descent converter on the cheap?

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7dart0

7dart0

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looking for a descent torque converter to get my dart project going. it will have a 87 360 out of a dodge ramcharger w/904 trans. the trans is a low mileage unit i bought used with a reverse manual valvebody.

tom
 
You can get a stock one cheap dont waste your time with a used one.
 
Kevin D. said:
No such thing,Sorry Kevin.
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tekslk said:
You can get a stock one cheap dont waste your time with a used one.
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I agree with both. The torque converter is the single most ignored part of a performance improvement by most. So many guys buy a cheap converter and they can slip A LOT giving up a lot of performance and then they wonder why their car doesn't run like they think it should.

What's the application, maybe we can suggest what'll work ok that don't break the bank.
 
7dart0 said:
looking for a descent torque converter to get my dart project going. it will have a 87 360 out of a dodge ramcharger w/904 trans. the trans is a low mileage unit i bought used with a reverse manual valvebody.

tom
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Need more information than you've given Tom. Let us know what engine mods have been done, axle ratio etc. If the unit is basically stock, and the dart is a driver, a stock converter might work just fine for you.
 
360 stock bore, edelbrock rpm intake, edelbrock 750, headers, stock heads.i havent picked a cam for it yet but was looking into a thumpr cam. it will be a summer driver and cruise night car to start with some street night action at the dragstrip. rear gear is 3:23.
 
If I was going to buy a converter it would be custom made. Not an off the shelf converter. I've have read so many great results from using a custom built converter that I would not hesitate to buy one. Even if they are in the $900 range.
 
$900 is too rich for my blood even though i know its an important piece to the puzzle.
 
DACCO here in TN sells some performance TQ And they are the manufacture for "other" brands.
 
Frank Lupo built a great convertor for my 360 Dart fort 495.00. That was a couple of years ago. It might be more now.
 
I am not trying to hijack but seeing you have stock heads and a 904 I want to put the high brain power here to the test. Way back 20+ years ago when I was in high school with a 340 Duster I went looking for a bit higher stall when I put my purpleshaft 292 508" cam in. I was told I should put a slant 6 stall converter in but never did because I was running a 727. Will this work for the OP or are there external balance issues to be concerned with? It might be a low cost option?????

I am running a Coan converter and am very happy with it.
 
Just think of all the times that someone has built their high end restoration and use a "cheap" converter. They spend time, money, and detailed processes on the engine, trans, and rear end but drop the ball on the converter. When they could had a converter that was built in a fashion that when leaving out from a red light it would hard to tell it had a stall converter.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Frank Lupo built a great convertor for my 360 Dart fort 495.00. That was a couple of years ago. It might be more now.
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I'll 2nd this recommendation! http://dynamicconverters.com/aboutus.htm They aren't the cheapest...but, Frank knows his stuff! I bought a 3,500 stall 9.5" converter for a 727. It was in a '66 Valiant running a 340 (284/284 purple shaft). At first I was worried about a 3,500 stall on the street but, he assured me that it would stall closer to 2,300-2,400 if I wasn't full throttle off the line. He was spot on and I'll be darned if that car didn't get 19mpg at 75mph. I had planned to put 3.23 gears in it but, living out west, I left the 2.96 gears in it and it still left great off the line....not to mention I could cruise at the 75mph speed limit out there! If I ever build another automatic car, Frank has got my business again! Also, keep in mind, this was after I had wasted a couple hundred on a Mopar Performance torque converter...JUNK compared to Frank's! Save up and do it right the first time. :)
 
2 places I see people all ways go cheap, Converters and Headers. I dont understand it. Thousands of dollars spent on the rest of the car and then use a $200 converter that slips on the top end and a set of headers you have to beat in with a hammer.
 
Dynamic converters there converter has been awesome worth every penny picked up almost 3 tenths over a good 3500 converter and drives on the street like a kitten , even dropped a little rpm while at cruising speed
 
AdamR said:
2 places I see people all ways go cheap, Converters and Headers. I dont understand it. Thousands of dollars spent on the rest of the car and then use a $200 converter that slips on the top end and a set of headers you have to beat in with a hammer.
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Folks will spend thousands on body/paint, 2k on wheels & tires etc. yet ***** about the money it takes for some truly important things. Me no comprehend....
 
PTC all the way. I was researching converters a few years back and the dynamics were having issues with the hubs cracking.
 
1966DDart said:
I'll 2nd this recommendation! http://dynamicconverters.com/aboutus.htm They aren't the cheapest...but, Frank knows his stuff! I bought a 3,500 stall 9.5" converter for a 727. It was in a '66 Valiant running a 340 (284/284 purple shaft). At first I was worried about a 3,500 stall on the street but, he assured me that it would stall closer to 2,300-2,400 if I wasn't full throttle off the line. He was spot on and I'll be darned if that car didn't get 19mpg at 75mph. I had planned to put 3.23 gears in it but, living out west, I left the 2.96 gears in it and it still left great off the line....not to mention I could cruise at the 75mph speed limit out there! If I ever build another automatic car, Frank has got my business again! Also, keep in mind, this was after I had wasted a couple hundred on a Mopar Performance torque converter...JUNK compared to Frank's! Save up and do it right the first time. :)
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I have a dynamic 9.5" 4500 rpm stall in my 383 dart. best money i spent. I think it cost me $600. cruises at 2900 rpm @ 60 mph. thats with 4.10 rear gears and 28.5 tall tires. it hits hard too.
 
7dart0 said:
360 stock bore, edelbrock rpm intake, edelbrock 750, headers, stock heads.i havent picked a cam for it yet but was looking into a thumpr cam. it will be a summer driver and cruise night car to start with some street night action at the dragstrip. rear gear is 3:23.
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With the combination you have now, there is not need for anything other than a stock converter. With a new camshaft there might be need for a higher stall, but the spec sheet supplied with the cam will give you recommendations. As a driver, you might want to check out www.ringpinion.com and see the rpm your engine will be turning over at a given MPH. If at 60MPH for instance, if your engine/axle/tire combination is only turning over at 2600 rpm, a converter that stalls in the 3000 to 3500 rpm range is slipping and sliding, creating a bunch of unwanted heat and burning far too much 3.50+ per gallon gas.

Match whatever converter you buy TO YOUR ENGINE/AXLE/TIREcombination you have and you'll be a happy camper. A properly applied high stall is a great $$ investment, a poorly applied high stall isn't.

If you send me a pm, along with your home email, I'll send you the spec sheet we used at my old employers that was used when someone ordered a high stall.
 
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