Confused on 8.25 pinion shims and location

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RIBOATSERVICES

RIBOATSERVICES

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I`m in the middle of changing out the 321 gears in my 73 8.25 sure grip and installing 3.91s. The factory pinion shims are behind the inner pinion bearing race cup and not between the pinion and inner pinion bearing. I checked the factory service manual and sure enough, that is how they shim it. When you purchase the new gears and master install kit they always give you the shims that go between the pinion and bearing and not the larger shims that go behind the bearing cup? Are you guys just removing the shims from behind the cup and installing the new shims the usual way (between the pinion and bearing), and if so, are you taking the measurment of the old shims and using that same thickness and adding it as a starting point. Its driving me crazy, and I know someone out there has run across this. Just dont want to screw it up, plus its a ***** changing gears on your back :}
 
If you don't having a checking bearing,(one that slides on and off the pinion), then yeah it is easier to knock the race out and adjust your shim pack thickness. It accomplishes the same thing.
 
Thanks, I do have the checking bearings, just wasnt sure if it was ok to deviate from the way Ma Mopar did it. I guess it will work, since they dont send you the OEM type shims. Time to get back under there and see.
 
oldkimmer said:
It sure is. I have used the old 1 over with a .010 shim b4 Kim
Click to expand...
Thats exactly what i ended up using! I had to use a 36 inch pipe wrench on the yoke and a 3/4 inch breaker bar on the other side and used the floor jack under the breaker bar to get that damn crush sleeve to crush!
 
I`m kind of glad I didnt do this on a lift, I would have knocked the damn car of the lift trying to get that damn preload set!
 
I do them on a lift with a big pipe wrench and a pipe wedged against a leaf spring and then a 3/4" breaker bar and a 2' pipe on it. And just before I blow a nut I can get them to crush.
 
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