unfortunatly, it is not a chrysler product in 95. at the end of 94 to the begining of 95, they split up, and dropped the crysler laser, which was the only chrysler in them. and at that point, the engines started to be build in us, and the blocks and cranks were made here in the us, no longer in japan i believe
ok. i build these cars for alot of people, and have at the moment 4 of them sitting in my yard. they are all turbo front wheel drive and all wheel drive models. here is first hand knowledge
if the car you are buying is a mitsubishi made by chrsler, then it would be what is called a 1st generation eclipse, eagle talon, or plymouth laserwhich was built between 1990-1994. if it is a mitsubishi product, it would be a 1995 to 1999
here is where the misconception is.
one, any car can crankwalk. this is when the crank END-PLAY goes beyond tolerance in the block.
the difference between the 90-94 and the 95-99 is that the 90-94 engine were made out of this country. the 95-99, the engines were made here in the us.
all of these cars are called DSM, but in 95, plymouth dropped the laser model, and diamond star motors split up, and then us starting making the engines.
when they were made in the us, there were crappy spec checks of the blocks, and cranks. these are also what are called 7 bolt engines. the 90-94 had 6 bolt engines. this is determined by how many bolts hold the flywheel to the block. but in may of 92, they started to put a 7 bolt in the dsms'. these however were still made over seas till 95.
the 6 bolt and 7 bolt engines from 90-94 are rarely known to have crankwalk issues.
95-99 have a horrible issue with it. but in 97, they redesigned the main thrust bearing, and came up with a split thrust washer design. it did little to solve the problem
auto do not usually have the crankwalk issue.
is it also a issue that when using a heavy duty clutch with more force, it causes that crank to be pushed onto the trust bearing more. they say that if you go with a ftermarket hevay duty clutch, to diconnect the clutch saftey switch, so when you start it, you do not have to hold the clutch in while it cranks to start. what happens is that when thwe engine sits overnight, and when you go to start it, the thrust bearing is dry, and all the force of the clutch is metal to metal with no lubrication.
there hundreds of reasons but this it what it comes down to
90-92.5 only have a few heard of cases of c.w
92.5-94 are weaker than the 90-92.5 because they use a smaller rod, but also is rare to c.w.
95-end of 96 are the worst, and have failed miserbally with a one stage up clutch and pressure plate.
97-99 are supposed to be redesigned, but also sufer the fate of crankwalk
also, the 95 and 96 have a crank sensor near the crank and works on a crank trigger. when they start to walk, the trigger actually starts to just eat the sensor up, then you lose spark.
if you ever go to buy one that they tell you that they replaced the crank sensor, DO NOT BUY IT
if they told you they canverted to a 1g cam angle sensor, DO NOT BUY IT. WHEN THE TRIGGER EATS THE SENSOR TO NOTHING, THEY CAN RUN A 1G SENSOR OFF OF THE CAM, AND GET SPARK THAT WAY. but that also means that the crank has walked horribly, and the engine is about to just die and lock up
i hope this helps
Anyway, the car I want is a manual, but there is a problem with these cars. It's something called crank walk in which the crank after a whole bunch of miles starts moving around on the clutch side of the motor and wearing through the bearing, once it gets to a certain point the motor seizes up and is completely ruined. Some people say that it is the load of the throwout bearing pressing against the clutch and the the crankshaft and pushing the crank out of alignment. Some people say that it is the oil squirters getting clogged up.
