Destroked Small Block?

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replicaracer43 said:
I guess it becomes a matter of how light can the car be built, I'm not sure on that, but 2040 is pretty light, not sure how much lighter is possible on his gasser build
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Im pretty sure car has to weigh a minimum of 2400 lbs
Have not looked at rules in a while
I will double check tonight pretty sure its 2400 lbs min though.
 
Oh! I know have a guide before I did a single piece of math!

So you would have to add 6lbs. of weight for every cube over the likityand this guy is at 388 cubes?

Jeez, this guy basically did 85% of your homework for you. Awesome!

You could come under the weight with a 3.58 (360) strike crank into the 340 & at a .030 over bored cylinder be at 372/373 cubes.

OR

Stroke the 340 to over 400 cubes and weight in the trunk.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Oh! I know have a guide before I did a single piece of math!

So you would have to add 6lbs. of weight for every cube over the likityand this guy is at 388 cubes?

Jeez, this guy basically did 85% of your homework for you. Awesome!

You could come under the weight with a 3.58 (360) strike crank into the 340 & at a .030 over bored cylinder be at 372/373 cubes.

OR

Stroke the 340 to over 400 cubes and weight in the trunk.
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Yes he helped me out with wondering roughly how much my car will turn out weighing.
 
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so @2400 la 400 cu n for A 300 cu in for B
to get max power out of a 400 would take some serious heads well 300 would too
340- destroked- what about long aluminum rods
 
Wyrmrider said:
so @2400 la 400 cu n for A 300 cu in for B
to get max power out of a 400 would take some serious heads well 300 would too
340- destroked- what about long aluminum rods
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Consider this 4 bolt main 1970 318 with hardblock and 3.97 bore or 60 over with 3.20 stroke and lite rods and pistons and about 12.5.1 compression! !!!
 
1Badcolt said:
Consider this 4 bolt main 1970 318 with hardblock and 3.97 bore or 60 over with 3.20 stroke and lite rods and pistons and about 12.5.1 compression! !!!
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The ONLY 318 4 bolt block is an X block. Did you find one? If so, lucky you.

If it's just a 318 someone scabbed 4 bolt caps on run from it. If you RPm it much it will pull the main webs out.
 
yellow rose said:
The ONLY 318 4 bolt block is an X block. Did you find one? If so, lucky you.

If it's just a 318 someone scabbed 4 bolt caps on run from it. If you RPm it much it will pull the main webs out.
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Sorry didnt find one was going to get Milodon set and have them prepped at machine shop.
 
The best you can do is simply have excellent machining and use studs for high HP applications.
If you brake caps or have cap related problems then you need a race block.
 
rumblefish360 said:
The best you can do is simply have excellent machining and use studs for high HP applications.
If you brake caps or have cap related problems then you need a race block.
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Amen - I can have that done we have a very good machine shop south of Atlanta .
 
1Badcolt said:
Whats solution straps like olds use or just use aftermarket 2 bolt caps with aftermarket studs ??
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If using factory caps detail them. By that I mean go over them with a ScotchBrite pad on a right angle grinder. Smooth out the corners and edges to eliminate stress risers.
 
skrews said:
If using factory caps detail them. By that I mean go over them with a ScotchBrite pad on a right angle grinder. Smooth out the corners and edges to eliminate stress risers.
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10-4 thank you - if warranted I could buy aftermarket ductile iron or such to replace stock ones
Realistically im shooting for 480 to 540 hp with my build .
 
1Badcolt said:
Yep if I fall in the middle I will be content !
Lite weight Henry J with a 4 speed = Major fun.
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What kind of ET are you going to need to run to be competitive? I understand they don't use et clocks, but you must have a idea what ballpark you need to be in
 
Just to throw in a little interesting tidbit I got from my IC engines textbook, power output can be calculated based on RPM, mean effective pressure, and piston area ONLY (bore), while torque is calculated based on mean effective pressure and total cylinder volume (bore AND stroke). Let that marinate for a minute lol...
 
MOPEkidD-3 said:
Just to throw in a little interesting tidbit I got from my IC engines textbook, power output can be calculated based on RPM, mean effective pressure, and piston area ONLY (bore), while torque is calculated based on mean effective pressure and total cylinder volume (bore AND stroke). Let that marinate for a minute lol...
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Yep yep yep yep yep. Stoke length doesn't affect power. It changes the RPM range. Big bores make power.

Never use a longer stroke than you need to make RPM and use the biggest bore you can get.
 
yellow rose said:
Yep yep yep yep yep. Stoke length doesn't affect power. It changes the RPM range. Big bores make power.

Never use a longer stroke than you need to make RPM and use the biggest bore you can get.
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Perfect post
 
MOPEkidD-3 said:
Just to throw in a little interesting tidbit I got from my IC engines textbook, power output can be calculated based on RPM, mean effective pressure, and piston area ONLY (bore), while torque is calculated based on mean effective pressure and total cylinder volume (bore AND stroke). Let that marinate for a minute lol...
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Torque is a snapshot of one revolution and HP is all the revolutions added up.
 
And it is still summer time.....winter is going to be painful for the snow bound folks.
 
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273 said:
Torque is a snapshot of one revolution and HP is all the revolutions added up.
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Torque is actually measured. Horsepower is calculated. With a stroker, if nothing else is changed in an engine, the horsepower stays the same but peaks 500 rpm lower whereas the torque increases by about 10%.
 
toolmanmike said:
Torque is actually measured. Horsepower is calculated. With a stroker, if nothing else is changed in an engine, the horsepower stays the same but peaks 500 rpm lower whereas the torque increases by about 10%.
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Ok then Torque is basically the measurement of one revolution and Hp is the calculation of them altogether (rpm) better :)
 
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