Complete 4 speed install with rods and shifter

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plumkrazee70

plumkrazee70

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I'm installing the 4 speed and the engine as a unit from underneath. I've hit a snag with the trans. 70 Dart 340 was originally auto, now converting to 4 speed.

I have the rods and shifter aligned and adjusted perfect and mated up to the trans. I'm lowering the car onto the assembly, but I don't see how the rods clear the cross member.

I know the reverse rod goes under the cross member, but do you have to run the other two through the hump hole? Meaning the unit cannot be assembled for installation? Sorry if this is confusing. See pics.

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I don't know squat about manual trans.

But some things come to mind.

  1. The manual hump goes the full length. You have some sheetmetal inplace there. That might be causing your Interference
  2. The mount should force the trans to the passanger side. That might gain you a few inches of you have it on backwards, or the wrong mount
 
Dana67Dart said:
I don't know squat about manual trans.

But some things come to mind.

  1. The manual hump goes the full length. You have some sheetmetal inplace there. That might be causing your Interference
  2. The mount should force the trans to the passanger side. That might gain you a few inches of you have it on backwards, or the wrong mount
Click to expand...

I was wondering if I should remove a bit more metal on the hump side. That will let the shifter assembly clear the floor, however the rods are still going to hit the cross member. The way it is right now.
 
Awesome progress. Glad to see that project coming along. Two of the 3 rods go over the top of the torsion bar member. The sheet metal is cleared off the top side of the cross member except where the flat portion is that the levers go over. There is a reason that 4 speed hump is so large. Look for some photos. Do not cut more than necessary. Be cautious cutting around cross member as none of that is touched.
 
Is the middle section of the cross member stock?

But I think some of your question has been answered. Looks like you would have to remove the two upper rods for install.
 
I have been a manual trans guy since 1970. I have done a couple of conversions.
I have stared at your pics for 10 minutes and I just can't see what's going on. :(
Is that a custom shifter adapter plate? It looks about double-wide to me ........
And are those custom rods? I cannot remember ever seeing rods offset to the driver side that far.

I humbly suggest to remove the entire shifter mechanism, mount the engine and trans, and then go back to the shifter. I would mount the crossmember first, then drop the engine onto the mounts. This will tell you if the brackets are correctly installed onto the engine lugs.
And yes IIRC the crossmember only fits one way,
And yes when done, the engine and trans should be offset to the passenger side about 1inch.
 
Looks like a billet shifter mounting bracket. Does your trans have two spots on the tail shaft to mount the shifter? Yours looks like its mounted on the rear of the tailshaft like an E body would be.
 
Ok, so I found a picture of a 4 speed installed without the rods and shifter. I removed more.metak around the cross member.

Yes, it is a billet shift mount bracket from Brewers, it came with the Hurst competition plus mechanism and rods. Now the 3-4 rod is "custom" as I have Passon OD gearset installed in my case. So the 3-4 is longer and is flipped down.

So from what I understand the 1-2 and the 3-4 rods go OVER the trans tunnel hoop visible from inside the car without the hump installed?

It is A body trans setup. Here are some more pics with it out of the car.

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And the hoop was modified previously to accommodate an OD automatic. That's why it looks funky. Just the middle was trimmed and a new piece welded in it's place. The mounting holes however remained stock.
 
Ok, I went ahead and un bolted the shifter from the adapter and unbolted the shift rod levers ( leaving the rods attached.) From the trans. I'm going to commence with lowering the body onto the engine trans assy. I'll check back in. I'm in for a long night. Lol.

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Ok. Got the shifter and rods installed. I see how it all goes together now. For some reason, I thought it could be installed as an assembly. All the 4 speeds I've ever seen online have been completely out together on the stands. Lol.

I'm gonna bend up another piece of flat stock and box in the upper hoop. Probably over kill but I'm here and it will be a piece of cake.

Still have lots to do. Thanks for the guidance everyone. I'll keep y'all posted.

Oh one question in the shift stops on the shifter. How far in should they be set? The back one is interfering with the placement of the hump.

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plumkrazee70 said:
Ok. Got the shifter and rods installed. I see how it all goes together now. For some reason, I thought it could be installed as an assembly. All the 4 speeds I've ever seen online have been completely out together on the stands. Lol.

I'm gonna bend up another piece of flat stock and box in the upper hoop. Probably over kill but I'm here and it will be a piece of cake.

Still have lots to do. Thanks for the guidance everyone. I'll keep y'all posted.

Oh one question in the shift stops on the shifter. How far in should they be set? The back one is interfering with the placement of the hump.

View attachment 1715926969

View attachment 1715926970

View attachment 1715926971
Click to expand...
Now you're cookin with gas. Looks good!
 
I see 2 solutions to your stop issue.

Move tunnel back enough to allow clearance

Find the correct stop dimension and get a shorter bolt
 
Oldmanmopar said:
If that is and 833 4 spd. you have the wrong linkage. here is the correct linkage. first picture below. second is OD.

4 spd. V

View attachment 1715926974


Over drive V

View attachment 1715926976

View attachment 1715926973

View attachment 1715926975
Click to expand...

I can promise you the linkage isn't wrong. I got the shifter mechanism, rods, linkage arms, and shifter adapter from Brewers. It all bolted up and adjusted perfectly.

Now, what is different is th 3/4 shift rod and that's because I got Passon OD gearset and that kit came with the lengthened rod which also requires 3/4 linkage arm to be pointing down like factory Mopar. So essentially 3rd is 1:1 and 4th is OD. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.mo...n-a833-transmission-bolt-on-and-have-fun/amp/
 
Dana67Dart said:
I see 2 solutions to your stop issue.

Move tunnel back enough to allow clearance

Find the correct stop dimension and get a shorter bolt
Click to expand...

Thank you. I can't move the tunnel back really because it has a natural stop where the seats mount. I'll call Brewers Monday and see what they say.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
I can promise you the linkage isn't wrong. I got the shifter mechanism, rods, linkage arms, and shifter adapter from Brewers. It all bolted up and adjusted perfectly.

Now, what is different is th 3/4 shift rod and that's because I got Passon OD gearset and that kit came with the lengthened rod which also requires 3/4 linkage arm to be pointing down like factory Mopar. So essentially 3rd is 1:1 and 4th is OD. Passon A833 Transmission - A Four-Speed Overdrive for Hemis
Click to expand...
I said if you have a 4 spd. Which is what your title said you have. Evidently you have an OD. . The linkage sets pictured for reference are factory rods. I sold sets to Dan from Brewers and have another large box for him to take to Carlisle. .
 
I'm just curious... does anyone have a factory manual trans photo with the bump removed? I'm curious if the crossmember is the same as automatic crossmember. (I understand the OPS was modified)
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I said if you have a 4 spd. Which is what your title said you have. Evidently you have an OD. . The linkage sets pictured for reference are factory rods. I sold sets to Dan from Brewers and have another large box for him to take to Carlisle. .
Click to expand...

Lol. Sorry.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
It's that same. My hoop wasn't modified under the hoop
Click to expand...


Still not feeling it. So the factory just cut the floor up to put the hump in? The link only had speculations based on swaps, seems odd that the floor pan would not have been stamped special for manual car. It also seems off that the crossmember would not have been special to follow the hump contours.

Update
I just went through the 67 parts catalog...1 floor pan for all, 1 crossmember for all.
I'm dumbfounded!
There is a part number for an auto and for a manual console pan but I could not find a photo reference so I don't know if it is the hump or something else.
 
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The car floors are the same auto and manual. The cross member is the same auto and manual. The difference is the floor sheet metal is cut out to clear the 4 speed linkage in the 4 speed cars. Then the factory stich welded the 4 speed hump over the tunnel and added seam sealer. The factory also added the gusset for the mechanical clutch linkage.
 
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