Damsel in distress

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A little hard for us to diagnose since not there seeing what you see, and you don't know exactly what to look for or how to describe things exactly, and exact does matter. This is common with many posters, using terms like "won't fire". Those are more a diagnosis than an observation, and are thus often jumping ahead too far. Oil showing on the stick is very good.

The main thing is if the crankshaft will turn. That is the very bottom cluster of pulleys. It even has a mark you match against the "timing tab" (0 to 10 deg marks). One can turn over the crankshaft by hand, by tugging on the "fan belt". If no AC or power steering, that is the only belt. You try to turn the engine over clockwise (when viewed standing in front), i.e. turn the pulley like you would screw on a jar lid. Disconnect the battery - cable first, so the engine can't start. Standing on the passenger's side, grab the fan belt with 2 hands, pulling up on the lower part and pushing away on the upper part. You should be able to budge the crank, even with the spark plugs in. I have known women who work in factories with a stronger grip than me, but you might need to enlist a man under 60. With the plugs in, you should feel each cylinder resist you, which is good. If you feel each cylinder (6 per 2 revolutions) resist you strongly like an "air spring", your engine is excellent.

The alternator shocking you sounds strange. Even touching the +12 V battery terminal shouldn't give a shock.

My guess is the "clank" sound was more of a "clunk", and was just the starter solenoid trying to engage, but dropping out because the battery voltage is too low. Did it sound more like the classic "click-click-click" you see in movies that means "dead battery"? Don't give the battery a "pass" until you get a multimeter (free at Harbor Freight) and measure >10 V between the 2 battery cables (touch the cables, not the battery posts) as you try to crank over the engine. It is common to get large voltage drops thru the post to cable connection, which is why everyone sells battery brushes. Ditto for all the starter connections: thick cable to starter, starter case to transmission, engine grounding strap to battery - terminal.
 
Thank you.. I called a couple places to have it rebuilt and it ranges from having a person I know do it for 1100-3700... think I'll keep her insides and get it rebuilt at a different time... I'm needin something a little less painful in the $$$ department
 
Mollysmom64 said:
Oil sending thingy blew my oil everywhere and engine locked... that being said where do I search for a new engine... salvage? ???
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I lost you. In post 88, you said "all pulleys turn" and prior you said "still oil in pan". Why jump to the very unlikely conclusion that your engine is bad? Your engine may be excellent.

Read my post above this and report back.
 
I don't have AC or power staring to begin with and no it wasn't a "click,click" of the starter... I know what that sounds like
 
BillGrissom said:
I lost you. In post 88, you said "all pulleys turn" and prior you said "still oil in pan". Why jump to the very unlikely conclusion that your engine is bad? Your engine may be excellent.

Read my post above this and report back.
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She did get a local FABO help. Bad Rod...
 
The oil in the photo of your engine may have come from the sending unit if it went bad.
Check to see if it 's damaged or not. As someone else said if the diaphragm went in it that could account for the noise and all the oil. The top may have come apart and made the noise when it hit something. It's hard to tell from the photo if it's all in one piece or not.

As for the wire you have in your hand in post 100, that looks like it would connect to the oil sender. It being so made me question if it's a bad oil sender.
The engine produces 45- 60 pound of pressure which would make the oil spray a bit. This is just a theory I maybe totally wrong.

It's always better to check the cheapest things to fix first instead of major things and have pay for something you don't really need to have done.
It may only be combination of small things that need to be fixed and nothing major.
So don't give in yet. Good luck on getting it figured out.

View attachment oil.jpg the sender is circled in red.
 
Thanks for your advice... if the oil sending unit is bad would it not start? Also how do I check to see if it's bad. The wire definitely is because it's about to snap in two.

Also why when I had at least lights before getting battery charged and now have nothing.... I've cleaned the cables and battery post with wire brush as suggested even though they arn't dirty and look some what new.

I just find it hard to believe that I blew a rod when everything I read about the slant 6 is that they are basically unbreakable and I can't see or feel any holes in engine
 
Oil sending unit will not affect the no start issue. Even the best engine must have oil and oil pressure to survive. You may have a loose cable somewhere besides the battery posts. Either at the starter or starter relay or a bad engine or chassis ground.
 
Mollysmom64 said:
Also why when I had at least lights before getting battery charged and now have nothing.... I've cleaned the cables and battery post with wire brush as suggested even though they arn't dirty and look some what new.
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You need to make some checks. There's a possibility that the battery is reverse charged, or hooked up backwards. When you charged the battery or replaced it, did you notice any electrical smell or smoke?

Do you have a 12V test lamp and / or a multimeter?

For a very quick preliminary check, locate the starter relay, like this, somewhere under the hood:

starterrelay.jpg


Take your meter or test light and ground to the engine. Move the other probe, from battery positive post to the "big stud" on the starter relay. You should have battery voltage, IE over 12V at both locations

If so, move your probe to the big stud (big black wire) at the alternator This also should have battery voltage.

If you DO have voltage at the relay stud, but NOT at the alternator stud, you may have blown the "fuse link" which goes from the starter relay stud into the bulkhead connector.

IF YOU have a meter, measure battery voltage and make CERTAIN the polarity is correct........neg to ground, and positive to the relay stud. With your meter correctly hooked up, the display should indicate reversed polarity. If you don't "get" this reverse the leads of the meter purposely and you should notice a "dash" or other indicator on the meter display
 
if you are sure the rod diagnosis is correct --then here you go on craigslist now.



https://wichita.craigslist.org/pts/5545719128.html

this was my slant car & when i changed to a 225 years ago. i couldn't locate the threads on this car so they might be lost with server upgrades & such ,Lawrence
 

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Mollysmom64 said:
@67dart273....battery, starter relay and alternator all have 12. Something voltage. Now what ;)
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How about trying to start it in neutral?? The neutral safety switch may be keeping it from cranking over, or it may be plugged into the wrong terminal on the relay!! It would not effect the lights and such, that sounds like a no ground or fusible link gone bad!! Damn I wish I was closer to come by and help!!

Memike offered his 170ci slant 6 on page 3, how close are you to Jonesboro, AR?? He is about 50 miles from Memphis so he must be at the top of the state! His was a good running combo only pulled for a V8 swap!!
 
Sure, the oil sender going bad can make it not start if the oil leaked out and the engine locked up.

So far, all I have seen is you say the fan belt turns. I have not seen once where you have verified the crankshaft pulley turns, unless I missed it. THAT is what you are looking for. It is very easy to turn the fan belt without turning the crankshaft pulley. Especially if the belt is old and glazed. It will slip easily. If you can verify the crankshaft pulley turns and will turn a FULL 360 degrees without issue, then I think the engine may be ok.
 
cosgig said:
How about trying to start it in neutral?? The neutral safety switch may be keeping it from cranking over, or it may be plugged into the wrong terminal on the relay!! It would not effect the lights and such, that sounds like a no ground or fusible link gone bad!! Damn I wish I was closer to come by and help!!

Memike offered his 170ci slant 6 on page 3, how close are you to Jonesboro, AR?? He is about 50 miles from Memphis so he must be at the top of the state! His was a good running combo only pulled for a V8 swap!!
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there is no neutral safety switch on 69 and back manual transmission
 
if you do get a new engine ....need to make sure the crank is drilled for a manual transmission.

it would be a lot of work to get it only to find ......whhooooops ....the input shaft is hitting the back of the crank. #-o
 
Yes crankshaft pully turns when doing it the way you described bill....however only counted 5 resisted points and then stuck and won't go further.
 
did all 6 sparkplugs look good ?

I guess the next step is pulling the valve cover off so you can see if all the rocker arms are doing what they should while you turn the crank
 
Ok, of the crank pulley turns then stops, I certainly would say "that ain't good".
 
Omg.... someone said if it turns it's good and now I'm hearing if it doesn't turn it's bad.... please someone tell me which on is correct.
 
Mollysmom64 said:
Omg.... someone said if it turns it's good and now I'm hearing if it doesn't turn it's bad.... please someone tell me which on is correct.
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re-read what you just said...it is the same thing, and BOTH are correct :D



but, the point is, it needs to be able to turn the entire 360 degree...then its good

if you can only turn it 3/4s of a turn in between jams, well, that's no good...unless you can think of a way to convert it to a/c :wack:
 
Mollysmom64 said:
@67dart273....battery, starter relay and alternator all have 12. Something voltage. Now what ;)
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This is a stick shift? You should get it to crank by "jumpering" the starter relay. Make sure the transmission is in neutral. Take a screwdriver and jumper across the two largest exposed terminals on the starter relay, the "big stud" which is battery, and the "square" looking terminal. This should cause the starter to engage and crank.

You still don't have lights? That sounds like a bad battery cable connection.
 
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