Do I need a solid lifter?

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spd691

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Need more help here. I'm installing a Howards hydraulic Ratter cam in my 340. I need to check my valve to piston clearance and get my pushrod length figured out. I have decked the block for finish so I could use SM closed chamber aluminum heads and Crane roller rockers that came with the engine. The pistons have been machined to zero deck height and I am using .040-.045 head gaskets with L-2316 thirty over pistons. Short of buying 1 solid lifter to check this does anyone have another idea? The Howards lifter has a seat height of 1.892. The closest I can find on a mechanical lifter is a comp cam solid with a 1.880, close enough. I know pushrods can be had in .050 increments. I just don't want to wait another week and spend $70.00 on a one time use lifter.
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Ask your machine shop to loan you a lifter. That's what I did when I checked my pushrod length in a 302 that I did years ago. I wouldn't think that he would have a problem helping you out.
 
Use a light checking spring.
I have them. I still need a firm lifter for accurate lift. Yes, I could use a dial indicator on the retainer, but still need accurate lift.
 
You could pull one of your hydraulic lifters apart and shim it solid for your checks
This right here. Disassemble a hydraulic and shim it up solid. Washers or a slug of aluminum works well.
 
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I would just buy the tool that fits the lifter bore. Dead nuts accurate.
 
You could pull one of your hydraulic lifters apart and shim it solid for your checks
Yea. I think I will give that a shot. I really didnt want to disassemble the lifter but I think I will.
 
I used a solid lift since I had a few spares. I’m glad I did because Disassembling a Hyd lifter for this is just a LIA, though very minor, it’s still a PIA, really more annoying, LMAO!
 
Why are you balking at buying the tool? How much money does the picture in your original post represent and you're going to balk at another 100 bucks or a little less for a tool that can be reused over and over......or even resold? Talk about makin no sense.
 
Why are you balking at buying the tool? How much money does the picture in your original post represent and you're going to balk at another 100 bucks or a little less for a tool that can be reused over and over......or even resold? Talk about makin no sense.
Forget what site you are on?
 
Why are you balking at buying the tool? How much money does the picture in your original post represent and you're going to balk at another 100 bucks or a little less for a tool that can be reused over and over......or even resold? Talk about makin no sense.
I am confused as to how that tool would help my situation with regard to checking valve to piston clearance and pushrod length I can measure the cam lobe lift with a mag. base dial indicator. I have already measured the cam and checked the intake centerline. Now that that is set I need to make sure no contact is made.
 
I am confused as to how that tool would help my situation with regard to checking valve to piston clearance and pushrod length I can measure the cam lobe lift with a mag. base dial indicator. I have already measured the cam and checked the intake centerline. Now that that is set I need to make sure no contact is made.
Well, admittedly, it won't do THAT, but it is the most accurate way to degree the camshaft. IMO, you won't come anywhere near valve to piston contact. Remember, it's the duration that makes it happen, not the lift. It's the WHEN, not the how much. Those pistons have pretty generous valve reliefs. Even still, you really can't be too careful. That's a lot of money you have tied up.
 
Can’t you just set up the cylinder, adjust the lifter until it bottoms out the lifter and use the clay method. Put the lifter under spring pressure and put a dial ind on the retainer. When it stops collapsing set zero lash.
 
As to pushrod length, what type of retainer does the lifter have? Cheap wire or sturdy snap ring? Look to see if the cup is against the snap ring. If it is, then adjust it as normal with an adjustable pushrod and measure it. Wire retainer, I would go deeper to keep the cup away from the wire retainer.
 
Yea. I think I will give that a shot. I really didnt want to disassemble the lifter but I think I will.
It’s easy, very easy in fact. And if more people disassembled lifters and cleaned them when new, I bet we’d have a lot less cam failures reported.
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You do not need to pull the c/valve apart. Just find a spacer [ an old bolt cut to size or whatever ] to put under the p'rod seat.
 
You do not need to pull the c/valve apart. Just find a spacer [ an old bolt cut to size or whatever ] to put under the p'rod seat.
I took out the spring and check valve found a spacer that fit right in perfectly. Working it now.
 
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