Cranks but won't start

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ctribou

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Rewired the dash when i put in a 5" autometer tach, 5" autometer speedo, and a 2 5/8" fuel gauge in the stock gauge locations. Now the car cranks but won't start.

I have 12 volts from the ballast resistor all the way to the + coil, only when the - side is disconected, when the - side of the coil is connected it goes to 4 volts which would be why the car won't start, not enough power to jump the gap on the spark plugs. The only wires on the - side of the coil are the tach and the wire that goes to the orange ecu box, same thing happens with the tach disconnected.

ran fine before the rewire, only touched the gauge wires. I do have the ammeter + and - wires connected together. And with a timing light hooked up it to cyl #1 it sparks 1 time when the engine starts to crank over then sparks 1 time when i stop cranking but does not spark during cranking.
 
you no longer have 12 volts to the coil while cranking. as a test run a jumper from the pos of the battery to the coil and see if it starts( you will have to pull the jumper wire off to shut it down). if it does start it verifies the problem is no + 12 while cranking. chekc to se that the brown wire on the keyswitch is still connected and check the bulkhead connections as well.
 
Still no spark, if everything is hooked up there is 6.8 volts at the coil (I put in another ground wire on the orange ecu box)

When i disconnect the main harness plug on the orange ecu box then i do get 13 volts at the coil.
 
Hmm, maybe your box went bad? I've heard lots of bad things about those orange boxes...
 
hey ct i just did the same thing to my car. I put in an rmd and all new autometer gauges, i had power to the coil and no spark .try this disconect the plug to the distributor and jump the box side of the plug, if you get spark your box and coil are good. next take a ohm meter and see if you get 270-370 ohms from the pick-up modual in the distributor. mine was 0 ohms changed the modual and it started up. hope this helps. hey you from ct.
 
thanks for the help, I figured it out. the autometer tach was hooked up wrong, killing the coil, so i put a new coil on and it still wouldn't start. then i saw the cap and rotor were corroded, probably happened form the humid weather we've had and i haven't been driving it in over 3 months. changed that and it started right up. thanks
 
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