Clutch release arm

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240 gordy

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Having trouble with adjustment. Just bought a 340 Swinger 4 speed car. To put in first or change gears, pedal has to be on the floor. When releasing clutch, it engages within 2-3 inches. Also, when clutch is in, the release arm is touching the back of opening in the scattershield. Would like to adjust pedal up about half way.Any thoughts.(hope these photo's help).

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Having trouble with adjustment. Just bought a 340 Swinger 4 speed car. To put in first or change gears, pedal has to be on the floor. When releasing clutch, it engages within 2-3 inches. Also, when clutch is in, the release arm is touching the back of opening in the scattershield. Would like to adjust pedal up about half way.Any thoughts.(hope these photo's help).

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Looks like you have it in the right position ,to adjust it you have to unlock the double nut and adjust it back or forward. Does this picture help?

clutch 002.jpg
 
You may have a too-short fork-pivot bracket. Are you also almost out of adjustment on your linkage?
Notice in FOGs post, the TO fork is more to the front of the window,when at rest? Yours should be like that, perhaps even more to the front of the car. The only way to achieve that is with a taller pivot, or a a different TO bearing collar.If your pivot is too short, then the outer end of the fork moves to the back of the car, and the geometry gets all messed up.
The same thing can occur if the clutch disc is too thick. The diaphragm fingers move forward and the fork follows.
Also, if the thrust bearing inside the engine is banged out, the fork follows.
Also if the scattershield is too deep or the block-plate is too thick, or the flywheel is too thin.
Perhaps the solution will be to space the flywheel back, or to space the fork-pivot forward.
You can't have the fork hitting the opening in the scattershield; it will only get worse as the disc wears thinner.
Brewer's performance may have what you need.
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
 
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You may have a too-short fork-pivot bracket. Are you also almost out of adjustment on your linkage?
Notice in FOGs post, the TO fork is more to the front of the window,when at rest? Yours should be like that, perhaps even more to the front of the car. The only way to achieve that is with a taller pivot, or a a different TO bearing collar.If your pivot is too short, then the outer end of the fork moves to the back of the car, and the geometry gets all messed up.
The same thing can occur if the clutch disc is too thick. The diaphragm fingers move forward and the fork follows.
Also, if the thrust bearing inside the engine is banged out, the fork follows.
Also if the scattershield is too deep or the block-plate is too thick, or the flywheel is too thin.
Perhaps the solution will be to space the flywheel back, or to space the fork-pivot forward.
You can't have the fork hitting the opening in the scattershield; it will only get worse as the disc wears thinner.
Brewer's performance may have what you need.
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
Great info, thanks. Didn't want too but looks like I will have to pull the trans and take a look inside. Just picked up a factory bell housing and might use it instead. Just like the security of the scatter-shield. Thanks again...
 
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