Distributor rotor and cap

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Dan the man

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Does anyone know if there is a distributor rotor that has a longer tip? I was told that echlin rotors for the sbm has a 0.60" longer tip than a stock rotor.The factory increased the gap between the rotor and cap for emission reason is what I was told. I'm wanting to be able to run a higher voltage coil and control box so I can open up the plug gap from 0.035" to 0.055". Is it true that a wider plug gap helps the air / fuel mixture to burn better. I'm open to anyone's advice and or experience as I'm new to the improving the ignition system. Also is mopars orange box a good idea
 
67Dart273 said:
Yes, no, maybe. Their was, and I doubt you will find one.......they are not produced currently.
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Should I even worry about the gap between the rotor and cap, is it even that important since I'm not building a high performance engine?
 
Well if you wade through some of all that, there ARE issues with less than perfectly made caps (and I assume worn or otherwise less than perfect shaft play/ shaft runout) with the rotor hitting the cap, ------because it is longer

I would not worry about it. You can tell just by looking, look for carbon tracking and other damage an debri inside the cap and around the rotor.
 
67Dart273 said:
Well if you wade through some of all that, there ARE issues with less than perfectly made caps (and I assume worn or otherwise less than perfect shaft play/ shaft runout) with the rotor hitting the cap, ------because it is longer

I would not worry about it. You can tell just by looking, look for carbon tracking and other damage an debri inside the cap and around the rotor.
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Thanks. Are those distributor shaft thrust bushings worth using? I understand that with the bushing installed on the distributor shaft that you put a 0.010" feeler gauge between the bushing and oil pump drive and tighten down the screw and your done
 
I have extended the rotor tip by soldering a length of copper wire to it. Didn't notice any performance difference.
 
Instead of looking at cap/rotor clearance which is still a big part of the picture //more energy from the coil is good. But what helped me was a good set of plug wires and some will say they are VOO+DOO but a set of E3 plugs WOKE My car UP !!!!! A NOTICEABLE difference... could be the combination BUT I AM HAPPY

mildly warmed over 340/auto/factory avs carb/pertronix conversation on the dual point prestolite with their matching coil
 
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Contact @halifaxhops and he will set you up with a quality cap and rotor that will be correct and last for years. I don't run any newly made parts in either of my small blocks. NOS (old) is the only way to go.
 
Do not trust those shaft "stabillizers" They are the same exact shaft collar you can buy at a hardware store and the set screw is not a good idea in a motor. There was a older insert to the mopar rotors I have to find to use dialetric compound on the rotor tip, if the bushings in the distributor are ok and the shaft not bent a quality cap and rotor will be fine with no adverse effects. Also run from the new Mopar LICENSED orange boxes they faill way to often. Look in the how to area how to tell a real box from a fake box.
 
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climax-socket-head-cap-screws-c-050-s-64_300.jpg


Climax 1/2 in. Bore Zinc-Plated Mild Steel Set Screw Collar-C-050 - The Home Depot
 
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