contact pattern

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All I can tell you is what I see and what I would do. Now if you think this is not a matched set of gears, stop, throw these out and get a good set! May explain why the pattern is different on neighboring teeth.
Thanks, Is it even possible? example: An uninformed soul, has a 3.23 open 89 case, wants a sure grip, buys a carrier with one, and 3.55 ring gear. would the teeth be close enough to even mesh?
 
fishy, 175 ftlb.s seems pretty high for torque with an eliminator?
From the reading I`ve done it seems 125 is enough with the eliminator?
My wrench only goes to 150
Their`s only .016 of shims on it now, I`ll take it all back apart and see if I can get that nut torque alot higher with adding the shims, and report back.
Anyone want to opine on the pattern/depth with the new pics?

Why do you think a crush sleeve eliminator changes the torque value? The 741 and 742 cases use a solid pinion spacer like you installed. The torque spec for them is 240 Ft. lbs. For that reason it seems to me that 175 ft. lbs. of torque if anything is on the light side.

Maybe someone else can comment on the torque setting. It's been a long time ago when I first used a crush sleeve eliminator kit and that's where I read to use 175 ft. lbs and have been doing so for several yrs. with good results. Since it's been so long I don't remember who wrote it up to reference it, sorry
 
Thanks, Is it even possible? example: An uninformed soul, has a 3.23 open 89 case, wants a sure grip, buys a carrier with one, and 3.55 ring gear. would the teeth be close enough to even mesh?

I'm not sure they'd even mesh at all doing that. Depends on how their cut. I know for sure that ring and pinion gears are lapped together as a set and you can't mix and match them and expect a good pattern
 
Are those gears used ?

If yes see the next 2 questions, if no go to 3 thru 7

1. Did the previous owner tell you the bl they were running at ?
2. Did the previous owner give you the pin depth shim it was using ?
If yes to both toss them, buying used gears without the set up they were installed with is like playing with yourself using a cheese grater, it'll pop off eventually but do you really want to do it ?

3. before worrying about pin preload lets get the pattern within reason.
4. using no preload shim or crush collar tighten the pin up till it needs light force to turn
5. set the carrier in and adjust bl to .007 to .008
6. run the pattern turning the pin and putting as much pressure as you can on the carrier like a brake.
7. post the pics of the drive and coast side like i did
 
On used gearset
Is this a normal pattern on used gears?

Are those gears used ?

If yes see the next 2 questions, if no go to 3 thru 7

1. Did the previous owner tell you the bl they were running at ?
2. Did the previous owner give you the pin depth shim it was using ?
If yes to both toss them, buying used gears without the set up they were installed with is like playing with yourself using a cheese grater, it'll pop off eventually but do you really want to do it ?

3. before worrying about pin preload lets get the pattern within reason.
4. using no preload shim or crush collar tighten the pin up till it needs light force to turn
5. set the carrier in and adjust bl to .007 to .008
6. run the pattern turning the pin and putting as much pressure as you can on the carrier like a brake.
7. post the pics of the drive and coast side like i did
#1 NO, This was sold to me from a member, as a drop in usable complete center section. There was O backlash.
#2 A shim was under bearing when removed, it had a 32 stamped on it and looked to be .032 . I did`nt measure.

{ is like playing with yourself using a cheese grater}
I preferr a household meat grinder:D
#7 You only posted drive side.8)
I`ll go out now and do as you suggest and report back. stay tuned, be back in a bit. thanks
 
No, 3.23 R & P will not interchange at all with 3.55 or any other ratio. But What I thought you were saying that your not sure that this 3.23 R & P was a matched set. Like maybe the pinion was from a different R & P set.
 
No, 3.23 R & P will not interchange at all with 3.55 or any other ratio. But What I thought you were saying that your not sure that this 3.23 R & P was a matched set. Like maybe the pinion was from a different R & P set.
Thanks, I blew this apart again for supershafts, probably get a reply in 4 days. the pinion is a 3.55 as ring but with no identifing #`s as to say they match?
#`s on ring say 2070898 3.55-1
MS 29 2 8 72 2
#`s on pinion say 3507397
3.55
Has your opinion changed any with the new pattern?
 
That is showing it is riding on the tip of the ring on coast.
Then it shows its on the root on drive.

If you look at my pic you'll see both patterns easily and clearly.
If that is using the same depth it was set up with at this point leave it alone. Install the new bearings and set the bl to what it was , this is a used set of gears but it's in the same housing.

.
 
..........I would get ahold of the seller to see what can be negotiated, as those gears will never be quiet and if u change the pinion depth from where its at u wont even b able to stand driving the car, it will drive u insane...........kim.....
 
That is showing it is riding on the tip of the ring on coast.
Then it shows its on the root on drive.

If you look at my pic you'll see both patterns easily and clearly.
If that is using the same depth it was set up with at this point leave it alone. Install the new bearings and set the bl to what it was , this is a used set of gears but it's in the same housing.

.
OK, I was focusing on where you had the compound [drive]
Thanks for your expertise and timely responce.

..........I would get ahold of the seller to see what can be negotiated, as those gears will never be quiet and if u change the pinion depth from where its at u wont even b able to stand driving the car, it will drive u insane...........kim.....
Thanks for your opinion, This was bought 4 years ago and I cleaned my PMs and lost the corrospondence, if that can be recovered? Pretty sure It came from a N-E state.
So your thinking they`ll never be quiet huh? Well that sucks..The seller knew this, and decided to unload them on some, unsuspecting, sucker on FABO.
 
Try taking out .010 run the pattern again with bl at .006/.007 , do not lose the original depth shim.
Then put that pic of the pattern up again.

At the top side of my pic is the drive and the bottom side its the coast
 
You never really know what they will sound like until they are installed. Listen to Supershafts, he is really sharp here. Nice to have him around.
 
Try taking out .010 run the pattern again with bl at .006/.007 , do not lose the original depth shim.
Then put that pic of the pattern up again.

At the top side of my pic is the drive and the bottom side its the coast
Will do, Guess I`ll be forking out for a good splitter and my own in.lb. wrench, I had this guys wrench for over a week, I`ll return today.
With an eliminator and crush nut, what torque would you put on the pinion nut? thanks

You never really know what they will sound like until they are installed. Listen to Supershafts, he is really sharp here. Nice to have him around.
Yep, highly appreciated, I like to hear all on topic input, lifetime real world experience, is not to be ignored either.8)
 
When I set up gears and I really don't have a starting point such as you are doing ( since you really don't know how thick the shims are that were behind the large race). I make large shim amounts like .010-.015, either adding or taking away until I can tell I'm heading in the right direction. You know the thickness of the shim behind the bearing, it stands to reason that if you pulled out pieces of a shim or shims that were sticking out from under the race that the pinion was closer to the ring gear than just the shim behind the bearing would put it. Am I making sense to you? Yukon gear makes some good installation manuals. Here is a link.


http://www.yukongear.com/Manuals.aspx
 
[QUOTE=SGBARRACUDA; Am I making sense to you?
Yep, thanks, and I think I`ve read every install lit. including what you posted on the friggen interwebbie.
Yes that piece of shim was a part of the puzzle, but how it escaped from where it was at is beyond me, and how the remnants dissappeared.
The previous owner was into this thing big time, tell tale signs were chewed up nut, side adjusters, hanging chad/shim etc and overheated pinion bearings. I`ll getter figured out with the help of my fabo friends8)
 
Sounds to me that the previous owner really didn't know what he was doing. I'm beginning to think this set of gears will never be quiet. I hope I'm wrong for your sake.
 
Sounds to me that the previous owner really didn't know what he was doing. I'm beginning to think this set of gears will never be quiet. I hope I'm wrong for your sake.
You and Ol kim, agree, and I`m wondering if I should go ahead and bite the bullit and buy a new gearset. I contacted admin. yesterday to see if they could recover a month of PMs when this transaction took place, have`nt heard back yet. The community really needs to be warned of this sellers actions.
 
Never buy used gears. Would you buy used rod and main bearings ????
Now your just being a wise guy Mr.
If I was to pull my "God knows how many miles" center out of my cuda, and sell it to a member, he`d be one happy camper, laying two black stripes, with no noises.
As far as I`m concerned, if anybody needs help with reading a pattern I`ll referr them to SGBARRACUDA cause he knows wtf he`s talking about.
All is good now, and I thank everybody for helping.
 
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