Direct Connection Ducktail spoiler mounting ideas

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go-fish

go-fish

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I’ve finally decided to dedicate some time to mounting my Direct Connection spoiler.
Several ideas have floated around and not drilling holes in my deck lid is a goal. If I could get the spoiler dead nuts perfect I would bolt it on.
So, the idea I’m going with for now is magnetic application. I had several Horrible Fright magnets to employ. The base is a deck lid from a fellow FABO member.
I will be skinning the base and place the magnets in the skin. Coat the bottom side of the skin or apply double-sided tape, neoprene, silicone, etc.
It’s all baby steps here. The spoiler is pretty bad. It’s warped and bowed. I’m thinking about attaching the corners and working the fiberglass. I have never messed with fiberglass before so this could take months.
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I'm not sure if you want to magnetize the deck lid, you might end up with small metal dust particles building up over time when driving around and may cause scratches when trying to remove. Maybe install some clear bra material on the deck lid with a larger area than spoiler to protect the paint?
 
The problem with magnets is the surface area. You have a fairly large surface area for aerodynamic forces, and a pretty small surface area for the magnets.

You’d be better off with something like 3m adhesive tape. The psi for the bond is lower, but the surface area is higher. You could build it up the backside of the spoiler to have a flat surface to mount the tape to so there’s good adhesion.
 
72bluNblu said:
You could build it up the backside of the spoiler to have a flat surface to mount the tape to so there’s good adhesion.
Click to expand...

Before I proceed with any cutting or drilling I am going to make a couple of *plugs*? IDK what it's called exactly but basically lay some fiberglass shapes/profiles of the deck lid. One can be bonded to the underside to be used w/o the donor deck lid/metal base idea. That way I would use 3M double-sided adhesive tape, or like, and just make the fasteners ornamental.
With the metal base idea I would be using fasteners McMaster-Carr
I would also cut the trunk skin and use short fasteners to attach the spoiler for a rigid base, then fiberglass a base plug to cover the metal. It would be a flat, matching profile with the painted deck lid for a superior bond.
The magnet strength isn't a concern for me. I am confident that with the arrangement I have pictured (2 round, 2 bars) would hold. The concern would be magnetizing the trunk. FOr this I would use a type of Ultra High Molecular weight hydrophobic sheet for the painted. This would reduce fastener to paint interference.
I wish I had two spoilers and two donor deck lids. I would do a competition to see which one to use and also have spare.
 
More products I'm researching:
https://www.amazon.com/Dualplex-Neoprene-Adhesive-Perfect-Cosplay/dp/B07WVQF1DF?tag=fabo03-20

https://www.amazon.com/Mounting-Waterproof-Adhesive-Fastener-Replace/dp/B0BQYL3W95?tag=fabo03-20

Whoops, we couldn't find that.

Please suggest anything that is superior in bonding.

As for sequence of events:
Get a fiberglass starter kit and learn.
Make a couple "plugs"? off of the donor trunk to get a flat base.
Temp. attach good areas of the spoiler to trunk and rework/shape the bad areas.
 
Last edited:
From a couple of those pics....is it upside down?

The gap looks like it would conform better the other way.

If you are imbedding magnets into the deck lid.....why not just bolt the spoiler on?
 
YY1 said:
From a couple of those pics....is it upside down?
Click to expand...
Not upside down. There is a slight curve in the edge of the trunk lid and the spoiler is shaped for that on the rear edge. The front edge is straight.
On the magnets, I would use the trunk skin you see in the pics to use as a metal base . That would then mount to my painted trunk with magnets imbedded in the spoiler base (donor trunk lid). The skin will, now spoiler base, would be perfectly contoured for a good double sided adhesive too.
 
 
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