connectors and contacts supply?

[grjammer]

I'm looking for the female firewall connector contacts, and I need a headlight switch connector for a 67 bcuda, ebay has contacts but look cheap and expensive.
I need a supplier if anyone knows of one.
Thanks

 

[RedFish]

NAPA stores have the OEM type terminals for the bulkhead but not the plastic connectors they're in. I think the plastic connector at the headlight switch is the same for umpteen years so a good used one should be easy to get from parts wanted form here.

 

[BillGrissom]

Search "56 terminal" (or 57, I forget), also "GM terminal" or "Packard 56" (company that made them). You can buy on ebay or at auto electric websites. Most do look a bit different, but will fit and probably make better contact (large spring leaf). They were used in GM & Mopar from 60's to 80's (later in motorhomes). I removed all the female bulkhead terminals and cleaned, when I had the dash harness on the bench. Use a thin, bent flat screwdriver to release the latch (engine side). Might be best to release the bulkhead connector (push in metal side fingers) and push it into the cabin. If you buy new terminals, gold-plated ones should corrode less.

 

[grjammer]

Thanks for all the info, I will check the napa around the corner, I have already replaced the engine side connectors and contacts and have a good dash side connector, harness is on the bench and I am going through it thoroughly to fix the butchery. I am an electrician on aircraft by trade so this is a cake walk but finding quality terminals inexpensively is probably not going to happens so I will have to bite the bullet. Ive seen the results of poor connections at mopar b/h connectors before with the high current capapbility of the wiring passing through them but want to leave it all stock at this time. in the future when i do a full body/paint job all the wiring will be highly modified with some neat aircraft tricks. relays, leds, annunciators .etc.. I just want to drive the dang thing this summer after i drop in this fresh 360.

 

[BillGrissom]

grjammer,

You sound smart enough to fab the "diode bypass" in the engine bay I designed. That will better protect your bulkhead connectors, while still leaving your ammeter functional. An add-on you wire from ALT output stud to BATT+ (or starter relay big stud). I did that in my 64 & 65 A-bodies, even though they have the big "buss bar" bulkhead feed-thrus that avoid melting (63 & 65 only). A photo from pompis, a smart member in Sweden who is the only one who reported following my approach so far. If you do so, please report back w/ results. I gave operating results for my earlier 75 A diodes (in my 65 Dart), but not with the bigger diodes that fab easier. I will once I start driving my 64 Valiant (found yesterday I need to change timing set & cam, so pushed back).

Read
www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=176755&highlight=Modernized
www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=214956&highlight=ammeter
www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=228908&highlight=diode
www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=228991&highlight=cut+in+two

 

[inkjunkie]

Have you checked Del City? Get most of my electric stuff from them...

 

[pishta]

check out 521restorations email [email protected] I bought some Packard56 males and females from him, good Mopar guy and just rebuilt my stock connector with new brass. they come out with a pick slid up the side from the pointed end.

 

[grjammer]

Thanks for all info and links, I have new brass coming tomorrow, I'm going to stick to stock configuration for now, I picked up a complete, perfect condition engine harness on ebay, no burns, or meltdown. went through it and rewrapped it up. Also got a old firewall connector for the dash side, In perfect condition...so some cars dont seem to have a problem unless the wiring is shorted or additional substantial loads are installed. I found the culprit on my 67, was in the headlight wiring where it came down the kick panel to the dmmer switch, a small short that snowballed into a meltdown. one wire throughout harness had burned into several others bypassing the fuses. The car still ran however and I drove it 4 hours to get it home when i purchased it. I will give this a try just to get it back on the road and start building my new harness with aircraft type wire and connectors I can scrounge from from work. we generate plenty of scrap. I like the diode idea, will implement something like that once I build my harness with a brain box and upgraded fuse center. great links and info on here. Thanks again everyone.