics can anyone tell me whats what??

Thanks for your help
Nick

cluster1.gif

cluster2.gif


cluster1.gif


cluster2.gif
 
The thing with the wire is your voltage limiter "condencer". The wire blade fits into the slot with the limiter. (your limiter) has two blades going into your cluster. I noticed in your pic that the limiter has no insulator between the (limiter body, blades and cluster). Get a heavey piece of paper and push the limiter through it. Cut around the paper close to the limiter body. Re install the limiter and push the condencer blade in place. :thumblef:
 
Hello UK, your first pic shows that you need to remove all the glue? on the circuit board input and get someone to do a good solder job on those pins. I don`t know the layout of your gauges but from one of the incoming pins you should have 12 volts leading to the silver box attached to the board, and an average of 5 volts coming out. That is your voltage limiter- it takes 12 volts and drops it to 5 with the use of an internal bi-metal switch which when heated, bends and breaks contact, cools and makes contact creating an average of 5 volts to power your gauges.Your gauge terminals are the four screws to the right of the v/l and are probably(viewing the picture) from left to right ,5 volts in, a sending unit, 5 volts in,and a sending unit.The small cylinder bolted to the rear of the cluster is a radio noise suppressor which will tie into the circuit as well to reduce static in your radio.That`s a start ,I`ll leave the rest for the DART guys. Hope that helps explain a little of what you have there.
 
Hi there,
The condencer blade was in with the bottom blade of the Limiter.

Ill do the paper thing.

There are 3 pins on the Limiter, the one you can see in the pic and 2 others. One of these has to have 12 volt am i right??
 
69signetv8 said:
The thing with the wire is your voltage limiter "condencer". The wire blade fits into the slot with the limiter. (your limiter) has two blades going into your cluster. I noticed in your pic that the limiter has no insulator between the (limiter body, blades and cluster). Get a heavey piece of paper and push the limiter through it. Cut around the paper close to the limiter body. Re install the limiter and push the condencer blade in place. :thumblef:
Click to expand...

Sorry (3) blades on the limiter!
 
Taking a closer look Long gone is correct. I didn't fully look at your connection. Trying to trace your circuts is hard from the view (+) or (-). Also as Longgone stated a view of the front would help it dosn't look like a amp guage there. I'm thinking fuel and temp?

I wouldn't give up on it yet.
 
Longgone said:
Hello UK, your first pic shows that you need to remove all the glue? on the circuit board input and get someone to do a good solder job on those pins. I don`t know the layout of your gauges but from one of the incoming pins you should have 12 volts leading to the silver box attached to the board, and an average of 5 volts coming out. That is your voltage limiter- it takes 12 volts and drops it to 5 with the use of an internal bi-metal switch which when heated, bends and breaks contact, cools and makes contact creating an average of 5 volts to power your gauges.Your gauge terminals are the four screws to the right of the v/l and are probably(viewing the picture) from left to right ,5 volts in, a sending unit, 5 volts in,and a sending unit.The small cylinder bolted to the rear of the cluster is a radio noise suppressor which will tie into the circuit as well to reduce static in your radio.That`s a start ,I`ll leave the rest for the DART guys. Hope that helps explain a little of what you have there.
Click to expand...

Ah starting to make sense now. The pins on the other side of the cluster are nearly broken off!!! :sad2:
 
69signetv8 said:
Taking a closer look Long gone is correct. I didn't fully look at your connection. Trying to trace your circuts is hard from the view (+) or (-). Also as Longgone stated a view of the front would help it dosn't look like a amp guage there. I'm thinking fuel and temp?

I wouldn't give up on it yet.
Click to expand...


Sorry for the missleading picture, yes the picture is of the Fuel/temp side.
 
Hello Nick-Yes ,you should have 12 volts coming into the center pin that leads to your V/L. Your suppressor will probably tie into this line although I can`t see it in your picture. The other side of your V/L should show an average (the voltage will be intermittent) of 5 volts leading to one side of each of your gauges. Viewing your photo the incoming pins with the glue on them should be L to R- (1)12 volts in to the outside pair of inst. panel lights (2) 12 v. in to center inst.pnl light (3) 12v. in to V/Limiter (4)and(5) 5v. to sending unit for temp/ fuel/ oil? You can ground your sending unit wire leads briefly and have someone watch the gauge to see if they rise. If they do they`re probably okay.Good luck, electrical problems can often be a major pain.
 
Hi guys,

One quick question. I take it the tab on top of the Voltage Limiter is suppose to have a Earth Cable attached to it??

Am I right??
 
nick69 said:
Hi guys,

One quick question. I take it the tab on top of the Voltage Limiter is suppose to have a Earth Cable attached to it??

Am I right??
Click to expand...

Hi Nick, my cluster doesn't have one?? If nobody gets back to you on this you could meter it to see if any of tabs have a resistance with it? If not I would bet it's just a added ground/earth. If the tab is used for a ground, you should get resistance between that top tab and your grounding tab that fits into the cluster from the limiter.

Here a site that my help out in some stuff.
Jim :thumblef:

http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/alfa/45/svc8x66.htm
 
Hello Nick- It appears as though the limiter is grounded to the cluster at that terminal sharing the ground with the two halves of your instrument panel lights. The bolt just above the limiter is going through the printed circuit and into the cluster, so that part of the printed circuit is a ground and it looks like the tab atop the limiter goes into the end of that circuit. The tab is there to ground(earth) something under your dash, I just don`t know what. Where are the Dart guys?
 
Right ok, well ill try the cluster with the repaired circuit boards then see what happens. If it doesnt work ill have to get another voltage regulator/limiter.

REALLY appreciate your help guys.
 
Been reading through previous posts.

When making a solid state regulator I see people used a MICROCHIP, RESISTOR and HEATSINK.

What is the microchip for??
The resistor changes the voltage and the Heatsink keeps it cool so why the Microchip??


Thanks
Nick
 
The IC(chip) is what converts 12v to 5v. You should mount it on a heatsink and solder a capacitor across the input and output to reduce noise in your radio. Check out the thread "Can`t get my gauges to work" by coyoteduster , there`s a link to a site in there that`ll explain the entire conversion. Let us know how it works out.
 
Ive looked at the thread and website outlining the upgrade. I am going to talk with my electronics bloke at work tmw about simplifying the upgrade. Ill let you know how we get on.
If im right I should be able to get it to work perfectly for less than $0.50. With no heat build up and no noise interferance.

Ill be back. :thumblef: :thumblef:
 
Right well theres no point me doin the regulator thing yet as it turns out the Fuel and Temp gauges are past it.
The internals are burnt out.

Ill put a post in the wanted section, hopefully someone will see it.
 
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