Darn oil pan

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SGBARRACUDA said:
Have you checked the transmission mount? Make sure it’s not crushed and worn out?
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yes, i replaced it because it was pretty rough. I am 'kinda' sure it didnt do this when i first put it together, but its been so long i wont swear on that. Years ago when i put the stock 440 in it with a pan that wasnt notched at all, the centerlink banged the pan all to hell, so when i put together the engine in it now, i got the 187 pan and i swear i remember checking it out after i got it all together and it didnt touch it because i remember thinking what a relief, but i dont know what the heck could have changed that much
 
mopower440 said:
I installed the oil pan that is recommended for an A body big block swap and noticed the idler/draglink STILL hits the pan in another spot other than where the pan has the notched dimple..Is anyone else having that problem?
View attachment 1715663233 View attachment 1715663234
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Engine location is critical in these swaps.
1/2" too low or offset will cause problems.
I just did one with a motor plate and the directions had the dimensions.
I'll see if I still have that tomorrow......
 
mopower440 said:
......i dont know what the heck could have changed that much
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FWIW, my passenger side valve cover is about 1-1/2" off the firewall.....

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As you can see the driver side is not going back any further.......

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Maybe add a 1/4" shim on the trans mount?
 
Center of crankshaft to top of K frame needs to be 5 1/4"
Center of crankshaft to framerails needs to be offset towards passenger side 2 1/2"
Then make sure your valve covers are plumb to framerails.
That's your factory starting point.
 
ok, out here measuring it, the back of the passenger side valve cover is 1 7/8 from the firewall and the driver side is 2 3/4. The offset from the center of crank to passenger side is 3" and the distance between the center of crank to top of K-member is about 5 1/4
 
That area is a problem on every cars with the early center link. Put one 3 lb. sledge against the pan and hit it with another 3 lb...
 
Wear goggles if your hitting a hammer with a hammer! I had a red hot spark hit me in the knee hitting 2 hammer faces and it broke the skin. Had a shard in the eye once, no fun for about 90 minutes, the time it took my wife to take me to the optometrist and get it extracted with a Q-tip. She rolled the Q-tip backwards while digging out the shard and it snagged and pulled it out. She said I was lucky there was enough to catch on the Q-tip without surgery.
 
pishta said:
Wear goggles if your hitting a hammer with a hammer! I had a red hot spark hit me in the knee hitting 2 hammer faces and it broke the skin. Had a shard in the eye once, no fun for about 90 minutes, the time it took my wife to take me to the optometrist and get it extracted with a Q-tip. She rolled the Q-tip backwards while digging out the shard and it snagged and pulled it out. She said I was lucky there was enough to catch on the Q-tip without surgery.
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Nice smooth, clean magnet is my best friend.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Nice smooth, clean magnet is my best friend.
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It was actually aluminum....and I was even wearing my glasses but it snuck right up under them. One in a million angle once I thought about it.
 
pishta said:
It was actually aluminum....and I was even wearing my glasses but it snuck right up under them. One in a million angle once I thought about it.
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Yeah I've had that happen, blowing out a intake manifold, luckily it was dust. Magnet doesn't help that.
 
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