I made the top out of an automatic. The shifter boot fits inside snug and i just glued it on . The problem is as you can see the shifter is pretty close to the edge when shifted in reverse and then with the boot not egnough movement . Others have made there own tops . Should the boot fit tight inside?
Maybe the boot should be down lower in the hole ? Like with bosses on the 4 speed top ?I made the top out of an automatic. The shifter boot fits inside snug and i just glued it on . The problem is as you can see the shifter is pretty close to the edge when shifted in reverse and then with the boot not egnough movement . Others have made there own tops . Should the boot fit tight inside?
It has the appearance of a "A" body console shifter....but is the Inland? It's a complicated set of bends to get it to work right.
How do you end in in this situation?
Did you add a console to a car without one?
Did you change the shifter out?
Did you make a 4 speed out of an automatic?
It must have worked at one time
Thanks. I thought you can only do the adjustment in neutral with the pin in the hurst shifter?Obviously 2nd, 4th and reverse share the same "back " position. Assuming the position for the shifter hole the is in a workable spot... with the linkage rods off the tranny, you might engage reverse with an adjustable wrench and find a rod adjustment setting where the "back" shifter position is reachable with the reverse rod. Then try one of the forward gears (1st or 3rd) and adjust the rod accordingly...
There's got to be an adjustment that fits.
I hope this helps
Will that be ok on a 67 cast iron transmission? Kinda new to the 4 speedsin the early a-body 4spds, for Hurst shifters, I always used the (1/4"?) pin method for the forward gears, but adjusted the reverse lever all on its own, irrespective of the pin.
yes, I believe soWill that be ok on a 67 cast iron transmission? Kinda new to the 4 speeds