Comp Cams 828-16 Solid Roller Lifters

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superstock64polara

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I'm sure this may have been covered before, however l'd like to hear from people with direct experience. I'm building a 340/416 with mildly ported iron J heads, 9.5:1 static comp, Weiand Stealth intake, Carter Comp Series 750 carb, Doug's 1-5/8 long tube headers. The car's a 67 Barracuda with 4 speed and 3.23 sure-grip 8 3/4 rear.

Not racing this car, just want a strong street / reliable motor that sounds cool, pulls hard and turns the wheels at will. I have a new set of Comp 828-16 solid roller lifters and a Comp XR286R cam. The cam is a little too much for what l want, so l was thinking of getting another stick, such as a Comp XR268R, which is 230 / 236 @ 0.050" 0.552 / 0.564 lift LSA 110.

My question is, do these Comp lifters run reliably on the street, l do realise there is some clearance to be done in the lifter valley for these to drop in? Also what do you guys think of either of the Comp solid roller cams l've outlined, in particular the smaller of the two?
 
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Have no specific experience with those lifters, but I can tell you what they will not do: they will not 'tick' because they have bled down, nor will they pump up. A good choice.
I think the 286 cam would work quite well & have a reasonable idle, three reasons:
- being a solid, it will act like a hyd cam that is about 10* smaller
- the 110 LSA is not ideal, should be tighter, but it will improve the idle
- the shorter rod/stroke ratio of a stroker makes the engine more tolerant to duration at lower rpms.

If you already have the 286, I would use it.
 
I apologize ahead of time for not having direct experience, as that's what you asked for, however, here is my "advice". I looked on the Comp web site and find no evidence of where the needle bearings on the rollers are pressure fed. To me, that's a requirement for a solid roller lifter run on the street. They will see mostly low RPM, idling in traffic and cruise RPM, so to me, pressure fed rollers are a 100% necessity. I would also strongly recommend moving away from the needle bearing rollers and going to a solid, pressure fed bushing, and using the biggest diameter roller I could find.
 
I apologize ahead of time for not having direct experience, as that's what you asked for, however, here is my "advice". I looked on the Comp web site and find no evidence of where the needle bearings on the rollers are pressure fed. To me, that's a requirement for a solid roller lifter run on the street. They will see mostly low RPM, idling in traffic and cruise RPM, so to me, pressure fed rollers are a 100% necessity. I would also strongly recommend moving away from the needle bearing rollers and going to a solid, pressure fed bushing, and using the biggest diameter roller I could find.
They are their Endure-X and are supposed to be direct lubed axles. Never saw a set of the 828-16 rollers but they are for rocker shaft oiled, no pushrod oiling. The 8043-16 (which I’ve inspected) are direct oiled axles and pushrod oiling. @Toluene56 has experience with the 8043-16 and might know if they were drop ins with no clearancing needed?
 
They are their Endure-X and are supposed to be direct lubed axles. Never saw a set of the 828-16 rollers but they are for rocker shaft oiled, no pushrod oiling. The 8043-16 (which I’ve inspected) are direct oiled axles and pushrod oiling. @Toluene56 has experience with the 8043-16 and might know if they were drop ins with no clearancing needed?
Did you read the description on the Comp site? It has conflicting information. It says NO oil holes. If there's no oil hole, they cannot be pressure fed, can they? Pretty kornfrooshing.
 
Did you read the description on the Comp site? It has conflicting information. It says NO oil holes. If there's no oil hole, they cannot be pressure fed, can they? Pretty kornfrooshing.
All I’ve ever seen is the following blurb within the details of the Endure-X roller lifters:

“and most applications include EDM oil injection technology that guarantees the bearing assembly receives a constant flow of oil”

so yeah, definitely “phone first”!
 
All I’ve ever seen is the following blurb within the details of the Endure-X roller lifters:

“and most applications include EDM oil injection technology that guarantees the bearing assembly receives a constant flow of oil”

so yeah, definitely “phone first”!
Me too, but that no oil hole thing really makes me wonder.....not to mention, no way will I ever run needle bearings. No thanks. lol
 
Me too, but that no oil hole thing really makes me wonder.....not to mention, no way will I ever run needle bearings. No thanks. lol
Yeah I get the needle concern or dislike. I’ve got Howard’s Race Max solid rollers that direct lube and have the recommended springs matched to my cam which is on the lower side of specs and spring pressures required. Bigger serious effort, ramp acceleration, lift, RPM, and higher spring rates bushings makes sense, along with bigger roller wheels. For a small time schlub like me and my kid stuff needles it is.:eek:
 
They are their Endure-X and are supposed to be direct lubed axles. Never saw a set of the 828-16 rollers but they are for rocker shaft oiled, no pushrod oiling. The 8043-16 (which I’ve inspected) are direct oiled axles and pushrod oiling. @Toluene56 has experience with the 8043-16 and might know if they were drop ins with no clearancing needed?
I did not clearance anything. But they were also used in a 5.9 Magnum block.
 
Yeah I get the needle concern or dislike. I’ve got Howard’s Race Max solid rollers that direct lube and have the recommended springs matched to my cam which is on the lower side of specs and spring pressures required. Bigger serious effort, ramp acceleration, lift, RPM, and higher spring rates bushings makes sense, along with bigger roller wheels. For a small time schlub like me and my kid stuff needles it is.:eek:
Hey 12 do the Howards you are running oil through the pushrods, if so could you post a part # ? Sorry OP not trying to highjack.
 
If you to go the Summit racing site, the description of the 828-16 and the 8043-16 lifter sets are the same (see below). Both lifters have a 0.81" wheel.

Some of the differences between the two lifter sets are as follows:
- The 8043's have the pressure fed bearings. The 828's do not have pressure fed bearings.
- The lifter body shape difference between the two makes it appear that the 828's do not have a pressure feed. 828's have completely solid body while the 8043's have a recess in the body with the oil receiver hole.
- The 828's have the link bar on the back side of the lifter while the 8043's have the link bars on the inside or pushrod side of the lifter cup giving more clearance to the valley wall.
- The price. 828's are cheaper by $150 for the set

Summit Racing description for both sets

8043's description
"COMP Cams Endure-X roller lifters set the standard for solid roller lifter technology. The hydraulic roller lifters are designed with oiling and inboard link bars, they're engineered to withstand the demands of aggressive cam lobe designs and increased RPM ranges. The lifters feature a wear-resistant tool steel axle, precision sorted needle bearings, and most applications include EDM oil injection technology that guarantees the bearing assembly receives a constant flow of oil. Endure-X solid roller lifters are heat treated, machined to ultra-high tolerances, and fully rebuildable."

828's description
"COMP Cams Endure-X roller lifters set the standard for solid roller lifter technology. The hydraulic roller lifters are designed with oiling and inboard link bars, they're engineered to withstand the demands of aggressive cam lobe designs and increased RPM ranges. The lifters feature a wear-resistant tool steel axle, precision sorted needle bearings, and most applications include EDM oil injection technology that guarantees the bearing assembly receives a constant flow of oil. Endure-X solid roller lifters are heat treated, machined to ultra-high tolerances, and fully rebuildable"
 
Thanks to all for your replies to my initial post. Seems to be a divisive topic, some have used these solid roller lifters in street driven cars with good results, others warn of catastrophic failure. Hmmmm, I have a new Comp XE274H hyd stick in the stash that I could use. I'd like to make 420hp & 480tq in a very streetable combo with mildly ported J heads (2.02/1.60) 416 cubes, 4 speed and 3.23 gears.

Anyone have any experience with this stick in a similar build?

Any other flat tappet camshaft recommendations, solid or hydraulic?
 
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Solid flat tapper will easily get you to your desired power levels, cost a lot less and will require less maintenance. Call several cam manufacturers like Jones, Bullet, Racer Brown, … and give them your goals and as much detail about the drivetrain as possible. They will get you solid recommendations.
 
I can’t say for sure but this is how I see that cam. It is very similar in specs to the hyd roller cam in the MoPar create 360/380 hp engine. Being a hyd cam instead of a roller with a little less lift puts you behind the 8 ball a little. The 360/380 create engine has been dyno’d in the 410 hp area.

The extra stroke should be close to give that torque goal if the 360/380 cam is used. I think you’ll be a little short with that cam but I do think it’ll be a heck of a street performer non the less.
 
Solid flat tapper will easily get you to your desired power levels, cost a lot less and will require less maintenance. Call several cam manufacturers like Jones, Bullet, Racer Brown, … and give them your goals and as much detail about the drivetrain as possible. They will get you solid recommendations.

Sound advice Rocket
 
I can’t say for sure but this is how I see that cam. It is very similar in specs to the hyd roller cam in the MoPar create 360/380 hp engine. Being a hyd cam instead of a roller with a little less lift puts you behind the 8 ball a little. The 360/380 create engine has been dyno’d in the 410 hp area.

The extra stroke should be close to give that torque goal if the 360/380 cam is used. I think you’ll be a little short with that cam but I do think it’ll be a heck of a street performer non the less.

Yeah I agree.
I think a more suitable solid flat tappet stick is what's needed.
 
Yeah I agree.
I think a more suitable solid flat tappet stick is what's needed.
Agreed. Something slightly more aggressive/more duration and lift. I myself would run a LSA @ 106 or less. Throw that 110 LSA cam in a 318 and call it good.
 
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