Cluth Pedal Linkage to Z-Bar

[charliec]

I'm getting ready to install the Z-Bar and linkages on my '68 Dart 340, 4 spd. The clutch pedal linkage that goes through the firewall has a short crook in it on the engine bay end. Since I don't yet have the Z-Bar in place, does that crook go toward the clutch or does it go toward the fender?

 

[Vaanth]

does that crook go toward the clutch or does it go toward the fender?

It's positioned with crook toward the clutch housing as you have it now.

 

[dano]

I'm getting ready to install the Z-Bar and linkages on my '68 Dart 340, 4 spd. The clutch pedal linkage that goes through the firewall has a short crook in it on the engine bay end. Since I don't yet have the Z-Bar in place, does that crook go toward the clutch or does it go toward the fender?

View attachment 1716352111

In the image above, this is the correct orientation.

When I install my Z-Bay, I preinstall both ball pivots (all greased up) and fish it up into place. I usually have the one bolt on the bell that the slot on the bracket fits into. I then but the other bolt on the bracket then the nut and washer.

Are you running headers?

 

[charliec]

Thanks. I thought that was right, but I wanted to make sure I didn't need to flip it before I get any further along.

I'm not going to use headers. It had headers on it when I bought the car. But looking at that cramped condition I decided to go back with stock Hi-Po manifolds. They are already installed.

 

[charliec]

Another quick question. The clutch adjustment link has a rubber grommet that contacts the clutch fork. Next to that (on the adjusting nut side) there is a heavy steel washer with a flat to match the flat side on the adjusting rod. That washer has a flat side and a convex side. I assume that the flat side goes against the grommet, but why is the other side of the washer convex? Am I missing something here?

 

[Vaanth]

The flat side of the washer goes against the rubber insulator. The adjusting nut has a special taper and on one side that locks into the hole with a machined recess on the convex side. The convex side allows ready identification of which side faces away from the insulator.

 

[crophopper70]

Don't wanna hi jack, I'm working on the same stuff right now. I need more threads to reassemble at the fork...I only replaced ball studs and bushings...now it won't go back together...

 

[Daves69]

Many of the adjuster nuts had slots in them that are collapsed onto the rod flat forming a light lock as it's pressed into the D taper of the washer.

Similar to a "flex" nut.

Many just use a second nut as a jam nut.

 

[charliec]

Don't wanna hi jack, I'm working on the same stuff right now. I need more threads to reassemble at the fork...I only replaced ball studs and bushings...now it won't go back together...

View attachment 1716352191

View attachment 1716352192

I could end up with the same situation once I get that far along. My car was apparently a conversion before I got it. The adjuster rod was lengthened with a piece of threaded dowel welded into the pivot end...rather shabby, but I guess it worked. I bought a new rod, but I haven't tried to install it yet. I may have to go back to the POS I took out.

 

[perfacar]

on my dart and duster, i removed the rubber spacer and installed a rocker ball from 350 chev also i use a second nut to lock the clutch rod nut, makes it easier to adjust, just food for thought

 

[67Dart273]

on my dart and duster, i removed the rubber spacer and installed a rocker ball from 350 chev also i use a second nut to lock the clutch rod nut, makes it easier to adjust, just food for thought

I did (with the washer and nut) similar way back in the 70's with my 70 440-6 car. In fact I drove most of the way from Carlsbad to NAS Miramar one night after the rod broke, about 30 miles. That car ate at least 3 of those as I recall. i also broke a 3-4 shift fork one Friday afternoon at the start of a 3 day weekend, maybe labor day, and spent the entire weekend putting around not far from Miramar, in ...............nothing higher than 2nd gear.

 

[Vaanth]

Chrysler produced a metal swivel to replace the washer/insulator combination. These were used in truck applications and others. The swivel has a D-shaped hole to fit the rod and the machined recess for the adjusting nut to lock. Part number is 2401740. I am using one that I pulled out of a Dodge pickup years ago in my Duster, and I also added a jam nut as added insurance against the adjustment nut backing off.

(Borrowed swivel images from AMS Obsolete)

FYI...

 

[Demon499]

This is the best way to go on your car. I use one on my Demon and it is great.
You can get it on E-Bay on this guys page. RICKS-MOPARS. It is like $30. for it.
Ted