Dart driveshaft needed. Any info would help

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superslant

superslant

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Hey there, have a 63 dart gt. Have a mildly built /6 in it and an 8 3/4 rearend. I thought about putting a 727 I have that was previously built but its out of an 85 pickup. Does that matter at all? It currently has a pushbutton trans that is in pretty rough shape so want to replace it. It has a trunion style driveshaft that doesnt fit now that I put the 8 3/4 in back. So can I put the 727 out of the pickup and is there a stock driveshaft that will fit under the car? I have a 727 out of a 74 scamp I could also use if the truck trans wont. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
As long as the 727's are from slant sixes.Some say the 727 in a early A is a tight fit. I think a driveshaft from a 108'' wheelbase Duster with a 8 3/4 will still be too long but don't know for sure. More than likely you will have to have one cut to fit.
There is also some thing about what year slant crank you are using(pre 68 have a smaller crank register for the torque converter snout) Don't quote me on this but I think(not sure) the 727's have the large converter snout.Things to check into before you get too deep.
 
Yeah, the motor is out of a 74 scamp. Would it be smarter to just have the push button rebuilt? The motor is all balanced, has a comp cam, valve job, 4 barrel and split headers. Then an 8 3/4 out of a barracuda big block car I believe. I think it has 3.55's. I put the springs that came with the rearend back there too. Hoping to be able to smoke those 14" tires a little bit but we will see. haha. Hopefully I can afford to put a 408 in someday or maybe a late model Hemi. Always want more. Part of the hobby I guess.
 
I have read that about the only way to mate a 68+ transmission (904 or 727) with an earlier engine (slant or SB) is to use an early torque converter and associated input shaft. Alternatives are to have the later torque converter snout machined smaller (or a custom converter) or machine a bigger hole in your crankshaft.

I would think that rebuilding your cable-shift transmission would be simplest since you can keep your shifter. I recently got a rebuild kit for both of mine for $35 on ebay. He had several listed, so search.

Using a 727 would rob power. I have also heard that you need to beat up the sheet-metal lip on the body to fit one in an early-A and it is still tight. I recall the 727 uses a larger flexplate too.

A driveline shop could fairly easily cut your existing driveshaft shorter. A lot of people don't like keeping the ball & trunnion joint since parts are rare and expensive, though I got spares for mine reasonably on ebay recently. Several have had a shop fabricate a whole new driveshaft, using a sliding joint common in trucks. Didn't cost too much. Search for posts here.
 
Charrlie_S said:
Putting a '74 motor up to a 63 PB 904 trans, requires a '74 flexplate and an adapter bushing for the end of the crank. (I have the bushing available for $20 shipped). I would recomment up grading your driveshaft. See link.
http://www.earlycuda.org/tech/ujoint.htm
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Did you mean I need the '63 flexplate on the 74 motor? I had an 85 motor in the car previously and it bolted right up. I didnt drive it more than around the yard though before pulling it back out. That motor was out of a pickup. I had the idea that the flexplates were all the same. I measured up the one on the 74 and its the same as the one on the 85. Measured it all up because they only go on one way. Thanks for any info.
 
Thanks for all the info guys. Always has to be more to it. Will get it figured out though and have her on the road this summer hopefully.
 
superslant said:
Did you mean I need the '63 flexplate on the 74 motor?
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No, you need a 68 or newer flexplate on the 74 motor. This will be obvious if you try to use the wrong flexplate, it will not fit. But don't forget the bushing in the end of the crank, if you use the push button trans. This is not so obvious, as the trans and engine will bolt together without the bushing, but can have vibration problems, possible crack the flexplate, and/or ruin the trans pump bushing and/or seal.
All 60 to 67 slant six 904 flexplates are the same. All 68 to 87 slant six 904 flexplates are the same.
 
understood. Thanks. Is there only one place to get that bushing? The guy charging 40$ or is it something that can be made pretty easily?
 
a 727 will fit but I would go with newer slip yolk 904 it will be easier to bolt in but you will likely still have to have a driveshaft made, but its not that bad if you have your front and back part to the driveshaft they just supply a new tube or cut your old one. Less then $300
 
superslant said:
understood. Thanks. Is there only one place to get that bushing? The guy charging 40$ or is it something that can be made pretty easily?
Click to expand...

It can be made fairly easily, if you have a lathe. But if you figure time=money, it is not worth making just one, at the price I charge.
I have the bushings available. $20 includes shipping, in the US. Send a PM if interested.
 
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