The “car is in storage, so I can’t take more pictures “ is the opening line of many scams.
Decent Deal? Anything stick out that should cause me to not make the trek?
- Thread starter Fizzer6001
- Start date
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Too bad you're so far away,. I'd do you a solid and inspect it for you. I've been doing it since 2017 for Manheim auto auction. I'm starting my own business at the beginning if the year for inspection and appraisals.
Biggest things imo is: check gaps between all panels (hood to fenders,hood to cowl, fenders to doors, doors to 1/4 s, trunk gaps) . Bring a good small flashlight for confined areas (under dash, in 1/4 drop offs, under car) a flexible magnet to look for bodywork.
If you want more pointers, pm me. Good luck!
Biggest things imo is: check gaps between all panels (hood to fenders,hood to cowl, fenders to doors, doors to 1/4 s, trunk gaps) . Bring a good small flashlight for confined areas (under dash, in 1/4 drop offs, under car) a flexible magnet to look for bodywork.
If you want more pointers, pm me. Good luck!
The OP asked for discussion!!
^^RRR is so right as in consider this, it is always worth more to buy from a trusted seller. Buying from someone that can give detailed details as to exactly what has been done with the car. Honest information and details!! Body/paint. Engine, trans, rearend. Interior. Suspension. Electricals. Yes, even the glass and window mechanisms!
Where has this car lived its life? Always garaged. 40 years in a cow pasture? The salt belt and everyday driver its first 5-6 years or rust free Az.(Az. is not always 100% rust free!).
I feel for the guy that is trying to buy a classic that has limited experience and/or knowledge. It is hard. Frig magnet or $75 paint check depth tool? If a guy has never done body/pant, he really has no clue as to what is involved. Buy from someone that you can trust and did the work or paid to have work done and he KNOWS what was done!!!!!! Know what you are paying for!!! I know of perfect work that the little guy does and I know if lipsick on a pig the big guy does!
And a guy can hand you a box of receipts but that has nothing to do really as to what a car is worth. It shows what he spent. What he paid "someone"!
Its hard!!!
^^RRR is so right as in consider this, it is always worth more to buy from a trusted seller. Buying from someone that can give detailed details as to exactly what has been done with the car. Honest information and details!! Body/paint. Engine, trans, rearend. Interior. Suspension. Electricals. Yes, even the glass and window mechanisms!
Where has this car lived its life? Always garaged. 40 years in a cow pasture? The salt belt and everyday driver its first 5-6 years or rust free Az.(Az. is not always 100% rust free!).
I feel for the guy that is trying to buy a classic that has limited experience and/or knowledge. It is hard. Frig magnet or $75 paint check depth tool? If a guy has never done body/pant, he really has no clue as to what is involved. Buy from someone that you can trust and did the work or paid to have work done and he KNOWS what was done!!!!!! Know what you are paying for!!! I know of perfect work that the little guy does and I know if lipsick on a pig the big guy does!
And a guy can hand you a box of receipts but that has nothing to do really as to what a car is worth. It shows what he spent. What he paid "someone"!
Its hard!!!
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
With the number of casual tire kickers and doofuses (doofi?) out there just sending silly Emails, I can sorta understand someone not wanting to pull it out of storage just to take pics for someone who may not be serious...
That said, I also can't understand someone putting a car into storage and THEN listing it for sale- makes no sense.
The stereo was likely done by someone other than the painter. The screw hose clamps don't degrade the car or the quality of mechanical work. Just means they were not going for an original resto.
Needs to be looked at by someone that knows old cars.
You never know who is calling on your car, if they want more info or photos get it to them. Piss them off and they lose your number.
Needs to be looked at by someone that knows old cars.
You never know who is calling on your car, if they want more info or photos get it to them. Piss them off and they lose your number.
People that are serious about buying or selling will be glad to exchange info on their car, the build,who built it, all the info, all the details, the good and not so good....give out their cells and actually have in depth conversations,,,,NOT text. Many people are too inexperienced to even ask the right questions. Too many buyers do not want to give info.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Right- it wasn't my intention to degrade those points, just to say that it wasn't the work of a big dollar resto shop, as some were alluding to. The functionality is there, just not the "correctness" that one would expect in a car in the upper 20s. At that price point it should be bordering on something special.
brentwasham
Well-Known Member
So much good advice here, really does make your head spin. One very little, but I think effective tip, Harbor Freight has a small telescoping magnet (not the bigger one) that is weak enough to let go on relatively thin bondo'ed areas. Much cheaper than a paint gauge. Check the underside of right rear quarter panel, and just above bottom first, then the other side, then the front fender "drops" along bottom and sides and finally rocker panels and lower doors. You have to get under and visually inspect floor pans, and can inspect spare tire pan from the top but a light underneath is helpful to highlight the pinholes. These are all the common areas that tell you how much car was outside in the elements. Could still be structurally sound but for this much money you need good quality, not perfection, all over. Sounds like a fun trip to me, take your ear buds and playlist, or listen to a good podcast on the trip. You will definitely gain some experience from the visit.
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